IBL's

Posted by: Andrew L. Weekes on 11 July 2002

Went to my dealer today to collect my serviced LP12 c/w new Klyde and somehow ended up with a pair of Naim IBL's in the back of the car to play with!

A quick clean (you think Mana's a dustrap?) and removal of the various, once living, things nesting in the stand base and I introduced them to my 150, relegating my Kans to the kitchen, temporarily.

These things are bloody great and I don't think they'll be going back, but I'd be grateful for hints and tips from the forum learned on ways to get the best from them.

I only did a quick dem plonking them on wobbly carpet, but it's obvious to me they leave the Kans for dead in every area. A very different tonal balance but it's plain to me now just how coloured Kans are.

The paint / powder coat finish on the base is a bit poor, and there's signs of rust under the finish in places, but nothing some serious elbow grease and a tin of spray paint will not cure.

Thanks in a advance for any advice.

A.
Posted on: 11 July 2002 by Bob McC
Andrew
Don't know what amp you're using but when I got my Mk1 IBLs I had a 140. I loved them immediately but the bass wasn't anything to write home about. However having got a 250 they even do bass now. I find them absolutely marvellous, especially with vinyl
Posted on: 12 July 2002 by M. Brandstetter
is driving them activ.

You will be amazed how good ibl's
sound without the passiv x-over.
No matter whether it's the inbuild or
external mounted.

Am i right? The first models had an
inbuild x-over like todays intros.

Regards
-mb
Posted on: 12 July 2002 by Andrew L. Weekes
There's plenty of bottom end there for my small room - in fact it's just about everything I've ever wanted in a speaker.

Small, unobtrusive (and I take back my previous comments about appearance of the foam grilles, they actually look OK in room, once seated properly) and a bit more bass extension than the Kans, but even faster and more tuneful. The difference in midrange clarity is stunning - difficult to follow lyrics are a doddle now.

I've been put off buying a pair because of comments relating to having anything between them, and I, by necessity, have a TV (sans speakers) and a rack of kit between mine.

The soundstage is still better than Kans, and since I couldn't really give a stuff about imaging they seem to be fine with all the clutter between them.

Any more bass and the neighbours will be banging on the wall wink

One thing I noticed last night, after removing the crossover box for inspection, is that both sets of 4mm input sockets had dry joints to the crossover PCB as a result of the cable stresses placed on them.

A quick clean and resolder and they are as good as new - worth a look though if you have an old pair. Make sure when resoldering the sockets are nicely centred within the holes in the crossover cover, and that they are fully pressed home into the PCB - a spare Naim speaker plug is perfect for maintaing the spacing / positioning accurately.

A.
Posted on: 12 July 2002 by John C
Andrew how would you compare them to Royd Doublets? I have a nagging feeling my Doublets are too big for my very small room and I also have to sit too close to them.

Johnˇ
Posted on: 12 July 2002 by Andrew L. Weekes
They certainly don't have the bottom end weight of the doublet, not surprisingly, and are definitely much faster.

I suspect that the treble end of the Royds still has the edge too, they have some of the best treble I've ever heard, although the IBL's are a big leap from standard Linn Kan tweeters.

You may miss a bit of bass weight, but in terms of communicative abilities I've heard little better.

This could be the start of a happy long-term relationship, and it all came about because of a chance conversation I had bemoaning the lack of boundary placement 'speakers that are domestically acceptable to me.

My dealer has this uncanny knack for saying 'I know just what you need!'. The only negative effect is on my bank balance smile

A.
Posted on: 12 July 2002 by garyi
Whats the current price for a pair in resonable condition? I am on the look out my self.
Posted on: 12 July 2002 by John Sheridan
Gary,
there's a pair on loot at the moment for £275... if they haven't sold already. A pair sold last week on ebay for £460!
Posted on: 12 July 2002 by andrew mcmullins
I've had my IBLs for 10 years now (last year they got new drive units and turned into Mk2s). I've driven them with a 72/Hi/140 and they are great.

I've decided to get a 250 as I know it needs more oompf. They are great little speakers as they are small and sit firmly against a back wall. I got mine with the money from a part-time job when I was a student and had them since.

Hope you continue to enjoy them
Posted on: 12 July 2002 by MarkyB
I currently have Epos Es14s and have been happy with them for many years. However I remember liking the look and compactness of IBLs.

How would the sound of IBLs differ/Be better than my Epos speakers.

Anybody able to tell me?
Posted on: 12 July 2002 by JeremyD
Congrats on your IBLs, Andrew.

Sorry I can't offer any advice - my only experience with IBLs is one brief listen. However, they're the only speakers I've heard so far that I could imagine being a satisfactory (and practical, in my room) upgrade over my Kans. I can't understand why Naim stopped making them...

JD
Posted on: 12 July 2002 by bob atherton
Congrats & welcome to the club!

Bob

(active member!) smile
Posted on: 12 July 2002 by Craig B
Allow me to also extend my congrats on your joining the IBL club.

I can't imagine ever enjoying another speaker as much as I do my Integrated Box Loudspeakers (and I do love Kans BTW).

