Chainsaw Protection
Posted by: Richard Dane on 04 November 2010
OK, so the new chainsaw has arrived at my local dealer (Stihl with 16" bar) and being a novice, I've got a few basic lessons lined up before I start using it in earnest.
In the meantime I have got some Chainsaw trousers, and will be getting some gloves and a helmet with ear defenders and face shield.
My question to any chainsaw "pros" on this forum is; Is it absolutely necessary to have specific chainsaw boots, or would steel reinforced safety boots be OK? I already have the latter and having spent almost as much on the safety gear as the actual chainsaw itself I'm keen not to have to spend any more if possible.
I'm aware that a chainsaw can cut through most boots in a matter of moments but can't see what specific "chainsaw" boots add other than certification. I have seen a few clips of steel reinforcement vs. composite. Very nasty. Steel seems to be the way to go!!
Advice appreciated...
p.s. When I told the dealer that I wanted gloves, he advised that they protection wasn't really necessary. "Your hands should be on the saw at all times..." Good point. "I think I'll take them anyway..."
In the meantime I have got some Chainsaw trousers, and will be getting some gloves and a helmet with ear defenders and face shield.
My question to any chainsaw "pros" on this forum is; Is it absolutely necessary to have specific chainsaw boots, or would steel reinforced safety boots be OK? I already have the latter and having spent almost as much on the safety gear as the actual chainsaw itself I'm keen not to have to spend any more if possible.
I'm aware that a chainsaw can cut through most boots in a matter of moments but can't see what specific "chainsaw" boots add other than certification. I have seen a few clips of steel reinforcement vs. composite. Very nasty. Steel seems to be the way to go!!
Advice appreciated...
p.s. When I told the dealer that I wanted gloves, he advised that they protection wasn't really necessary. "Your hands should be on the saw at all times..." Good point. "I think I'll take them anyway..."
Posted on: 04 November 2010 by deadlifter
I would ask the dealer if he would do you a good deal on the Stihl boots seeing as you have spent a far amount of money with him already. Cheap is never cheap in the long run.
Posted on: 04 November 2010 by Adam Meredith
Not to be a wimp but I'd look into a training course if you haven't already.
Chainsaws are the closest many come to handling a shotgun/boomerang combination and accidents are best avoided rather than mitigated.
I'd rather chainsaw in a thong and sandals (properly trained) than wing it in ballistic pants and a ice hockey mask.
Others, passing by, might disagree.
Adam 'No Toes' Leatherface.
also - Health & Safety gone sane - http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg317.pdf
Chainsaws are the closest many come to handling a shotgun/boomerang combination and accidents are best avoided rather than mitigated.
I'd rather chainsaw in a thong and sandals (properly trained) than wing it in ballistic pants and a ice hockey mask.
Others, passing by, might disagree.
Adam 'No Toes' Leatherface.
also - Health & Safety gone sane - http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/indg317.pdf
Posted on: 04 November 2010 by u5227470736789524
quote:Originally posted by Adam Meredith:
I'd rather chainsaw in a thong and sandals
Now how am I supposed to sleep tonight with that thought in my memory ?
Posted on: 04 November 2010 by Adam Meredith
quote:Originally posted by Jeff Anderson:
Now how am I supposed to sleep tonight with that thought in my memory ?
My evil work is done.
Posted on: 04 November 2010 by Richard Dane
Adam,
thanks for your "expert" input...
Basic training already booked in and also have the tree surgeons coming round, ostensibly to cut down some hideous leylandii and also give some advice on saw technique, but in reality to all have a laugh at my puny saw and day-glo spaceman outfit while each chanting "you paid how much??!!". Can't wait.
Anyway, I've had many years "handling" my old Bull Terrier "Rommel" whenever other dogs have roamed too close, so I'm thinking a chainsaw should be a breeze by comparison.
Yours, "Stumpy"
thanks for your "expert" input...
Basic training already booked in and also have the tree surgeons coming round, ostensibly to cut down some hideous leylandii and also give some advice on saw technique, but in reality to all have a laugh at my puny saw and day-glo spaceman outfit while each chanting "you paid how much??!!". Can't wait.
Anyway, I've had many years "handling" my old Bull Terrier "Rommel" whenever other dogs have roamed too close, so I'm thinking a chainsaw should be a breeze by comparison.
