Floor spikes on Sound Oganisation rack

Try all for a few days, or a week each, and decide which you like best.

I found it depends on the equipment, floor, room, personal taste, and so on. I usually prefer the spikes on (not in!) the floor, but a couple places I've lived, I've gone with the cross head screw approach.

Hove fun,

Chris L

I have never found coins under spikes to be a benefit. The one application where I did like this (coins above upward-pointing spikes) the problem turned out to be the spikes digging upwards into the wood. This was resolved by filling the wood which had been dug out by the spikes, so that a minimal contact was maintained.

Spikes should rest down onto the floor, but not pierce into it.

cheers, Martin

If you move a stand (any imho) it will sound worse and will take days to sound at it's best again. It takes a long time to do a sensible comparism and I don't think everyone is fully aware of this. Hence there is a great deal more dissent/discussion/unpleasantness about stands than simple personal preferences would suggest.

My experience with SO stands is that they work best lowered onto floorboards and alowed to settle naturally (i.e don't force themm in). They don't work as well for me on x head screws and this is especially noticable with an LP12 rather than electronics. I'm not keen on pennies anywhere other than my piggy bank either.

Regards
Steve

quote:

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Originally posted by kan man:

They don't work as well for me on x head screws and this is especially noticable with an LP12 rather than electronics. I'm not keen on pennies anywhere other than my piggy bank either.

Regards
Steve

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Had an SO table for my LP12. Tried all three options, bare, coins and eventually settled on screws as being best. On coins was the worst. This is where the logic of a "reclaimed" Oregon pine floor comes in. Since it's already full of the original nail holes the Mrs can't complain about a few more!

Willy.

I doubt we will get a consensus on coins either, there are probably loads of people out there that find they do work for them. There are far too many variables at play. I did find that on screws you get to the finished performance quicker, probably because the spikes don't exactly settle that much! I do use screws under my Kans though.

Regards
Steve

I became very dissatisfied with the sound of my system when it was on Sound Org racks.

In desperation; I put all the kit on the carpeted floor and connected it up.

It was better. I have witnesses.

Anything made of wood, sounds better.

That 'ferrous-effect' is BAD, BAD, BAD!

Set up is CDX/92/Hi/90.3/Royd Abbots but will be upgrading pre and power amp shortly to 102 or 82

Naim Frame is out of the question so what else is there for £300 or so really I have no idea about racks !!

sorry, have to agree with J.N. & disagree violently with WHF.

Try to get a demo of Isoblue racks. Should be an excellent upgrade & (almost) in your price range.

Also these are wondefully modular, add another component, buy one more level.

cheers, Martin

The concensus seems to be go down the "wood" route and avoid anything ferrous

Do you know which dealerships stock them ?

Boz

They are thoroughly non-ferous.

cheers, Martin

[This message was edited by Martin Payne on TUESDAY 26 February 2002 at 13:37.]