Question about mountain bike disk brakes
Posted by: garyi on 13 April 2005
I just got a mountain bike with disk brakes.
Although it comes with all the instructions on attaching the disk brakes it doesn't specifically state how you can adjust the tension, my guess is to add more brake fluid but basically I have to press the brakes nearly to the handle bars before a nice bite, and I prefer much less movement.
I have three months to get it serviced for free, but this involves a bit of a trip, so does any one have a clue on these things?
Although it comes with all the instructions on attaching the disk brakes it doesn't specifically state how you can adjust the tension, my guess is to add more brake fluid but basically I have to press the brakes nearly to the handle bars before a nice bite, and I prefer much less movement.
I have three months to get it serviced for free, but this involves a bit of a trip, so does any one have a clue on these things?
Posted on: 13 April 2005 by Bruce Woodhouse
What make and model of brake?
Almost all have a lever adjustment screw, probably close to the hinge of the lever, this allows you to adjust the lever in or out, thereby making the 'bite' some point before you hit the bars. Some (such as my Hope Mini's) have a small locking nut before the adjustment can be made. You'll usually need a small allen key.
The alternative is that (if not self-adjusting) the brakes have simply not been set up correctly and may need adjustment of the pads at the caliper. This will depend on the type of system. Most are self-adjusting and you might just find the problem improves once the bike has been used and the brake lever 'pumped' a few times in that case.
Do not start fiddling with fluid-should be no 'level' unless faulty/leaking as these are usually closed systems with no air in them.
Frankly I'd ask my bike shop to set them up properly if not working well from new. It is their job.
Bruce
Almost all have a lever adjustment screw, probably close to the hinge of the lever, this allows you to adjust the lever in or out, thereby making the 'bite' some point before you hit the bars. Some (such as my Hope Mini's) have a small locking nut before the adjustment can be made. You'll usually need a small allen key.
The alternative is that (if not self-adjusting) the brakes have simply not been set up correctly and may need adjustment of the pads at the caliper. This will depend on the type of system. Most are self-adjusting and you might just find the problem improves once the bike has been used and the brake lever 'pumped' a few times in that case.
Do not start fiddling with fluid-should be no 'level' unless faulty/leaking as these are usually closed systems with no air in them.
Frankly I'd ask my bike shop to set them up properly if not working well from new. It is their job.
Bruce
Posted on: 13 April 2005 by garyi
Yea your probably right,, I'll see if I can take it in Saturday.
They are called Hayes So1e, not something I have ever heard of.
They are called Hayes So1e, not something I have ever heard of.
Posted on: 13 April 2005 by Bruce Woodhouse
Found the instructions here
Looks like they are not self-adjusting. May need to adjust the calipers-see paragraph E in the pdf file. Need a 5mm allen key.
I'm day off today and in the process of replacing the pads on my bike before a long wet ride!
Have fun
Bruce
Looks like they are not self-adjusting. May need to adjust the calipers-see paragraph E in the pdf file. Need a 5mm allen key.
I'm day off today and in the process of replacing the pads on my bike before a long wet ride!
Have fun
Bruce
Posted on: 13 April 2005 by Roy T
It would seem that some people don't use breaks at all, is this wise?
Posted on: 13 April 2005 by Steve G
quote:Hayes So1e
I haven't heard of those either but it just sounds like the pads need to be adjusted closer to the disc.
Posted on: 14 April 2005 by domfjbrown
quote:Originally posted by Roy T:
It would seem that some people don't use breaks at all, is this wise?
...as seen in the Olympic Games! HOW the HECK do you do an emergency stop on one of those without breaking your legs!?
BTW - how much better are disc brakes over decent V brakes? I have no trouble stopping my bike at speed - had to drop from 39.5 mph to 0 in about 10 metres and managed it And yeah, that IS a pushbike (Specialized Hardrock). Well, if I can't drive, I'll go as fast as I can on a bike thanks Of course I'd have gone even faster if a) a juggernaught hadn't been in the way on the start of East Wonford Hill and b) the lights hadn't been red when I came round the blind corner! Suicidal tendancies - nah, I just like SPEED! Oh, and c) I later discovered it's a 20mph limit - imagine that, being done for doing TWICE the limit - on a bike!?
...all assuming they sort out my rear deraillier today - had noisy 3 and 4 on it and no amount of my feeble "service skills" (read "fiddle and hope" managed to cure it!
Posted on: 14 April 2005 by starbuck
If the brakes are feeling a bit spongy at present, I'd only add to others' suggestions that they may need bleeding - whatever the solution (no pun intended), if it's a new bike I would take it back to the shop for them to sort out for you.
Happy riding when to you when it's fixed. I've just been playing around on a bike which belongs to my girlfriend's brother (which has remained unridden since it came as part of an insurance settlement 5 months ago), and this has Shimano disc brakes fitted(I've only ever used V-brakes and Magura HS33's) - lots of fun indeed!
Happy riding when to you when it's fixed. I've just been playing around on a bike which belongs to my girlfriend's brother (which has remained unridden since it came as part of an insurance settlement 5 months ago), and this has Shimano disc brakes fitted(I've only ever used V-brakes and Magura HS33's) - lots of fun indeed!
Posted on: 14 April 2005 by Bruce Woodhouse
quote:BTW - how much better are disc brakes over decent V brakes?
A good disc brake is a lot better than a 'V' in the wet/mud, and generally can give more braking power and probably better modulation. They also do not wear out your rims. It can add weight though.
Discs have become de-rigeur at all levels (rather like suspension) and I suspect some of the cheaper ones are no great advance over a decent 'V'. You get what you pay for!
bruce
Posted on: 14 April 2005 by Steve G
Unless you're doing downhill races then the main advantage of disc brakes is their performance in adverse (wet/muddy) conditions. V-brakes are fine in the dry but I've worn out a set of V-brake pads (and near enough a set of rims) in a single muddy/gritty ride at Glentress.
On road then there isn't really a problem. Most road bikes still use cantilever brakes and they offer much less power than even V-brakes do.
On road then there isn't really a problem. Most road bikes still use cantilever brakes and they offer much less power than even V-brakes do.
Posted on: 14 April 2005 by Nigel Cavendish
Also disc brakes still work even if the rim is buckled...