Yours, "Stumpy"
Posted on: 04 November 2010 by TomK
Good luck Richard. I confess my chain saw is seldom used as it's an intimidating machine. A couple of years ago I bought a B&D small chain saw on a long pole which handles most of what I've needed to do and is much easier to use all round.
Incidentally when we lived in California in the late 80s a poor soul managed to decapitate himself with his new chain saw.
Enjoy
Incidentally when we lived in California in the late 80s a poor soul managed to decapitate himself with his new chain saw.
Enjoy
Posted on: 04 November 2010 by nap-ster
Posted on: 04 November 2010 by Darrell
Chainsaw gloves only have protection on one hand (left) and I agree with your dealer that they are of limited use. For me they put a barrier between user and machine that reduces 'feel'.
Right or wrong most people I know get by without specific chainsaw boots and just use ordinary steelies.
After the basics of using the machine and understanding 'kickback' the real dangers and the thing that takes some learning is understanding where the tension is in the timber and how it is likely to behave when cut. Its here where you get the nasty surprises. Live wood and dead wood behave differently for example. Using a saw safely is about planning and thinking through your particular piece of timber.
I am not a 'pro' but am probably best described as experienced amateur. Hopefully you'll get someone along with more proffessional advice than mine that you can trust with confidence.
Good luck with your saw, I find it very rewarding and satisfying work and hope you do too.
Right or wrong most people I know get by without specific chainsaw boots and just use ordinary steelies.
After the basics of using the machine and understanding 'kickback' the real dangers and the thing that takes some learning is understanding where the tension is in the timber and how it is likely to behave when cut. Its here where you get the nasty surprises. Live wood and dead wood behave differently for example. Using a saw safely is about planning and thinking through your particular piece of timber.
I am not a 'pro' but am probably best described as experienced amateur. Hopefully you'll get someone along with more proffessional advice than mine that you can trust with confidence.
Good luck with your saw, I find it very rewarding and satisfying work and hope you do too.
Posted on: 04 November 2010 by PJT
Richard,
I use steel caps work boots, so wouldn't be too worried about that.
The most dangerous element of using a chainsaw is using it incorrectly, so as others have hinted here do learn how to use a saw safely, understand how a branch or tree will fall or split and to keep the saw from jamming. And of course, know how to keep out of the way of said branches and tress on their way down to earth.
Smaller saws are actually quite forgiving so be confident in their use. It wasn't until I got myself a larger saw (76cc/30") that I purchased the safety trousers and helmet/shield. Boy a 5hp saw can chew wood and kick back if allowed to do so.
Above all, learn how to keep the blade sharp.
Cheers
Pete
I use steel caps work boots, so wouldn't be too worried about that.
The most dangerous element of using a chainsaw is using it incorrectly, so as others have hinted here do learn how to use a saw safely, understand how a branch or tree will fall or split and to keep the saw from jamming. And of course, know how to keep out of the way of said branches and tress on their way down to earth.
Smaller saws are actually quite forgiving so be confident in their use. It wasn't until I got myself a larger saw (76cc/30") that I purchased the safety trousers and helmet/shield. Boy a 5hp saw can chew wood and kick back if allowed to do so.
Above all, learn how to keep the blade sharp.
Cheers
Pete
Posted on: 04 November 2010 by Sniper
quote:Originally posted by Adam Meredith:
[QUOTE] I'd rather chainsaw in a thong and sandals
Adam,
This is what you need to go with your thong and sandals. Real style
Posted on: 05 November 2010 by JWM
Just think how hard it would be to cue that Aro with no hands...
Posted on: 05 November 2010 by Richard Dane
Darrell & Pete, thanks for the useful input. I've spent many years cutting wood and trees using a hand saw. Very hard work, but keeps you fit! And has helped me to learn the ways of the wood, as it were. I have a plan to start out just cutting up various limbs that have been collected over the year, then move on to the larger windfall, and only then after I have more confidence, to move on to anything more challenging.
As for handling the saw, I think the main thing is to have the utmost respect but not to fear it.
Interesting about the gloves meaning you lose "feel". The gloves seem quite thin compared to the ones I normally use out in the woods. I'll have to see how that one works out, but I'm loathe to do any work without gloves as even without using a chainsaw, minor injuries are very easy to pick up.
Tom, thanks a bunch...
JWM, judging from Tom's post, I think losing my hands may be the least of my worries...
