More SBL - Setup/ Bases (Question for Tom A)

Posted by: greeny on 29 May 2003

Sorry to start yet another topic on this subject but I didn't want to hijack the SBL vs SL2 thread.

A question for Tom Alves really. What size are the MDf bases you have under your SBL's. And how do you orientate your 3 screws in the floor (2 at back, 1 at front?)

The reason I ask is as follows:

Ever since I have rearranged my SBL's to fire down the room rather than accross I've had a Bass boom problem. Much of this has been addressed with changes to Furniture positioning, strategic cushion positioning etc and now it is only evidennt on maybe 5 - 10% of recordings. Please note this is not a huge problem, but I much prefer a lean fast bass to a thick/heavy bass.

I had been addressing the problem as a room mode issue (which it may be) but on reading a different thread about using paving slabs under SBL's I decided to give it a try.

I purchased 4 * paving slabs from B&Q and under the SBL's they went. They had previously been located on 4 cross head screws through the carpet and underlay into the Chipboard floor. I separated the paving slabs by 4 blobs of blue tack, the bottom slab laying directly on the carpet. Well the transformation was pretty significant, any hint of boom was gone to replaced by tight, fast, spacious bass, still deep but with more detail. Great I thought, jobs a good un, but... 1 day later and much of the improvement has gone, still slightly better than before but not the leap that I had experianced the day before. So what might have happened;
- Slabs have settled into the carpet/underlay and are now more coupled to the floor? - maybe
- Blue tack has compressed to such an extent that slabs are more coupled and this is adversley affecting things? - maybe
- I imagined it all? - I don't think so.
- The mains was just particularly good when I first did the experiment? - Maybe but I remain convinced there is some good results to be acheived by experimenting in this area.

In order to try to address the Blue tack issue I replaced the blue tack with a thin cork dinner mat, but this has not improved matters.

So I thought I might play around with some Ball Bearings/nuts and screws, but on reading Toms comments maybe I sould try an MDF solution. One concern I have is that the rear spikes on my SBL's are only maybe 1.5 inchs from the wall (skirting board) so I assume any Base would need its floor interface nearer the wall than this (to be stable) This would put it into gripper rod territory. I was also interested in the stability of a three point solution, hence the question to Tom.

Anyway - sorry to waffle on and hope you understand the query.
Posted on: 30 May 2003 by greeny
Thanks Tom,
I'll try something similar.

Interesting you used one nut at the back rather than the front, I find the SBL's centre of gravity nearer their back than their front so would have thought two at the back a more obvious solution!

Also how stable do you find them? I'd have thought that unless your boards were significantly larger than the SBL base size you might have a stability issue!
Posted on: 30 May 2003 by Lightkeeper
Tom !

Do you have some picture of that?
I plan to do something like that for my Intros.

Thanks,

Ozren Smile
Posted on: 31 May 2003 by Richard F
Hi Tom,

Did you secure the 6mm nuts to each base in anyway or simply rely on the wieght of the speakers to do the job?

As I have a Fraim I know Naim don't use any glue in their design.
Posted on: 02 June 2003 by greeny
Ok so I've had my first pass at this, But... where do you get your ball bearings. I (naively) ventured down B&Q, but not a chance.

So, so far I have 4 screws into the floor through the carpet (using the same 4 I located the SBL spikes in). These are all leveled, on top of these I have an M6 Nut, on top of this 12inch square 18mm MDF (it was either 12mm or 18mm) on top of this 4 * M6 nuts near the corners, on top of this another 12inch square MDF board, on top of this my SBL's.

So far the results are pretty good. I find the bass quanity adjustable by varying the positions of the nuts between the two boards. When I manage to locate some ball bearings i'll replace the bottom nuts with ball bearings and add bearings on top of the middle nuts.

When I've done this and its settled I'l experiment a bit with nut positions etc.
Posted on: 02 June 2003 by Greg Beatty
"I find the bass quanity adjustable by varying the positions of the nuts between the two boards."

I don't doubt the observation here, but...

...WHAT IN BLAZES is going on???

- GregB

Insert Witty Signature Line Here
Posted on: 04 June 2003 by Markus S
Alex,

could you post a close-up picture of your ball bearings? Are they the industrial/captured variety, or are they cone and cup? Or are you referring to just a single metal ball as a ball bearing?

I'm also not clear how you go about mating balls and nuts (this is meant seriously, okay?).

Thanks,

Markus
Posted on: 04 June 2003 by Mekon
So you've got no nuts down below?
Posted on: 04 June 2003 by Markus S
Tom,

thanks for the drawing. As they say, a picture and a thousand words ...

