MTB Chain.

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Originally posted by Tony Lockhart:
My bike will need its chain renewing soo. On the crank there is a sticker saying 'Use only Shimano IG chain'.
Is there just one type of IG? Or are there loads of choices?

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Any chain compatible with the number of rear gears will do. I use a Toyo on one of my bikes as I quite like having a split link.

I think IG is an 8-speed compatible chain. If so then you have various options - Sachs PC58 or 68, Shimano IG70 or IG90. There isn't a huge cost difference (about £9-£14) so it really depends whether or not you want a split link or prefer the Shimano joining system.

Regards
Steve

be prepared to change the casette and chainwheels too.

Oh cool, now we can get into a lengthy discussion on what chain-lube to use!

I still find soaking a new chain in diesel to start with, then thoroughly drying out, and soak-lubing with my lubricant of choice results in slicker shifting. The diesel strips out all of the packing grease, and leaves room for the oil I add to lube.

I gave up on all those tricky wax lubes, and just stick to good old Pedro's syn-lube. For those on a budget, or just posessing a realistic view on the cost of cycling accessories, a litre of chainsaw bar-lube can be had for very little, and works well on bicycle chains. The tackiness additives assist in reducing throw while in use. YMMV.

Rico - SM/Mullet Audio

Rico I did similar once many moons ago (Manato Cro-magniesium frame) with a nice set on the back, cleaned it with some petrolum of choice at the time and lubed up.

Suffice to say I regreted it after a short period when the whole thing was griding like a beast, I really think they pack it with grease for good reason!

Man I really want to get back in the moutain bike game.

Hmmm. The most important point (I read it in a US bike mag years ago) was to completely dry the chain post-diesel... cotton waste, then a few days worth of air-drying. Then a thorough link-by-link soak lubrication of the chain, pre-installation. The chain I treated this way ran under punishment (both dry & dusty and wet & muddy) for years, and is still running on the bike with its current owner. Go figure!

I can't talk mate, mine have been lying idle for so long. I'll be riding to work again from next week, looking forward to it.

Rico - SM/Mullet Audio

PS - is possible to pick up a good used mtb from loot if you have champagne tastes on a beer budget. I was hankering for a Kona Explosif for some time...

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Originally posted by Rico:
The chain I treated this way ran under punishment (both dry & dusty and wet & muddy) for years, and is still running on the bike with its current owner.

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YIKES! chains are cheap, chainrings and cassettes are not. Chain stretch can seriously screw up a cassette. I replace my chain at least once a year. If its streched more than 1/16 in 1 foot its time to replace it.

re - lube, I use Pedro's Syn Lube also, and a SRAM PC-68 with my 8-sp XT stuff - probably the same as the Sachs mentioned above.

cheers

Dan

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Originally posted by Rico:
PS - is possible to pick up a good used mtb from loot if you have champagne tastes on a beer budget. I was hankering for a Kona Explosif for some time...

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I got a light (sub-3lb) frame for £95 used, a lightly used set of Manitou Mars Elites (2.9lb) for £60 and using the old wheels from my Epic (as it's gone disc with Hope XC/Mavic 317 wheels) and various other bits from my old Kahuna and a few new bits I had a nice 22lb bike for less than £250.

Of course it's getting a little more expensive now I've bought a set of carbon bars and I was also in the shop today ordering an Easton seatpost but none of that was really necessary.

On chain lubing I use my MTB's a lot (usually at least 3 times a week - 6 times this week) so I just spray the chain with GT85 after I wash the bike. In this weather the bike gets muddy so quickly I'm not sure how much use decent chain lubes would be.

Regards
Steve

Oh that's right, GT85!? I used to have some of that back in blighty - I'd forgotten about it. Damned good stuff too! Bloody excellent for driving out the moisture after you've washed down yer bike post-ride.

Rico - SM/Mullet Audio

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Originally posted by Rico:
Oh that's right, GT85!? I used to have some of that back in blighty - I'd forgotten about it. Damned good stuff too! Bloody excellent for driving out the moisture after you've washed down yer bike post-ride.

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That's what I mainly use it for - I spray the mechs and the chain with it after washing and, other than the occasional tweak of the indexing, that's pretty much the sum total of the maintenance I do.

Regards
Steve

On the subject of chains I've found the SRAM chains good quality, long lasting and also easy to remove with the simple 'power link' that means you do not need special tools to take it off etc. They'll do one suitable for your 8sp mech. I have them on my road and MTB's.