As for handling the saw, I think the main thing is to have the utmost respect but not to fear it.
Interesting about the gloves meaning you lose "feel". The gloves seem quite thin compared to the ones I normally use out in the woods. I'll have to see how that one works out, but I'm loathe to do any work without gloves as even without using a chainsaw, minor injuries are very easy to pick up.
Tom, thanks a bunch...
JWM, judging from Tom's post, I think losing my hands may be the least of my worries...
Posted on: 05 November 2010 by Richard S
Richard
I shall follow your progress with interest as I am following a similar path. I have volunteered with BTCV for 3 years (formerly British Trust for Conservation Volunteers) and am part way through a Countryside Management Foundation Degree at Reaseheath College, Nantwich
I think you have approached this in entirely the correct way by learning felling techniques with hand tools before progressing to chainsaws. The countryside professionals I have worked with all say that is the route to follow. Many of the dangers from this equipment come from the trees more than the saws. In college and with BTCV, ballistic trousers and boots are an absolute requirement; the material being designed to stop the saw instantly before it severs your limbs......
I shall follow your progress with interest as I am due to do CS30 and CS31 next year; the NPTC introductory courses on maintenance and felling small trees. The Land Based College nearest to you will offer the same.
I shall follow your progress with interest as I am following a similar path. I have volunteered with BTCV for 3 years (formerly British Trust for Conservation Volunteers) and am part way through a Countryside Management Foundation Degree at Reaseheath College, Nantwich
I think you have approached this in entirely the correct way by learning felling techniques with hand tools before progressing to chainsaws. The countryside professionals I have worked with all say that is the route to follow. Many of the dangers from this equipment come from the trees more than the saws. In college and with BTCV, ballistic trousers and boots are an absolute requirement; the material being designed to stop the saw instantly before it severs your limbs......
I shall follow your progress with interest as I am due to do CS30 and CS31 next year; the NPTC introductory courses on maintenance and felling small trees. The Land Based College nearest to you will offer the same.
Posted on: 05 November 2010 by ray davis
do you intend to climb trees. if so get a harness a cresto one is good with double attachemnt and arrester. wear decent boots HIAXs are proper boots about £125 a pair. If you are going to climb get a decent rope and a pair of spikes to attach to boots so you can dig in .
Posted on: 05 November 2010 by Richard Dane
Ray, no climbing planned. For one thing the saw is wrong and for another I think it's something best left to the Pros.
Richard, I wish you all the best with your degree.
Anyway, I've decided to go for some lovely dayglo orange chainsaw boots to go with the trousers and head/ear protection. Is Tangerine "in" this season..?
Richard, I wish you all the best with your degree.
Anyway, I've decided to go for some lovely dayglo orange chainsaw boots to go with the trousers and head/ear protection. Is Tangerine "in" this season..?
Posted on: 05 November 2010 by BigH47
Tangerine IS the new black!
Posted on: 06 November 2010 by ianmacd
Let’s answer the original poster’s question and not dip and divert into some of the very funny (in their opinion) replies so far.
Being a photographer I am probably as far as it is possible to get from someone who is chainsaw savvy.
Regrettably, I have more mature trees in my garden than I can ever afford to have professionally coppiced so last year I bought a Husqvarna 350 chainsaw.
A couple of weeks before the purchase I’d hired a petrol driven Husqvarna and done some “tests” on ridiculously small diameter logs and branches, all perfectly held in a vice or other method of securement.
As my confidence grew, I moved to bigger diameters, but I always kept massive respect for the Husky and was never tempted to go beyond my comfort zone. That included NEVER holding the machine and cutting anything above mid-chest height.
Also, for me, £20 quid on the Husqvarna Chainsaw Guide was a must.
The company I bought from (Lancashire based) had a superb pre sales service and I was comfortable with the sale.
My only protection, the Husqvarna full helmet complete with face-guard.
If you use common sense and treat your machine with the due respect (and that must be massive,) you don’t need protective trousers etc.
And just incase you are wondering, no, I don't do work or have any connection with Husqvarna!
Hope this helps
Ian
Being a photographer I am probably as far as it is possible to get from someone who is chainsaw savvy.
Regrettably, I have more mature trees in my garden than I can ever afford to have professionally coppiced so last year I bought a Husqvarna 350 chainsaw.
