Decorating advice please!
Posted by: Jonathan Gorse on 05 September 2009
Having bought a house last year that was built in 1968 and was seemingly last decorated before there was a man on the moon I have naturally been spending large amounts of my free time doing DIY.
I have next week off and have committed to painting the hall landing and stairs. My questions are:
Existing woodwork seems to be painted in a matt white finish paint - presumably some form of eggshell or satin - can I sand and repaint in satin or must I sand, undercoat and then paint with eggshell/satinwood)
What is that matt paint on the white woodwork likely to be? I actually rather like the effect it gives.
When cutting in between white ceiling and coloured emulsion walls if the area isn't smooth it's hard to paint a straight edge. Should I use builders caulk to try and get a smoother surface where the two colours meet.
Sorry if these questions are elementary but my Father was actually a trained painter and decorator for a time and so would never let me touch anything as I grew up - he was a perfectionist and nobody could do it as well as him. I spent time holding the ladder and that was it! As a result all his knowledge wasn't passed down and he has dementia now.
This is the first house I have owned that has really needed anything more than a bit of emulsion rollering on the walls so I'm keen to do things right.
Many thanks,
Jonathan
Posted on: 06 September 2009 by Happy Listener
Jonathan,
1- when you say woodwork, is this the bannister etc or just the skirtings and side rails/riser?
2- I don't know what the old paint is but having done a few houses, it helps to know how 'crackable/chippable' the old stuff is, as new paint will chip away if the foundation isn't good and you leave the old stuff on.
I would test sand areas and see what key you get and see how the old paint reacts. In my houses I went for new skirtings and/or stripped right back via an electrical sander but you don't have to. Using a heat gun un-nerved me due to the dust in old houses. Using stripper was last resort - fumes and mess, plus how much you need.
Re the cutting in, I assume you don't have coving up. If you have good angles, ceiling to wall, the working the caulk in to any cracks is vital. I just got a 1'' brush and painstakingly painted the tops of the walls. Paint guards etc don't work - you need to be an octupus when up a set of steps.
Other tips if you don't know - use good quality paint and not store trade varieties, don't paper at night/in bad light, paper away from light source and if using emo, pour adequate in a bucket to do the whole job an stir it first to prevent colour changes.
Personally, I prefer paint pads for embossed papers rather than rollers.
Any use?
Posted on: 06 September 2009 by tonym
My advice is - don't. Decorating should be left to those poor souls who actually do it for a living and presumably enjoy it.
I pass on this good advice after spending yesterday up a ladder glossing some exterior paintwork, which, due to high winds, ended up plastered with bits of leaves & muck, and a particularly strong gust knocked my paint pot off the roof onto the patio. The spilt paint would have been somewhat easier to clean up if the dog hadn't run through it.
How I laughed...
Posted on: 06 September 2009 by Jonathan Gorse
Guys, some great advice here so many thanks for that. In terms of your questions HL:
1. Woodwork is both skirting, doors, banister, understairs cupboard doors and panels
2. The old paint hasn't yellowed much at all and has zero chips and I'm guessing was last done about 5-10 years ago - maybe a sort of eggshell sheen. I'm tempted to try some Dulux eggshell white on it after sanding down.
There is coving in the hall and landing but not in the other rooms I have to do. I had no idea store trade stuff was rubbish - B&Q's paint guru told me the trade stuff (Dulux) was slightly nicer than the normal Dulux satin etc. Will try normal Dulux now I think.
I'm keeping away from wallpaper, I like emulsion and have already stripped paper off 3 rooms in the house so don't want to put more up!
Tonym - your story made me laugh - reminded me very much of my style!
Thanks fellas,
Jonathan
Posted on: 07 September 2009 by Happy Listener
Jonathan,
As ever prep is everything and I would also suggest:
1- Undercoating where possible and then use wet & dry papers (400 through 100 grades did for me).
Prep it all before you paint i.e. painting is the last task, don't do bits piecemeal.
I was told never decorate the house living room/lounge first - it kinda takes the incentive away to do the rest.
2- For doors, some skirtings and panels, use the little gloss rollers. You can apply by roller and finish off with brushes via long strokes.
3- Use paint cans i.e. mix and pour gloss in to another container, so you don't contaminate gloss in particular - old plastic popcorn tubs work well for me, post zapping via dishwasher.
4- You can roller skirtings but before you do, hoover and mask off the floor for obvious reasons.
5- plan well and paint large sufaces together - keep the costs of consumables down.
6 Buy a bundle of cheap brushes as well (for some small emo jobs and emo can damage more expensive brushes) as expensive ones and enough white spirit/cleaner than you think you will need - running out of the stuff, when you have a part-clean brush is very annoying.
My houses have never had straight walls and corners, to enable patterned paper to be used.
Sounds like trade paint may have improved over the years but for me.
Plus, if you do replace skirtings, prime and undercoat before you put them on, and always remember to oil paint screw and nail heads prior to filling, never emo them or just fill over them - for the rust may come through.
