Recapping OLD NAC32

Posted by: Hon on 28 May 2001

I take the lid off my very old NAC32 and found that all the maroon colour electrolytic caps have been leaking some kind of fluid (electrolyte?) and left some brown deposit on the case. I know old electrolytic caps don't last forever so I took all the boards out and replace all the caps with some Elna Cerafine 35V 47uF caps in bright red. I don't use my turntable much so I only use Dubilier caps for the 4 phono boards.

What a difference the new caps can make to the sound! The high frequency is a lot clearer and the midrange is a lot clearer. The bass is still not as good as I like through my old bolt on case 250. I will try to recap the 250 with Aerovox 33000uF when I get some spare time later.

Happy listening.

Regards
Ho

Posted on: 28 May 2001 by Hon
Hi Paul

Thanks for your tips. My 32 pre is really really old and the old caps were definitely no good. I usually don't touch the amps if they are more expensive. However my 32 is of no commercial value that I just want to keep it going before I can afford to upgrade to a better pre amp.

There must be hundreds of these old 32 out there which require re-capping, so I thought I would share my experience with other people.

Regards
Hon

Posted on: 29 May 2001 by Andrew L. Weekes
Hon,

I recently bought a very old NAC42XO, that was, like your 32, in dire need of attention.

The maroon colour electrolytics are probably the roederstein plastic bodied type, I'm not sure they're available any more. Mine hadn't leaked and I've still got a couple in there as tantalum relacements are like rocking horse manure, at present.

I viewed the 42 in the same way you do your 32, and rebuilt the entire crossover and preamp board replacing the early carbon resistors for the metal film types used in current amps.

Replacing the tantalum coupling capacitors and the Phillips decoupling capacitors made a massive difference to the sound of the pre. In particular the 47u axial caps used for power supply decoupling of the analogue stages made a huge difference.

It may not sound as good as a Naim recap, but it definitely sounds a lot better than when I bought it, and the cost of this work with Naim would have made the pre-amp uneconomic. It's now being used daily as the front end for a active system in our bedroom and it sounds great on the front of a pair of NAP110's.

I changed the PSU reservoir caps in both 110's as well, and this provided a very worthwhile improvement for the money, I haven't recapped the amp boards yet, owing to the availability problem of decent tantalums, particularly in larger values.

The only thing I would say is if ever you sell it be honest with the next owner, it's only fair. It makes no difference providing you fit suitably rated components and do the work to a high standard, and the next owner would have had to recap anyway.

Andy.

P.S. I've never done any of this to my main system, I always have Naim do any work there, but the second system was very inexpensive and consequently there's little to lose, and a lot to gain. Having the main system as a sonic reference is massively useful too.

Andrew L. Weekes
alweekes@audiophile.com

Posted on: 30 May 2001 by Eric Barry
How do you tell the old resistors from the metal film ones? When did they switch?

--Eric

Posted on: 30 May 2001 by Andrew L. Weekes
Eric,

The carbon resistors have a different colour coating, under the coloured bands that indicate the resistor value.

The carbon ones in mine had the classic beige tint, common to most carbon types.

I don't know when they switched, but it was very early on (the 42XO is very old - it's not even mentioned in the Naim history). Changing them made much less difference than the recap - I wouldn't waste your time, but I was bored wink

The Naim current spec are either light green (5% tolerance) or a drab olive colour (1% - used only in critical areas)

They're BC components (formerly Philips) devices.

Andy

Andrew L. Weekes
alweekes@audiophile.com

Posted on: 31 May 2001 by Hon
Hi Andy

Glad to hear that you share the same experience with your old Naim amps. My 32/250 are so old that they don't worth much at all, re-selling is not that feasible since I doubt if anyone will buy them. Hence renewal of the out of spec components by myself is a sensible route to enjoy the Naim experience.