Markus
Posted on: 05 June 2003 by greeny
Ok so I found some ball bearings (a place near where I work in Nottingham that just sells Ball bearings!!) I bought 3 different sizes (4,5,6 mm) but eventually settled on the 5mm. So reassembled the bases will bearings in place and the results are very good.

The bass is adjustable, I think by varying the distance between contact points on adjacent levels you must be changing the natural frequency of the boards (maybe?) anyway there is certainly some adjustability. I need some more prolonged listening to fully evaluate but it has certainly cleaned up the bass on my problem recordings. I need to evaluate whether it is having an adverse effect on other frequencies (so far I don't think so).

Anyway some pics for those that are interested


The raw materials M6 nut and 5mm ball bearing
Posted on: 05 June 2003 by greeny
Close up of assembled boards / bearings.

You can just see the nut head screwed through the carpet, this has a 6mm bearing on top, the boards are 18mm Mdf then the nut bearing combination with another board on top
Posted on: 05 June 2003 by greeny
SBL in Situ on Board assembly.

Boards are 12 inch square.

Obviously if you had a router you could finish the boards a bit better than this, and could paint if required.
Posted on: 05 June 2003 by Mekon
I look forward to hearing what effect this has had.
Posted on: 05 June 2003 by greeny
Last photo.

Seemed to have a problem with Explorer, so switched to Mozilla.

Total cost
4 foot * 2 foot 18mm mdf - £7.50
m6 nuts (pack of 35) - £1.50
4mm, 5mm and 6mm bearings (24 of each) £3.00

So cost of each level -> approx £1.30.
Posted on: 05 June 2003 by greeny
Tom

The Screws I have through the carpet are those I previously put the SBLs directly on, hence they exactly match the SBL spikes.

I found if the nut/bearings were directly under (or very near) the SBL spikes then the bass was too strong (only a slight reduction from no boards at all) so I moved them out slightly and acheived the desired effect. I decided that if the bearings were inside the SBL spikes this would be a less stable arrangement. Though I might try this sometime, obviously if I had used bigger boards there would be more to play with.

Obviously your traingular arrangement onto the floor is likely to require a different arrangement
Posted on: 05 June 2003 by greeny
quote:
Are you using 3 or 4 nuts & Balls. If 4, does the MDF sit level ie in equal contact with all 4.



I use 4 screws through the carpet with 6 mm bearings on top, obviously this does present a problem that Tom doesn't have, but after leveling I then used a glass shelf and the Mana! tuning technique to level them properly. I decided that if I used 3 screws I would need bigger boards for stability and as I already had 4 screws into the floor I used these
Posted on: 05 June 2003 by Mekon
I'd be interested to hear from Alex S, given that he has put MDF bases upon a soundbases.
Posted on: 05 June 2003 by Mick P
Chaps

You will get a more rigid structure if you assembles :-

nut

ball bearing

nut

This way things do not slide about as easily.

Regards

Mick
Posted on: 05 June 2003 by Thomas K
quote:
You will get a more rigid structure if you ...


You will also largely cancel out the desired ball-bearing effect.

Thomas
Posted on: 05 June 2003 by Mick P
Thomas

Vuk who invented this system tried everything and reckoned it was better with 2 nuts per ball bearing.

You are best experimenting for yourself. When I used this contraption, I found no difference in sound what so ever.

Regards

Mick
Posted on: 05 June 2003 by oldie
On a simple and purely Engineering principle
Three Point Location is always more stable
that any other number ,but if fiddling with
your balls keeps you happy, who am I to
question what you do behind closed doors

Oldie Wink
Posted on: 05 June 2003 by Thomas K
Mick,

OK, I wouldn't take your judgement for it (what with Sarah), but I'll take Vuk's. Wink

Thomas
Posted on: 05 June 2003 by greeny
quote:
You are best experimenting for yourself. When I used this contraption, I found no difference in sound what so ever.



As with most things speaker related, this I suspect is completely room dependent. But for those with suspended Wooden Floors that feel the bass is a bit woolley/overblown or lacking impact then this is definately worth a try.

I suspect those with concreate floors might not benefit
Posted on: 11 June 2003 by Greg Beatty
My DIY support for speakers has used MDF and I recently substituted 12" square marble pieces. Last weekend I switched back to the MDF to compare and...yuck!!!

My Allaes definitely prefer the marble.

- GregB

Insert Witty Signature Line Here
Posted on: 11 June 2003 by garyi
In my experience anything under the SBL that tightend up bass also made the treble a bitch.

What has become of the treble on this layout?