equipment placement again...
Posted by: ken c on 26 March 2004
suggestions please...
i'm now down to 2 racks from 3 -- a mana 2 tier for my lp12 and nat02+prefix's hicap on bottom shelf, and the rest of the naim electronics on isoblue 4tier as follows:
nac252/supercap/geddon/250-2
i found the burndy quite awkward to manipulate give that the supercap is just below the 252 -- had to bend it sideways to eat some its length, if you see what i mean. of course, i pro'lly should have put the supercap lower down, but actually this pro'lly wouldnt make much diff -- the cable is still quite long and still have to "manipulate" it away from back wall while not putting too much stress on the burndy connectors as discussed in some thread at length.
what i want to know from people who have a similar single rack installation are some ideas on how to "dress" the burndy for an effective (and hopefully neat) installation.
don't all speak at once now, OK...
enjoy...
ken
i'm now down to 2 racks from 3 -- a mana 2 tier for my lp12 and nat02+prefix's hicap on bottom shelf, and the rest of the naim electronics on isoblue 4tier as follows:
nac252/supercap/geddon/250-2
i found the burndy quite awkward to manipulate give that the supercap is just below the 252 -- had to bend it sideways to eat some its length, if you see what i mean. of course, i pro'lly should have put the supercap lower down, but actually this pro'lly wouldnt make much diff -- the cable is still quite long and still have to "manipulate" it away from back wall while not putting too much stress on the burndy connectors as discussed in some thread at length.
what i want to know from people who have a similar single rack installation are some ideas on how to "dress" the burndy for an effective (and hopefully neat) installation.
don't all speak at once now, OK...
enjoy...
ken
Posted on: 27 March 2004 by ken c
james, many thanks. one of the reasons i have the prefix's hicap directly under the lp12 is that the prefix snaic is so short -- its a struggle to get it to the hicap if it were on the main rack. but next time i need to re-do the install, i will revisit this. for the time being i am happy with the amount of extra room i have created by putting everything on one rack -- better acoustic -- but i really need to do something about dressing the cables -- esp the burndy. god know how much worse it will be when i get the cd player?
many thanks for response...
enjoy
ken
many thanks for response...
enjoy
ken
Posted on: 27 March 2004 by J.N.
Wot no Fraim Ken?
Do that system justice.
Supercap under the 252 is not good at all.
I'm sure you know that you need two stacks of whatever to separate 'brain' and 'brawn'.
The Burndy needs to be teased into position by 'dressing it' by hand as someone else here has suggested.
Not putting torsional strain on the connections is supposed to be well worth while.
Good luck.
Do that system justice.
Supercap under the 252 is not good at all.
I'm sure you know that you need two stacks of whatever to separate 'brain' and 'brawn'.
The Burndy needs to be teased into position by 'dressing it' by hand as someone else here has suggested.
Not putting torsional strain on the connections is supposed to be well worth while.
Good luck.
Posted on: 28 March 2004 by ken c
quote:
Originally posted by J.N.:
Wot no Fraim Ken?
Do that system justice.
Supercap under the 252 is not good at all.
I'm sure you know that you need two stacks of whatever to separate 'brain' and 'brawn'.
...
yes, i know, john... unfortunately, a few "spur of the moment" upgrades have left the bank account unable to sustain a fraim hit. from what you say, (and i agree) i need at least 2 racks anyway. that's what i had till i sold my quadraspire -- now i am left with isoblue supporting everything hence the question. the idea was to free up some space in my office -- the hifi was taking over!!! i am now back to passive (for the time being, with 252, supercap1 and 250MkII). i will slowly work my way up to active as funds allow. its been a bit of a culture shock going back to passive, but the 252/250MKII have been good enough to more or less make me "forget".
we'll see..
thanks for the comments...
enjoy
ken
Posted on: 28 March 2004 by Hawk
Thanks for the rack Ken! you'll be pleased to know its in a good home and already holding up some Naim!! Cheers Neil
Posted on: 28 March 2004 by ken c
neil, y're very welcome. its nice to know that the rack will be supporting the "right" equipment. nice seeing you this morning and best wishes...
enjoy
ken
enjoy
ken
Posted on: 28 March 2004 by dave simpson
Ken,
Here's the relevant thread regarding correct Burndy dressing. If yours has a twisted cable this tip will improve the sound.
Burndy tip
Regarding your question (in Manaland) concerning Mana stage placement relative to the wall..6 inches out from the wall should do it with a soundstage as the array's base. Exceptions might be two racks side-by-side with insufficient distance between them (forcing the Burndy cable to stick out too far behind the rack touching the wall).The Mana amp rack(s) atop the stage(s) should see additional distance from the wall now allowing even the stiffest Burndies freedom from touching the wall.
hth,
dave
[This message was edited by dave simpson on Mon 29 March 2004 at 2:49.]
Here's the relevant thread regarding correct Burndy dressing. If yours has a twisted cable this tip will improve the sound.
Burndy tip
Regarding your question (in Manaland) concerning Mana stage placement relative to the wall..6 inches out from the wall should do it with a soundstage as the array's base. Exceptions might be two racks side-by-side with insufficient distance between them (forcing the Burndy cable to stick out too far behind the rack touching the wall).The Mana amp rack(s) atop the stage(s) should see additional distance from the wall now allowing even the stiffest Burndies freedom from touching the wall.
hth,
dave
[This message was edited by dave simpson on Mon 29 March 2004 at 2:49.]
