Isobariks and stands, An Update

Posted by: syd on 02 February 2003

It's taken over a week but at last I've managed to get my Briks to sound right. They've been moved about a lot (not easy as they are very heavy) but at last the heavy, stodgy and boomy bass has been tamed, the midrange is in the right proportions and I'm beginning to really enjoy my music again Big Grin

They are still on the short wall (11ft) firing down and approx 18" from the side walls and about 5' 6" apart with 2.5" from the back wall. The bottom spikes were a bugger to get right but when you do it is worth it. I've seen in previous postings the suggestion of screwing philips headed screws into the floorboards and standing the spikes onto them. What size of screws would be appropriate and countersunk or dome headed?. I think this will make it easier to get the spikes and stands really stable and eliminate any tendency to rock.

I got the acoustic foam from Wilmslow and after cutting to the right size they new grills look really good.

Thanks to all who read and replied to the previous posting and who's help and advice was much appreciated.

Yours in Music

Syd
Posted on: 02 February 2003 by Martin Payne
"I've seen in previous postings the suggestion of screwing philips headed screws into the floorboards and standing the spikes onto them. What size of screws would be appropriate and countersunk or dome headed?"


Syd,

search the forum on 'coach bolts' - look up PS's entry.

cheers, Martin

E-mail:- MartinPayne at Dial.Pipex.com
Posted on: 02 February 2003 by syd
Thanks for the info Martin

Yours in Music

Syd
Posted on: 03 February 2003 by Martin Payne
Syd,

BTW, should mention that I've not used this myself (concrete floor), but it sounds like a reasonable idea.

cheers, Martin

E-mail:- MartinPayne at Dial.Pipex.com
Posted on: 03 February 2003 by NaimDropper
I've got mine sited on a concrete floor as well. Using the old style Linn stands with spikes in the speaker bottoms and spikes through the carpet and balanced on the floor.
I'd be curious if M**a or some other stand would help my situation.
I've considered carefully drilling holes in the floor and mounting lag bolts directly under the speaker stand spikes so that I could get even better coupling... I don't know if this would make as much difference as an updated stand. And there would be NO flexibility in moving the speakers to another location.
I feel that I've got them fairly well sited but bolts in the floor kinda narrows my choices...
It's a dedicated listening room, so there are no WAF problems in there!
I've been watching with great interest the DIY stand thread to see if it might have some application for me.
David
Posted on: 04 February 2003 by tauron
I have my Isobariks on a flag stone floor. They are now on Mana stands having replaced the original Linn stands last December.

The Mana's need careful setting up to give of there best but now they have bedded in I am very pleased with the music they make. The bass goes much lower and is easier to follow and the overall sound is much more coherant, realistic and enjoyable. I would highly recommend them as long as you are meticulous with setup. I had to repeat it several times to get it just right.
Posted on: 04 February 2003 by Wolf
Syd,
I used screws thru the carpet into the floorboards and they were flat heads and don't have to be big or long. Just note where your holes are for current spike location then screw them in there. I used the adjustments on the spikes to get them stable. sure made a difference in clarity and bottom end on my Spendors.
Posted on: 04 February 2003 by ET
Has anyone looked at the new DIY stands on TNT?
I haven't done those, but the stands I have made used a top "plinth" with the spikes/screws into the large phillips head slots, that were in the top of the stand. I would be tempted if doing another set to combine the tnt plan with the plinth.
Tim E