A couple of weeks before the purchase I’d hired a petrol driven Husqvarna and done some “tests” on ridiculously small diameter logs and branches, all perfectly held in a vice or other method of securement.
As my confidence grew, I moved to bigger diameters, but I always kept massive respect for the Husky and was never tempted to go beyond my comfort zone. That included NEVER holding the machine and cutting anything above mid-chest height.
Also, for me, £20 quid on the Husqvarna Chainsaw Guide was a must.
The company I bought from (Lancashire based) had a superb pre sales service and I was comfortable with the sale.
My only protection, the Husqvarna full helmet complete with face-guard.
If you use common sense and treat your machine with the due respect (and that must be massive,) you don’t need protective trousers etc.
And just incase you are wondering, no, I don't do work or have any connection with Husqvarna!
Hope this helps
Ian
Posted on: 06 November 2010 by BigH47
I'm sorry accidents are just that , anyone who doesn't think he needs as full a protection as he can get is , well, an idiot in my book.
I'm sure your legs will stop the blade as effectively as specially designed safety trousers?
I'm sure your legs will stop the blade as effectively as specially designed safety trousers?
Posted on: 06 November 2010 by TomK
quote:Originally posted by ianmacd:
If you use common sense and treat your machine with the due respect (and that must be massive,) you don’t need protective trousers etc.
Oh dear oh dear. And I suppose if you drive very carefully you don't need seat belts. And you don't need fuses because you make sure your electrical equipment's always in good order so nothing can possibly go wrong. You never need inoculations because you make sure you never mix with ill people and when you're on the web you're careful where you go so you can do without antivirus protection.
Unfortunately this sounds like a recipe for disaster. Hopefully not famous last words. I hope people on this board are sensible enough to ignore irresponsible advice like this.
Posted on: 06 November 2010 by George Fredrik
In fairness, I grew up at a time when even a 13 year old on a farm would happily use a chainsaw without any training beyond observing "an old hand" using one for a while, and then entirely without any protective equipment. I survivied the odd blip as do 99% of people, but it was not so very clever really.
I still use a chainsaw from time to time, and nowadays - even in spite of my dangerous apprenticeship - would not dream of doing so without good boots, trousers, and proper helmet. Cycling is so much less risky!
If the chain is well sharpened [as it must be for safe use] the amount of flesh it can cut through before your hand comes off the throttle would beggar belief.
George
I still use a chainsaw from time to time, and nowadays - even in spite of my dangerous apprenticeship - would not dream of doing so without good boots, trousers, and proper helmet. Cycling is so much less risky!
If the chain is well sharpened [as it must be for safe use] the amount of flesh it can cut through before your hand comes off the throttle would beggar belief.
George
Posted on: 06 November 2010 by TomK
PS Many years ago I did quite a fair bit of chainsaw work in my garden wearing not a single piece of protective clothing. As I stood over a log, trimming it down so it could be taken away, I realised that one slip and I could could be "unseamed from the nave to the chaps" and it scared the living daylights out of me. Perhaps stores (B&Q in this case) should provide more advice on protection when they're selling such dangerous tools.
Posted on: 07 November 2010 by ianmacd
Tom K & BigH47
OK, of course I agree that you can't have too much protection when it comes to dangerous activities.
I think the point I was trying to get across (but failed) was along the A Meredith route in that it's better to be completely comfortable and confident with your machine than for someone with no experience to kit themselves up with every possible bit of protection and then think they can attack the trees with reckless abandon.
Regards,
OK, of course I agree that you can't have too much protection when it comes to dangerous activities.
I think the point I was trying to get across (but failed) was along the A Meredith route in that it's better to be completely comfortable and confident with your machine than for someone with no experience to kit themselves up with every possible bit of protection and then think they can attack the trees with reckless abandon.
Regards,
Posted on: 07 November 2010 by TomK
Ian,
I agree entirely that the best armour in the world is not a substitute for careful and responsible handling. However,
"If you use common sense and treat your machine with the due respect (and that must be massive,) you don’t need protective trousers etc."
is pretty unambiguous as far as I'm concerned. I think we actually do agree though.
I agree entirely that the best armour in the world is not a substitute for careful and responsible handling. However,
"If you use common sense and treat your machine with the due respect (and that must be massive,) you don’t need protective trousers etc."
is pretty unambiguous as far as I'm concerned. I think we actually do agree though.