VPI 16.5 RCM - Newbee

Posted by: Jack on 19 May 2009

I finally took the plunge and purchased a VPI. I have been playing around tonight and had some mixed results. Some of the vinyl although looking clean still has very audible clicks and pops, I had hoped these would disappear or at least be less audible?

It could be of course that I have not found the right technique just yet and thought I would check if anyone has any best practice tips.

I'm not pressing hard on the brush IMO but I am using it primarily at a slight angle to the record as opposed to ninety degrees. Normally when the turntable rotates you can hear the motor grumble, when I apply the brush then I am pressing sufficiently hard that the motor noise disappears although it continues to rotate OK. Is this too hard? If I didn't press this hard it would feel as though I was just moving the liquid over the vinyl rather than getting into the grooves!

How many times do you normally allow the record to rotate while apply the brush? Do you hold the brush in the same place on the vinyl or move it around?

Any pointers would be much appreciated. They all certainly look cleaner!

Thanks

Jack
Posted on: 20 May 2009 by David Leedham
Hi Jack. I use this machine.

  • I don`t apply pressure that makes the "grumble" stop, it does change tone. The brush elements are rather large to "get into the groove" more a distributing tool.
  • I apply brush at 90 degrees
  • I allow 2 full rotations.
  • I do not move the brush around
  • I do a second wash with distilled water and a wetting agent/ photographic anti static.

    There was I believe a web link to a video demo of the manufacturer using this machine. Very useful , Needs tracking down.
  • Posted on: 20 May 2009 by Jack
    David,

    Thanks for the information.

    I realised I have completely missed the second wash with distilled water! Are you using the standard VPI cleaning fluid or something else?

    I've been searching the web and it appears people are using all sorts of different fluids - Disc Doctor, RRL etc

    Do you clean the brush after each application or just after the session? Also which wetting agent are you using

    I've got a fair amount of vinyl to clean and want to make sure I have the right solution before I start!

    Thanks

    Jack
    Posted on: 20 May 2009 by Whizzkid
    Jack,


    Remember that while record cleaners remove dirt from the grooves they also reveal the damage done to the groove walls if the records have been played in a dirty state so you'll not always get a perfectly quiet record I'm afraid.



    Dean...
    Posted on: 20 May 2009 by David Leedham
    After using the VPI liquid I did some net research and decided that the following seemed worth trying.

    DIY cleaning fluid
    A generally accepted recipe:
    · 3 parts distilled water (triple distilled, de-ionized)
    · 1 part Isopropyl alcohol
    · A few drops of photographic wetting agent – if possible Triton X-100, Triton X-110 or Triton X-115 or Monolan 2000, not Kodak Photoflo which is ‘reputed’ to leave a residue (though used by some). Recommended is 12 drops per gallon or 2-3 drops per litre, though some use up to 8 drops per litre. If you add too much, the fluid gets sudsy on the record. I use Ilford Ilfotol

    After a wash in this solution I then use distilled water rinse.

    The records go into Nagoaka sleeves. The result is static free vinyl.

    I clean the brush and suction arm by rinsing under the tap after each session.

    The link to bona fide demo of use is on this page
    http://www.laser-turntable.com...rdCare/VPI_HW165.htm
    Posted on: 21 May 2009 by John M
    Hi - I use a VPI 16.5 too - much the same way David suggests. I do a little more light scrubbing on the wash cycle and less on the rinse. I use it mostly for really grimy records (like the ones reclaimed from dj's who put their fingers all over them.) I use a mixture including a light surfactant - detergent that I found after some research and is designed to lift the grease from finger marks and mold and other gunk that lies on top and within. I got this from a photo and book restoration and archive supply store in NYC called Talas. I use a VERY light solution of mostly deionized distilled water with the cleaner known as tergitol 15 s-3 and Tergitol s-9. I like the idea of an antistatic wetting agent, and I will look into that, so thanks David. I know there is a whole thread on this topic, and I totally respect the opinions within, but this is what works for me. Actually for the most part, unless it is noticeably or audibly dirty, I just use my carbon fiber dust brush and drop the needle and enjoy.

    My only querie about the VPI RCM it seems that alot more liquid gets sucked up than gets drained out. But I am not going to worry too much about it.
    Posted on: 22 May 2009 by yeti42
    I bought a used one a few months ago without the brush so I'm using a clearaudio wet brush instead. 25% IPA in RO water works most of the time. I've recovered some records I thought were goners and had a few records that didn't come completely clean with the first time but did the second with a longer soak. On 2 occasions I've resorted to using washing-up liquid in tap water but I don't use the same brush and rinse it off under the tap before using the IPA mix to remove the residue from the tap water.
    There's no drain on my VPI.

    RO = reverse osmosis and a great boon it is to the man who used to have to de-scale the old stills.
    Posted on: 25 May 2009 by soundsreal
    A few tips:

    Buy the Disc Doctor cleaning pads, you get two, one for the cleaner and one for the wash. You get replacement pads as well, excellent excellent product, tons better than the vpi brush. He has fairly universal instructions on how to clean.

    The vpi cleaner is just okay. I started with that when I bought the machine, then went to the Record Research Labs, very good, then went to the MoFi cleaner, made by RRlabs, then I found what I currently use, Audio Intelligent Vinyl solutions, best I've used so far. Several types, one is a two step process, which I use, a cleaner and an ultra pure water wash. The cleaner can be left on very dirty records for up to 20 min, and seems to really help with those. Fairly amazing stuff.

    Also, rinse your brush, or pads, in either the wash fluid or distilled water, NOT tap water.

    As to the Vpi, some people really scrub, some apply only slight pressure. From what I've heard either is fine, no damage is done. If you search you can find many many comments on using the VPI machine.

    Use a carbon fiber brush after you clean, and before and after you play a side.

    With some records you can't expect miracles, a trashed record is trashed, even if they look clean.

    Do eventually buy better cleaning fluid, and use a good wash, some are even using Aquafina from Pepsi, as commented on by Michael Fremer, and just get cleaning!
    Good luck...
    Posted on: 26 May 2009 by Jack
    I think I'm getting the hang of this now with some reasonable success. I'm using the home made formula as suggested by David followed by the VPI solution then a rinse with purified water. I've only one brush at the moment (VPI) so having to spend a lot of time cleaning the brush. I've ordered a MoFi MFSL Vinyl Brush (Wet/Dry) and some Loricraft Audio L Art Du Son Record Cleaning Fluid.

    I've not found anywhere in the UK that just sells the Disc Doctor cleaning pads or just the fluid? I'll try and find somewhere in the UK that does the Audio Intelligent Vinyl but looks mainly USA based.

    Its strange that some records that look perfect and have had a thorough clean still have lots of noise whilst some other records that have a fair number of marks play perfectly without background noise or pops.

    Just cleaned a 12" luminous vinyl version of Kraftwerk's Neon Lights which has been stored away for >20 years, it sounds fantastic!!

    Thanks for all the information.

    Jack