The volume and balance pots of the 32 are making a noise when they are turned, so I will replaced the volume pot with something from Alps or Panasonic. I never use the balance pot, so I will bypass it completely. I have also taken out one of the two pairs of phono boards and wire the phono socket directly to the input, making the RCA phono sockets a "straight line" input. In this way, I can use the phono sockets as another source input.

I haven't touched the 250 yet, but the amp would definitely benefit from a service. I intend to renew the two reservoir caps first with standard industrial type Aerovox of the same dimension. I haven't decided the capacitance yet, most probably go for 22000 or 33000 uF. I will check the 250 amp and regulator boards to see if any old caps requiring attention.

What reservoir caps have you used for your 110?

Regards
Hon

Posted on: 31 May 2001 by Andrew L. Weekes
Hon,

quote:
Glad to hear that you share the same experience with your old Naim amps. My 32/250 are so old that they don't worth much at all, re-selling is not that feasible since I doubt if anyone will buy them. Hence renewal of the out of spec components by myself is a sensible route to enjoy the Naim experience.

My sentiments exactly, I have a full complement of 5 series kit I'd never dream of touching, but the older stuff upstairs is an interesting educational tool, that I can enjoy listening to into the bargain. I bought it for two reasons, to allow me to experiment with active Linn Kans, and to listen to some of the fantastic, late night, radio broadcasts available in the UK.

Bear in mind though that even old Naim kit can be brought up to current spec by Naim, particularly the 250, so there would be plenty of people willing to buy it at the right price. Also since we are not privy to the internal calibration details of the amps (e.g. bias current) these parameters could drift and affect sound. Fiddling with this setting could lead to problems if not careful (thermal runaway).

quote:
The volume and balance pots of the 32 are making a noise when they are turned, so I will replaced the volume pot with something from Alps or Panasonic. I never use the balance pot, so I will bypass it completely. I have also taken out one of the two pairs of phono boards and wire the phono socket directly to the input, making the RCA phono sockets a "straight line" input. In this way, I can use the phono sockets as another source input.

If the volume pot is a carbon type as in my 42XO, it wasn't possible to directly fit an Alps 27mm type directly to the PCB, as the height and spacing from the front panel is wrong (Alps part RK2711120K - 20K log).

It is possible to fit one with careful addition of legs to the pot, then forming them to fit the PCB without stress - a time consuming and difficult task to do to a high standard, but well worth the effort. Replacing just the old volume pot made such a massive transformation to the amp I find it difficult to believe! Channel balance at low levels (the reason for me doing it) is much better also, important for late night listening.

I've also done the mod to the phono inputs - there are genuine Naim link boards available also, to perform the same function.


quote:
I haven't touched the 250 yet, but the amp would definitely benefit from a service. I intend to renew the two reservoir caps first with standard industrial type Aerovox of the same dimension. I haven't decided the capacitance yet, most probably go for 22000 or 33000 uF. I will check the 250 amp and regulator boards to see if any old caps requiring attention.

What reservoir caps have you used for your 110?


There were two types, one for the pre-amp supply (not applicable to 250's) and one for each rail of the amps (three caps total).

I used BHC Aerovox ALT22 series for the pre-amp supply and ALS30 series for the PA supplies. Be wary of increasing capacitance above the original design. It can increase surge currents at switch on, and transformer heating, due to the reduced conduction angle of the rectifiers (I squared R losses). Naim know what they are doing when it comes to power supplies, the new capacitors will have much lower impedance across a wider bandwidth than those you replace - and consequently a significant performance improvement.

The 110 doesn't use screw terminal types normally, but I fitted some heavy duty tags to the existing wiring and then fitted the ALS30 types (which were smaller and required padding to fit the existing capacitor clamp). Future recaps are now a very simple job, requiring just a screwdriver and spanner!

There are other BHC Aerovox types that are the same form factor as the original fit, but these weren't so readily available to me, so I elected to use the ALS30's.

Have fun and be careful!

Andy.

Andrew L. Weekes
alweekes@audiophile.com

[This message was edited by Andrew L. Weekes on THURSDAY 31 May 2001 at 13:37.]