Posted on: 29 March 2004 by Laurie Saunders
quote:
i have the prefix's hicap directly under the lp12 is that the prefix snaic is so short
I have this problem. It makes siting the hicap for the prefix quite a problem imho
James
quote:
A smaller transformer on the Hicap will put out less magnetic radiation than the whopping one on the Super.
I am just about to start re-installing my racking..much overdue and I am aware of the need for space around powered boxes for this reason. Have you any ideas/done any tests regarding the sorts of distances that the magnetic feild extends?
I always thought that one of the benefits of a toroidal transformer was its low radiated field.
There is clearly much mor going on
Laurie S
Posted on: 29 March 2004 by ken c
dave, many thanks for the response on stage and also the link on burndy dressing...
enjoy..
ken
enjoy..
ken
Posted on: 29 March 2004 by dave simpson
Anytime Ken.....
BTW, regarding "The Ring or Tone" on Mana. Simply set three of the spikes so that an allen wrench will just fit between glass and frame. This is the proper distance between glass and frame. Leaving one of the front spikes untightened, adjust the height of this spike while tapping on the glass (using your knuckle) mid-way between each group of two spikes (left and right front, front-right and rear-right, etc.) while listening for the quality of the tone or ring. When you hit the ideal or perfect tone (described in a moment), you'll find the quality/duration/pitch stays the same at any of the testing mid-points in the last sentence (this is simply an optional test provided by JW years ago). You also might find it beneficial to tap, say two inches in towards the middle from any spike as well (works especially well if this particular piece of Mana doesn't want to produce an absolute clear tone or "pitch")...believe this one came from our Dev(?) If I remeber correctly the instructions say to tap over the spike--a lot of us found this method useless-the quality of tone sucks no matter what the spike height. Anyway...while you're adjusting this spike, notice the range of travel from too high (glass rattles) to too low (glass rattles). Usually the best, strongest, clearest, most ditinct pitch is mid-way between these two points of spike travel. Once you hit this point, you can't mistake it. On an x-tier amp rack the tone (pitch or "ring") can be so distinct and strong it almost overwhelms all other sounds happening in the room at the time (it almost hurts your ears if your head is close to the glass)! You may find one shelf out of three in a 3-tier only resonates this strong (so don't get paranoid if the other two do not...this is normal). When you hit this point or "quality" of tone...you're done! Lock the nut (only an eighth of a turn or so past finger tight!). If this purest-of-tone can't be achieved on a given shelf (or all shelves) simply adjust the spike height for the best tone this particular shelf can achieve.
Sorry to be so wordy...it's easier done than said;-)
regards,
dave
P.S. Only place one piece of glass on a rack at a time during tuning...which means... you can use just one piece of glass to tune each of the levels (or shelves).This does not affect adjustment and it minimizes glass lying all over the floor during a lengthy installation (less chance for the kids to step on it and break it ;-)
[This message was edited by dave simpson on Tue 30 March 2004 at 3:42.]
BTW, regarding "The Ring or Tone" on Mana. Simply set three of the spikes so that an allen wrench will just fit between glass and frame. This is the proper distance between glass and frame. Leaving one of the front spikes untightened, adjust the height of this spike while tapping on the glass (using your knuckle) mid-way between each group of two spikes (left and right front, front-right and rear-right, etc.) while listening for the quality of the tone or ring. When you hit the ideal or perfect tone (described in a moment), you'll find the quality/duration/pitch stays the same at any of the testing mid-points in the last sentence (this is simply an optional test provided by JW years ago). You also might find it beneficial to tap, say two inches in towards the middle from any spike as well (works especially well if this particular piece of Mana doesn't want to produce an absolute clear tone or "pitch")...believe this one came from our Dev(?) If I remeber correctly the instructions say to tap over the spike--a lot of us found this method useless-the quality of tone sucks no matter what the spike height. Anyway...while you're adjusting this spike, notice the range of travel from too high (glass rattles) to too low (glass rattles). Usually the best, strongest, clearest, most ditinct pitch is mid-way between these two points of spike travel. Once you hit this point, you can't mistake it. On an x-tier amp rack the tone (pitch or "ring") can be so distinct and strong it almost overwhelms all other sounds happening in the room at the time (it almost hurts your ears if your head is close to the glass)! You may find one shelf out of three in a 3-tier only resonates this strong (so don't get paranoid if the other two do not...this is normal). When you hit this point or "quality" of tone...you're done! Lock the nut (only an eighth of a turn or so past finger tight!). If this purest-of-tone can't be achieved on a given shelf (or all shelves) simply adjust the spike height for the best tone this particular shelf can achieve.
Sorry to be so wordy...it's easier done than said;-)
regards,
dave
P.S. Only place one piece of glass on a rack at a time during tuning...which means... you can use just one piece of glass to tune each of the levels (or shelves).This does not affect adjustment and it minimizes glass lying all over the floor during a lengthy installation (less chance for the kids to step on it and break it ;-)
[This message was edited by dave simpson on Tue 30 March 2004 at 3:42.]