Do you have your system on its own dedicated ring on the house electrical supply?

S3 posted:

Quote received. It’s £50 more to have this done with “SY cable” verses the “standard” 10mm cable.

Should I opt for this SY cable or stick with the standard? 

I guess it can’t do any harm going with the SY but I’m also conscious that no one here (that I’m aware of) has used it so may be safer to stick with the standard.

Regards

David

David,

I have 4mm SY running in conduit round the outside to its entry point behind the right hand of my brawn brain stack. It was put in before I joined the forum on the recommendation of an electrical contractor known to my dealer. I have a block of 5 daisy chained unswitched Crabtree double sockets. No Henley block because the electrician said it would require isolation back at the meter box, and no dedicated CU for that reason. 

No point me dwelling on whether I should have used 10mm etc. The system sounds really good, and I haven’t had the problems another member (Mark?) had with the 10mm. I experimented with the order I plug the boxes in. The Power Supplies are nearest the entry and the sources furthest away. I didn’t like Powerlines, although I have PL Lites on the SuperCap DR and NAPSC.

Like Popeye the electrician said my earth was incredible low impedance.

Phil

Chaps - another quick question. I’ve (finally) got an electrician coming to quote on Friday. I’m going the separate CU, single 10mm radial to a un-switched double socket route - simple enough. For the separate CU, did you have it fitted with just a double pole isolator and MCB (no RCD) and if so, did you have the socket(s) labelled to indicate they were non RCD protected ?

James

 

 

james n posted:

Chaps - another quick question. I’ve (finally) got an electrician coming to quote on Friday. I’m going the separate CU, single 10mm radial to a un-switched double socket route - simple enough. For the separate CU, did you have it fitted with just a double pole isolator and MCB (no RCD) and if so, did you have the socket(s) labelled to indicate they were non RCD protected ?

James, I bought a small MK consumer unit. It’s a 4-way, with a DP switch that takes up 2, leaving 2 free ways. I put 2 MCBs in these as I was putting 2 radials in different rooms. Ask him to fit Type C MCBs - he may well say that you should label the sockets to comply with the regs. 

Popeye, thank you for starting this thread. My spur was installed about fifteen years ago, with what I’ve always called a ‘50 amp breaker’. With all this talk of type B, type C, RCD and MCB I convinced myself I probably had the wrong thing. I finally plucked up courage to take a look earlier, and what do you know, it’s a type C. Hurrah. In my research I’ve also discovered that they types refer to how easily they blow, and that the mysterious MCB is simply the acronym for miniature circuit breaker. Now I can advise others to use a Type C MCB, rather than just a ‘breaker’. 

When the second consumer unit was installed, its Earth was connected back to the main house consumer unit. When that was replaced a couple of years ago I asked for the earth from the hifi consumer unit to be taken back directly to the meter rather than going via the other consumer unit or the Henley block. It seemed to make the backgrounds a bit blacker and quieter, but I may be deluding myself. Anyway, it’s worth doing, if only for peace of mind. 

Hungryhalibut posted:

I’ve not done that in all those fifteen years, though I see why it’s a good idea. Presumably one would turn the system off first? 

Yes, close down in the normal orderly fashion - if the test works as it should the power to the circuit should be cut just like throwing the master switch. And if it doesn’t work it needs replacing!

Happy Listener posted:

Also worth pointing out that you should test these 'breakers' (as HH defines) at least every 12m i.e. press the test button and then reset them - ideally more frequently.

MCBs don't have a test button - are you thinking of RCDs? Naim suggest that you avoid the use of RCDs where local regulations permit.

Hungryhalibut posted:

With all this talk of type B, type C, RCD and MCB I convinced myself I probably had the wrong thing. I finally plucked up courage to take a look earlier, and what do you know, it’s a type C. Hurrah. In my research I’ve also discovered that they types refer to how easily they blow, and that the mysterious MCB is simply the acronym for miniature circuit breaker. Now I can advise others to use a Type C MCB, rather than just a ‘breaker’. 

I started going on about using Type C MCBs on these threads after Steve Hopkins recommended it to me last year. Since putting them on my dedicated mains, it hasn't tripped once, whereas on my old supply, switching the power amp would trip the Type B  MCB more often than not.

