Kan 2 stands with or without mod.?
Posted by: Erik (DK) on 19 October 2003
Posted on: 19 October 2003 by Erik (DK)
Ups, 
here's the photo
here's the photoPosted on: 19 October 2003 by quickie
A mod that does work with the stands,is to get rid of the solid top plate,and replace it with two 20x5mm steel bars.
Paul.
Paul.
Posted on: 19 October 2003 by kan man
Never seen this one before!
Later versions of the Isobarik stand did have panelling similar to this on the front and sides. If I recall correctly it was to help control a resonance. I think I'm right in saying that some brik owners have removed the panels in preference.
I would suggest that if the reason the previous owner did this mod was simply because Linn changed the stand for the Isobarik then it is unlikely to work - Kans and Briks have much in common but are ultimately very different designs.
In an ideal world of course, Denmark would be full of Kan owners making it easy for you to borrow an original pair. If this is not the case, my instinct would be to remove them.
Any lurking (past or present) Linn dealers care to comment?
regards
Steve
Later versions of the Isobarik stand did have panelling similar to this on the front and sides. If I recall correctly it was to help control a resonance. I think I'm right in saying that some brik owners have removed the panels in preference.
I would suggest that if the reason the previous owner did this mod was simply because Linn changed the stand for the Isobarik then it is unlikely to work - Kans and Briks have much in common but are ultimately very different designs.
In an ideal world of course, Denmark would be full of Kan owners making it easy for you to borrow an original pair. If this is not the case, my instinct would be to remove them.
Any lurking (past or present) Linn dealers care to comment?
regards
Steve
Posted on: 19 October 2003 by Erik (DK)
- Soooo much better. Thanks a lot mates.Posted on: 20 October 2003 by Erik (DK)
As you can tell, I'm really happy now. The magic is back, so hard to explain, everything just seems more alive and inspiring.
- But while we're at it: can some of you comment on Quickies reply concerning the "Epos like" mod, with two bars replacing the top plate?
- But while we're at it: can some of you comment on Quickies reply concerning the "Epos like" mod, with two bars replacing the top plate?
Posted on: 23 October 2003 by Erik (DK)
I've just got one last question: By sheer coincidence I noticed that one of my speakers sounded very dark. I turned the wrong button on my Nait, and switched to the left channel, realising how little trebble was pressent. It seems the connector to the left trebble was loose. Now I've reconnected it, but there suddenly seems to be an awfull lot of trebble. I actually preferred it with just one trebble! I normally don't sit between the speakers and so I don't hear the lack of trebble stereo. Can anyone relate to this problem? Or can it only be caused by bad acoustic conditions in my room?
Erik
Erik
Posted on: 23 October 2003 by kan man
Erik
There are many possible reasons why they don't sound correct. Kans are extremely revealing of poor sources or setup. Since you don't seem to have much experience of them, I suggest that setup is the place to start. Here are some basic tips.
You should have a special tool for tightening the terminals (if not, needle nose pliers will do). Make sure the link plates are all clean and that the terminals are tight (but don't overdo it).
Hopefully you are using NACA5 speaker cable. Make sure the plugs on these are clean (unplug and replug several times - and all other connections in your system).
Make sure the stands are level (side to side and front to back) and rigid.
Make sure the speakers are within 5-10 cm of a solid brick or stone wall and at least 45cm from corners.
Place the speakers onto the top spikes (don't push down hard) and ensure that they make equal contact with the 4 top spikes and don't rock.
You will need to experiment with exact placement in the room (this will take lots of time and patience) since this can make a big diference.
Make sure your electronics are properly set up (level and with hicap away from CD player as a minimum) and on a light rigid stand or shelf.
Make sure you have the speaker leads the correct way around (ch1=left) - I once got this wrong and it ruined the music.
Also bear in mind when moving or setting up the speakers that the performance improves once they have had a day to settle. It can be a subtle effect but it bothers me. This can make finding the best position very time consuming until it becomes instinctive.
If you don't have speaker cable terminated with four plugs and are using the link plates, plug the leads into the treble sockets.
Regards
Steve
There are many possible reasons why they don't sound correct. Kans are extremely revealing of poor sources or setup. Since you don't seem to have much experience of them, I suggest that setup is the place to start. Here are some basic tips.
You should have a special tool for tightening the terminals (if not, needle nose pliers will do). Make sure the link plates are all clean and that the terminals are tight (but don't overdo it).
Hopefully you are using NACA5 speaker cable. Make sure the plugs on these are clean (unplug and replug several times - and all other connections in your system).
Make sure the stands are level (side to side and front to back) and rigid.
Make sure the speakers are within 5-10 cm of a solid brick or stone wall and at least 45cm from corners.
Place the speakers onto the top spikes (don't push down hard) and ensure that they make equal contact with the 4 top spikes and don't rock.
You will need to experiment with exact placement in the room (this will take lots of time and patience) since this can make a big diference.
Make sure your electronics are properly set up (level and with hicap away from CD player as a minimum) and on a light rigid stand or shelf.
Make sure you have the speaker leads the correct way around (ch1=left) - I once got this wrong and it ruined the music.
Also bear in mind when moving or setting up the speakers that the performance improves once they have had a day to settle. It can be a subtle effect but it bothers me. This can make finding the best position very time consuming until it becomes instinctive.
If you don't have speaker cable terminated with four plugs and are using the link plates, plug the leads into the treble sockets.
Regards
Steve
Posted on: 31 October 2003 by Erik (DK)
Yes, I am using Naca5. I changed from k20 because of an advice on an earlier thread I made. I very much prefer the Naca5 now.
I have tried to make the stands absolutely level, but: I turnes out the holes from the spikes underneath the speakers are of unequal depth, hence leaving especially the right speaker out of level. It's stabil but not level at all. I don't know how this inflicts the sound, but I would like to hear from any of you, who would know if there is some way of repairing these holes.
Also, quite a lot of paint has come off of one of the speaker as it has once had some tape attached to it. Can this be repainted without comleted loudspeaker having to be sanded and repainted?
Best regards
and thanks for all the advice
Erik
I have tried to make the stands absolutely level, but: I turnes out the holes from the spikes underneath the speakers are of unequal depth, hence leaving especially the right speaker out of level. It's stabil but not level at all. I don't know how this inflicts the sound, but I would like to hear from any of you, who would know if there is some way of repairing these holes.
Also, quite a lot of paint has come off of one of the speaker as it has once had some tape attached to it. Can this be repainted without comleted loudspeaker having to be sanded and repainted?
Best regards
and thanks for all the advice
Erik