Which electrolytic caps are found in a 110?

Posted by: Dr. Exotica on 17 September 2002

Does anyone know what type of electrolytic capacitors are found in a 110? I do not have one at present so I cannot pop open a case and find out. Any help is appreciated.

Erik
Posted on: 17 September 2002 by Rico
ITT's, from memory.

Rico - SM/Mullet Audio
Posted on: 18 September 2002 by Mr.Tibbs
Dr E.

The 110 uses 10,000uF 40V caps, the maker was either ITT or STC.

A far superior replacement is the BHC ALS 30. 22,000 uF. 40V.

They are slightly smaller than the original cap’s and have screw terminals, so fitting is a doddle. You simply (carefully) drill out the aluminium rivets that hold the tags in place, then attach the tags to the new cap’s using the supplied screws. – No soldering required!

The RS stock number for the ALS 30’s is 381-9037

Mr Tibbs
Posted on: 18 September 2002 by Mr.Tibbs
.. A junior member again.

Mr Tibbs
Posted on: 18 September 2002 by Craig B
Glad to see you back in the virtual thick of things.

What have you been up to of late? Are the Gales back in the forecast? And what of your speaker stand mass damping experiments? Full report in triplicate please.

BTW, I recently had a very good experience having NHT bass/mid drivers re-foamed. Result, post running in they sound as original. Well worth it at the price.

Craig
Posted on: 18 September 2002 by Manu
BHC 10,000 uF, 40 v with soldering pins is the recommended replacement, no holes to drill.

Emmanuel

All opinions are my own, and reflect those of the organisation i work for, even if not stipulated.
Posted on: 19 September 2002 by Andrew L. Weekes
With my usual huge respect for the skills and abilities of the esteemed Mr. Tibbs, I do personally feel that the advice to use 22,000u caps is not necessarily the best.

My own experience is that increasing these caps beyond the original value is likely to result in some musical degradation, primarily slower bass and poorer ryhthmic performance.

I strongly urge replacing with 10,000u if possible, but by all means choose better, more modern devices.

Mr Tibbs' technique of drilling the terminals though is a cool and elegant way to do the job (that I wish I'd thought of!) - soldering around that bus-bar is not easy.

Use of higher voltage devices (63V) is also something I would recommend. Lower leakage currents, longer life, and a greater chance of finding the same can size are the potential benefits of this.

Regards,

A.
Posted on: 19 September 2002 by Mr.Tibbs
Craig
Good to hear from you!

Sadly the Gales are once again languishing in the loft. I’m torn between re-foaming the drivers, or going the whole hog and completely renewing the units. It’s all on the back burner now anyway, as the Epos 14’s are performing wonderfully since the CDX got the CDPS. The mass damping was showing some promise, but very careful attention to stand setup yielded better results. There is much to be gained from making sure the stand / floor – stand / speaker interfaces are optimised. The spikes at the speaker end were digging in way too much, so I epoxy glued four small squares of hard lead sheet to the speaker bases so that the points made contact with the lead. This alone worked a treat, as did the internal rewire using A5. I’m heartened to hear you’ve had good results from your re-foam job, maybe, just maybe I’ll get round to it this winter.

Andy,
What a diplomat you are!
I of course very much respect your opinion and would agree that some amps don’t respond well to ‘overcapping’. The venerable 110 doesn’t seem to suffer any ill’s from this supercharging process however. As you know I use two 110’s, each with only one amp module inside, so there is an awful lot more power reserve on tap than is the norm for your common or garden 110. The bass drive is powerful and as tight as a drum (ho ho).
I think it’s possible that a power amp modified in this way will tend to have a much stronger low end output capability, probably tending to highlight any front end bass looseness.
Your advice of sticking close to the standard capacitance and using 63V types can only be commended, but hey, where’s the adventure in that!

As a side issue, I’d never leave power amp reservoir caps in place for more than five years, they are subject to a very hard life and will have deteriorated noticeably by then. - Even though they may not actually spill their guts for a good few years yet.

Regards,
Mr Tibbs
Posted on: 21 September 2002 by fatcat
I have just replaced the two 10,000uf caps using BHC's. However I have not replaced the small cap at the back of the box as I cannot find a BHC capacitor of the correct capacitance. I have sourced a supply of BC Components capacitors, does anybody know the quality of these capacitors compared to BHC.

Fatcat
Posted on: 21 September 2002 by Manu
This "small cap" is the preamp PSU cap, if you use a hicap or other Naim power suppy, you don't need to change it for your own purpose. But, if you want to sell your amp one day ...

Emmanuel

All opinions are my own, and reflect those of the organisation i work for, even if not stipulated.