It's a bit harder than wiring a plug, but the principles are the same: meaning it’s not difficult technically but don’t get it wrong… Note that the capacitors in the Valhalla board stay charged for quite some time, so leave a couple of hours after disconnection from the mains before you start work. You also need to find a way of supporting the LP12 so you can work underneath it. Take off the lid and platter and, ideally the arm (easy if you have an ARO

) so you are less likely to break something. Take the baseboard off, if you still have it, support between two tables or similar and illuminate well. You then need to disconnect the input (mains and earth) and output (four thin leads to the motor). These are all connected to the Valhalla board by little grub screws, no soldering is required. Label everything as you go. Ease out the ribbon to the switch - it slides out horizontally. The board itself is held with six plastic lugs - fiddling with long-nosed pliers should find it sitting in your hand. Reverse process with new board! The wires to the motor are very thin: check that you don't miss with the grub screw. Make sure that none of the leads are interfering with the sub chassis 'bounce'. Make especially sure you’ve got good earth connections and away you go. There is a picture of one insitu and some other useful advice regarding disconnecting the Valhalla
here. There is lots more advice out there if you search for ‘LP12 set-up’ or similar. Get in touch if you need more help.
As luck would have it, there is a very nice Valhalla board on a well-know auction site right now

duncan
Email: djcritchley at hotmail.com