General Isobarik questions

Andrew is spot on. Also bear in mind that when Linn stopped selling them ten years ago they were around 4200 ukp. Factor in some inflation since and you would be creating a mullet of the highest order. Your money would be much better spent on a better TT or CD player.

regards
Steve

They take quite a bit of amplifier to drive them and they are quite revealing of a less than stellar source. You need a 250 if not a pair of 135's to nourish their size and extremely low bass. Mine work on a carpeted concrete floor. The wooden floors I've had them on weren't as good. I've yet to hear a pair on a decent stand (M**A is hard to get in the Midwest), but others have reported great success with this.
Once set up and driven properly, they are a joy but only if you like what they do... Some can't stand them, others (like me) wouldn't part with them for anything else.
I heard my first pair about 1984 and knew that's what I wanted. Had a pair since 1985. They are happiest with my LP12, 32.5, Hi and 250 so far. They want updates on the LP12 and an 82 next... They are not forgiving of any CDP I've tried, but honestly I've not used a Naim CDP in my system yet. Waiting to win the lottery (or find a nice CD5 or CDX used!).
David

thanks for the input. I am currently getting close to a 250/SNAPS or 250/Hi upgrade. I do understand the mullet issue, but do to budget issues I have been looking at upgrading in areas that I can get the best deals on. I figure worst case if I didn't like the Linn's I could always sell them at a profit. I definately won't be able to try them at home first. I assume the 40" height included stands?

I would ditch my DMS for a pair of PMS and go active... That would cost me dearly and make the source even more critical.
I still have not heard anything I like better than a 6-pack on PMS.
I understand that the 300 running passive is even better, source first and all that, but not likely I'll hear such a setup in Ohio.
If you find yourself hooked on the PMS, then you'll want to go with the 250/Hi at least. You MUST then get your source improved as well, and this will lead to a preamp, etc.
My system is bordering on mullet, but the 32.5/Hi/250 is a classic combination that drove many sets of DMS. And my LP12 is higher spec than that era's. But source can be improved... A better arm at least is in store for my LP12.
Good luck and let us know how you get on with it. If you don't go with the PMS, let's talk. Maybe I'd be interested if they're a really good deal.
My wife will KILL me!
David

Add in the length of NACA5 to your "deal", it is far superior to the NACA4. My wife and 6 & 7 year old boys could tell me which speaker had the 4 and which had the 5 when I first upgraded the wiring. I suspect that the DMS, being so power hungry, appreciated the thicker gage wire. Maybe it wouldn't be so dramatic on more efficient speakers, but don't leave the shop without '5 for your DMS, no matter what amp you use.
David

I too have had 'Briks for about 20 years, and kept them in everything from efficiency appartments to large living rooms. I've also played plenty of sources and amps through them, from the very good to the very bad.

Andrew and Steve are right in emphasizing caution, but I personally wouldn't hesistate to buy them if I had your current gear, given that you've got the chance and that you plan to upgrade.

In my experience, the main thing that a bad source does through 'Briks is to make them sound hard and edgy, especially in the midbands. This is admittedly unpleasant to listen to, but I don't think that a P3 is anywhere near to being a bad source, and I'd bet that even with your current gear 'Briks will be quite listable at modest volumes (given proper set-up, of course).

If you buy them let us know how it turns out.

Yeah, I'm sure somebody will eventually tell me that the jitter can be heard through a belt drive and 8 pounds of edge-loaded platter...
David

I have found out the speakers are DMS's from 1986. They do come with stands, the woofers have rubber surrounds, no updates to the tweeters, and the crossovers are internal. based on some of the older threads around the forum, this vintage seems pretty well regarded with the exception of the "bullet plug"? on the back. They should come with about 25' of linn cable. I will let you know how they sound, if I get them.
thanks
Tim

I think you guys may be a little too intimidated by the Briks. In the current era, they are a budget speaker.

I am currently running mine with a 32-5/snaps/110, fronted by a Rotel and an LP12/Val/RB250/Grado. Oh, with nac A4 (A5 on the way). In an old apartment with shitty wood floors and fairly solid walls.

My 250 is clearly better, but is it $1000 better than the 110? Depends on how rich you are, I guess. I don't tend to go higher than 10:00 tops on the volume with cd, usually more like 9:00, but the amp isn't crapping out on me. At the current price of Briks, the only flat earth competition in the US is from Kans, Rega models, Epos, and damn few others. And the Briks alone do bass.