Bruce

GT85 is too light to use as a chain oil -- it will break down too quickly and you could run into problems. I suppose it might be alright if you washed and re-lubed after every ride.

"In this weather the bike gets muddy so quickly I'm not sure how much use decent chain lubes would be"

You need proper oil even more in winter -- GT85 + Scottish mud will quickly combine into a very efficient grinding paste that will make short work of most bike bits. A heavier "wet" oil will keep the mud out for much longer (although obviously to some extent Winter riding means strip down and re-lube more frequently whatever oil you use)

I used to have a bottle of something called "Bar & Chain Oil" which is a synthetic medium-heavy oil for chainsaws and lawnmowers and so on. Its the same price as Pedro's but you get litre not 250ml and it will last forever. Worked very well on MTBs.

Matthew

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Originally posted by Matthew Robinson:
GT85 is too light to use as a chain oil -- it will break down too quickly and you could run into problems. I suppose it might be alright if you washed and re-lubed after every ride.

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That is pretty much what I do.

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"In this weather the bike gets muddy so quickly I'm not sure how much use decent chain lubes would be"

You need proper oil even more in winter -- GT85 + Scottish mud will quickly combine into a very efficient grinding paste that will make short work of most bike bits. A heavier "wet" oil will keep the mud out for much longer (although obviously to some extent Winter riding means strip down and re-lube more frequently whatever oil you use)

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Any wet oil just seems to pick up grit earlier in my experience. In my group there are various different options being tried for chain lube etc. I probably ride the most out of our group and using just GT85 I'm having no more problems that the folks using "proper" chain lubes. I've trashed 2 chains, 1 cassette and 1 chainset this year but that was after a lot (2-5 off-road rides per week for most of the year, perhaps 1500 miles or more) of riding and one of the chains was destroyed in a rather nasty chainsuck incident. The first chain, cassette and chainset were the original ones on my Kahuna and were never any good anyway - I was glad to see the back of them!

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I used to have a bottle of something called "Bar & Chain Oil" which is a synthetic medium-heavy oil for chainsaws and lawnmowers and so on. Its the same price as Pedro's but you get litre not 250ml and it will last forever. Worked very well on MTBs.

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I know folks who use chainsaw oil in their motorcycle scottoilers. On the off-road motor bike I usually use a dry lube in the winter but after lots of experimenting I've never found anything much good when there is lots of mud about.

Regards
Steve

I recently cleaned the old oil off my mtb chain. I had used a motorcycle oil with the idea of reducing fling. I now think it was too heavy for a bike, and the anti-fling additives attracted too much dirt. I'm nervous about oil turning into grinding paste so it's off. I've picked up a generic light chain oil and will try that instead.

what I wanted to ask is if anyone has tried these dry Teflon sprays and whether they offer advantages over oil?

Brian OReilly

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Originally posted by Brian OReilly:
what I wanted to ask is if anyone has tried these dry Teflon sprays and whether they offer advantages over oil?

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One of my group has tried that - I think the idea is that it won't pick up as much grit and mud. From what I remember he found it good in the summer but it didn't live up to the promises in winter conditions.

I've got to visit the bike shop today to pick up a new seatpost so I'll ask the chap there what he recommends for winter conditions. My hardtail is sitting at home unwashed after a night ride in the Pentlands last night so I need to wash and lube it tomorrow anyway so might give something other than my usual GT85 a try.

Plan is for Glentress red on Sunday - can't wait.

Regards
Steve

I should note, I only used GT85 as a protectant to stop surface rusting after a wash... for me nothing beets a thorough oiling of the chain to lubricate and protect.

Brian, I reckon it's all down to finding a suitable lubricant for your local conditions.

Those parafin-based lubes were all the rage for a while. White Lightning seemed good... but when it fails, it sounds like your chain has been transformed into a highly efficient belt-sander. Same with Ice Wax... limitations being if insufficient time is allowed to acheive full drying, then protection/lubrication is minimal... same goes if you strike very wet conditions on your ride.... or if its a really long ride and the conditions are a little dusty. They seemed to fail instantly. The upside was the chain always appeared clean... but sounded and felt bad under lubricant failure conditions, so go figure.

The least troublesome with most consistent shifting for me has been the Syn-lube, which is why I continue to use it - simple! YMMV.

Rico - SM/Mullet Audio

My local shop recommended the Finish Line Cross Country lube for the conditions I'm riding in, so I'll give that a try for Glentress tomorrow.

Regards
Steve