Well the Electrician didn't think i was totally bonkers. Once i showed him the schematic i'd drawn up and explained why i wanted a double socket connected to a dedicate CU by a cable more usually found feeding a power shower or cooker, just to power some hi-fi kit he understood.... Apart from the non RCD request (wants to re-check the regs due to liability) his only other concern was the depth of the back box needed to form the 10mm ends into the socket - he's going to quote for 6mm run and a 10mm and let me decide. 6mm should be more than adequate given that it'll be a maximum of 3 pieces of equipment likely to run off this new socket but i'll see what he comes back with and then decide. 

James

 

Hungryhalibut posted:

Go for the 10mm, even if he pushes you towards the 6. 

With 10mm do you just have a single socket (or double socket anyway) I’m trying to imagine getting two 10mm cables into the terminals of a 13amp wall plug and seems an impossible ask...

The deepest back box you can get is 47mm, and it's easier to work with 6mm, but an electrician will be used to working with 10mm, or even 16mm, for cookers and showers, so it shouldn't really be a problem. If you want to instal more than one double socket, it gets more difficult. It's not impossible to get two pairs of 10mm T&E into a socket in order to do this, but it is really quite awkward. My electrician suggested, as an alternative, to split the 10mm into two at a Henley block just before the sockets, as Popeye mentions above, and this has worked well for me. 

The advantage of the Henly Block is that it is designed to take heavier cables, and they can be inserted and tightened with ease, whereas a socket is really only intended for use with 2.5mm cables. The block does mean a break in the continuous copper cable compared to a direct connection to one double socket, but if you need more than one double, perhaps it's better to have the break here than at the first of two sockets. 

S3 posted:

That’s exactly what I’m having done. 10mm SY cable to a Henly box and then three double MK unswitched sockets from there. I’m told it is exactly the same as having 10mm cable straight to the socket.

For those who have not seen all the thread, it has an earth of a similar diameter. Other tips about having a really good earth apply. It may be worth checking the earth on the existing system before the work starts. 

Phil

Matty.s posted:

Yet again the picture issue arises.I was hoping the pictures would be embedded in the thread not just the links.Not sure what I have done.

Matty

Right click on the image, select 'copy image location'.

Click the mountain (insert/edit image) icon, paste the image location info. into 'source', click OK.

 

Alba1320 posted:
Matty.s posted:

Yet again the picture issue arises.I was hoping the pictures would be embedded in the thread not just the links.Not sure what I have done.

Matty

Right click on the image, select 'copy image location'.

Click the mountain (insert/edit image) icon, paste the image location info. into 'source', click OK.

 

Maybe because I'm using my iPhone but I have no mountain option.I have done this successfully before but i can't remember what I done.Help was also needed then.

Thanks

Matty.s posted:
Alba1320 posted:
Matty.s posted:

Yet again the picture issue arises.I was hoping the pictures would be embedded in the thread not just the links.Not sure what I have done.

Matty

Right click on the image, select 'copy image location'.

Click the mountain (insert/edit image) icon, paste the image location info. into 'source', click OK.

Maybe because I'm using my iPhone but I have no mountain option.I have done this successfully before but i can't remember what I done.Help was also needed then.

Thanks

I don't know anything about IPhones, I'm afraid, but, for me, It's in the row of icons at the top of where you post your message, 4th one after 'B'.

Matty.s posted:

Maybe because I'm using my iPhone but I have no mountain option.I have done this successfully before but i can't remember what I done.Help was also needed then.

It's only visible in landscape view, turn your phone sideways and it will magically appear!

ChrisSU posted:
Matty.s posted:

Maybe because I'm using my iPhone but I have no mountain option.I have done this successfully before but i can't remember what I done.Help was also needed then.

It's only visible in landscape view, turn your phone sideways and it will magically appear!

ChrisSU,

thanks for the suggestion but the option still doesn't show on my iphone (5se).I can see the options on my iPad so I must of used that when I posted pictures in the system pics thread.Next time I will use the iPad and hopefully that will work.

Matty

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