They are certainly distinctive and old-fashioned. The bass quality is great, though it can be overwhelming. The mids are dry and can be piercing. The treble is good though not the last word. Transients sound amazing--I use this system with my tv and foley sounds--keys jangling, doors slamming, have never sounded so good. Oh, male vocals are a bit chesty. The rhythmic qualities are very good if not tops. Perhaps that changes with a more powerful amp and Mana stands, or active (will be trying soon). And then there is the tweeter upgrade possibility, which I believe is about $200 for all four.

As for value, you can't beat it. Ever look at what a B110 driver (used also for Kans and LS3/5a) gets on ebay? Briks have 4 of them.

Oh, and size: They are 15 inches wide. That's only a little more than the width of Kan stands at the base (or many other stands). They are deep (though you're not putting anything in front of them so that doesn't seem like a big deal) and visually imposing, but they are not impractical in their space demands beyond needing a rear wall.

--Eric

Isobariks are a real steal if you have the room and sistem to do them justice. Your'e getting a pair of speakers that at current prices would sell for £5,000 to £6,000 to be profitable (maybe more)and they go for £350+ depending on condition, stands, whether PMS or DMS etc. They do need a lot of time and back breaking effort to get right though but when you do there's nothing upto £10,000 that can approch them for musical rightness. Wrong room or sistem though and there a mess. I spent weeks getting mine right but when you do.

Yours in Music

Syd

Couldn't agree more!
David

quote:

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Originally posted by dsander:
Could someone help me out. My DMS Isobariks sound dreadful. I'm not sure why. The ancilliary equipment seems fine. (naim 250/ cd3) I need a specialist to look at them. Anyone know the nearest to Yorkshire who would be capable of servicing these speakers. Thanks

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Ensure their as close to the rear wall as humanly possible and play around with the stands/spikes to get them as stable as you can. are you using NACA5 speaker cable?, if not get some.

Yours in Music

Syd

Hey - this 50hz split source PSU - can you wind it up to get 45rpm out of the Linn? That's a wicked idea...

Now if only I could get a Flutterbuster for my Planar 3 so I can get 45rpm without dismantling, AND reduce speed so it's not running 1% fast...

Can a Rega Mira run Briks (serious question?) - it worked with Epos ES14s but the room was too small - my mate uses them with an (ahem!) original A&R Cambridge Alpha and it sort of works... No dynamics, but never mind

When the music's over turn out the lights

Guys

What is the difference between PMS and DMS? and what would be the best option to be driven by a pair of 135's or a single 250 (or possibly 3!), passively I assume if its just the 2 monoblocs or a single 250?

cheers,

Steve D

45RPM is no problem, just slap in the appropriate CD.
I believe PMS originally came with no passive x/o and one needed active electronics and 6 amplification channels.
Later DMS came with an external (and therefore optional) x/o and you could connect either way.
Mine pre-date the external x/o but the label on the back references the PMS wiring scheme.
David

Effinity wrote:

quote:

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What is the difference between PMS and DMS?

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PMS= Professional Monitor Loudspeaker
DMS= Domestic Monitor Loudspeaker

PMS= 3 inputs on the rear one for each set of drivers. No internal crossover. Either an external crossover is required or they have to be run active.

Later Briks were all PMS with external crossover that fit in the stand.

DMS= 1 input on the rear which goes to the internal crossover.

Arthur Bye

Hi all

I've just got round to putting paving slabs under my Briks and what a difference it makes. £3.00 but with an effect on sound quality nearer to £3,000. Just did it an hour ago and will adjust spikes tomorrow to get rid of any residual tendency to unstability. If you own Briks and have a wooden suspended floor it really is a no brainer. Bass deeper and much tighter and everything just has a more solid sound to it. And only 3 quid from Homebase.!!Bloody amazing. Thanks to all who have advised this tweak on various threads on the forum.

Yours in Music

Syd

Hi All

Just a few lines to add to the above. I've spent a few hours getting the stands and speakers as stable as humanly possible and eked that wee bit more out of the speakers.

While I had the toolkit out I also had a look at the tightness of the speaker units and found them to be remarkably loose considering I tightened them up a couple of months ago. Any body know how to check the internal midrange units. I believe the four studs around the outside of the external unit cover up access holes, but how do you remove them and is there allen bolts or screws beneath?

Yours in Music

Syd