Try one of Charlie Haden's Naim disks and/or his duo with Pat Metheny and/or his work on Michael Brecker's latest.

You will be absolutely amazed to hear what a real string bass sounds like in your living room.

Craig
PS. consider having the bases re-powder coated. Most coating shops will let you know when they are running a black job and throw them in for next to naught. They will charge a bit extra to blast off the old finish but all you need do is run some bolts into the spike holes to prevent the threads from being coated.
Posted on: 12 July 2002 by Stuart M
Was thinking of ditching the IBL's and go for Allaes but now looking to upgrade to a 250 and thinking where can I get 3 more for the cinema effect. Oh dear not shielded, plasma screen here we come :-)

Seriously anywone no a good centre to go with IBL's, curently using a NAD speaker (Not that good but the best I found that integrated but no longer in production)
Posted on: 13 July 2002 by P
Here's the lovely pair that sold on Ebay recently




P
Posted on: 13 July 2002 by P
aren't they?



P
Posted on: 13 July 2002 by P


Damn.

Kind of wish I'd bought the buggers now!

P
Posted on: 13 July 2002 by Arye_Gur
Can someone tell me if it worse to upgrade the elements of the IBL to the latest model ?

Arye
Posted on: 13 July 2002 by Andrew L. Weekes
Mine are updated to latest spec and sound totally marvellous - the system has been playing non-stop today and I love it.

No idea what the difference is, but it's hard to imagine them sounding better.

I have them installed properly now, but have a set of mains sockets behind one that prevents me from getting them quite as close to the wall as I'd like - the XO box is in the way.

Consequently bass weight isn't quite as good as it could be but there's absolutely no problem whatsoever following the tunes down there so it'll do until I get a chisel to the wall and install a spur. I may just change to a hard-wired outlet for the meantime if I can find a double outlet.

A.
Posted on: 16 July 2002 by Afzal
MarkyB

Unfortunately there isn't much of a comparison at all. They IBLs leave the ES14s for dead!

My 135s drive the ES14s well but they still sound closed in and thumpy. The IBLs are open, communicative and has a more tuneful bass line.

The ES14s appear to extend lower but it's that one note thud I find difficult to live with.

As a result my ES 14s are sitting downstairs in the basement unused. Try and have a listen to the IBLs -- I'm convinced they'll be a significant improvement over the ES14s.

Afzal.
Posted on: 16 July 2002 by andrew mcmullins
The physical difference between the Mk1 and Mk2 (I had mine done last year).

1. The bass unit is swapped
2. About 1/2 the wool / wadding is remove from behind the tweeter
3. The stand assembly is altered (the mounting screws / bolts are changed).

Sonically.

More integrated and more solid bass.
The treble is slightly smoother and more rounded

(I was never very good at explaining how the music changes in words). It was however worth the cost and effort.

Andrew
Posted on: 16 July 2002 by Team Reeves
Who's your dealer, Andy, and what are your thoughts on the Klyde ?

Sounds good to me.
Posted on: 16 July 2002 by John Sheridan
sorry for the dodgy quality...



[This message was edited by John Sheridan on WEDNESDAY 17 July 2002 at 09:38.]
Posted on: 17 July 2002 by Andrew L. Weekes
My dealer is Geoff Matthews @ Soundcraft in Ashford, Kent.

It's not my closest dealer, but I've always been very well looked after there, and have had bad experiences elsewhere.

The Klyde is a genuine Linn rebuild and is every bit as good as my original one, which lasted 5 years of regular use. Not cheap, but I got guaranteed performance and a lot less aggro.

I'm now broke, but have a good excuse for not leaving the house wink

A.
Posted on: 17 July 2002 by Team Reeves
Thanks, I have used Soundcraft as well, in fact he sold me my amps. I find his secondhand prices a bit steep tho'.

Sounds good to me.
Posted on: 17 July 2002 by Andrew L. Weekes
I had a very detailed chat with Geoff when I collected my LP12 - we were there 'til almost 8.30 in the evening!

The biggest problem for any HiFi dealer is they have to add VAT to anything they sell - they are not afforded the dispensation of s/h car dealers.

This automatically adds 17.5% to the cost, and if the items were bought from the dealer he will usually try and give a good price part-ex. so dealer s/h prices do often get expensive. One obviously gets good backup and support but at a price.

Trying to sell items privately isn't a good idea for someone in that position either, it's a very difficult situation.

It's a bigger problem with older gear. Take a 42 preamp for example - a fine addition to any starter system, but it needs either a Naim amp to power it (not cheap) or a Naim PSU (not cheap). The ancillaries can easily exceed the cost of the preamp by a vast amount. Add to this the fact that any clued-up Naim lover would not accept anything less than a Naim service on older gear (not cheap) it starts to look quite uneconomic for the older kit. Even a DIY service isn't a cheap option, when labour and parts are accounted for.

It's such a shame as they are all perfectly useable bits of kit, that would bring a lot of pleasure.

I wonder if they'd work from a wall-wart wink

A.