Setting up mana stands with isobariks, help needed.

I wondered if this might be a problem. Sorry I can't help, but I'd be interested in knowing how you get on (with photo if pos) and also what external xover users do to hide the ugly brutes as the mana stands (afaik) don't have panels like the Linn ones.

"All systems are perfectly designed to get the results they get."

I have worked out that the Linn feet are simply nailed on, they have a pin embedded in the plastic. The supplied mana feet I simply fixed to the four corners, they have a similar pin.

The version of isobariks I have, have the crossovers inside, the ones with the row of sockets along the back. Therefore I don't have the problem of hiding the crossovers.

I spent most of last night setting everything up and had a quick listen but was not entirely satisfied. Things were not night and day as I was led to believe. The sound became more hifi rather than musical. Yes, there was a bit more base but it didn't seem as controlled and things like cymbal crashes didn't seem to have as much sparkle. Overall there was a slight bloom to the sound.

I shall have to go over the whole setting up procedure again. Or it could be my room which has an original flag stone floor which I believe is laid directly onto the clay.

Tauron

Please persevere because it will be worth it.

The easy bit is levelling the stands using the bottom spikes.

Take your time ane get it right.

Now comes the awkward bit "tuning the glass"

The best way is to set the rear LHS upward facing screw/spike to a relatively low setting and nip it just finger tight.

Then adjust the front RHS screw which is diagonally opposite with your spirit level.

Then use your spirit level to adjust the rear RHS using the rear LHS as the datumn.

Then you adjust the front LHS screw until it pings.

Then and this is important, make sure you secure the glass in position with masking tape from the glass down over the metal frame This will stop the glass from shifting about when you drop the speakers onto it. This is where it can go out of tune.

Then, try and get two of you (unless you are built like a gorrila)to position the speaker in mid air and drop it vertically onto the glass.

Then remove masking tape.

Then make sure the sponge insulation is between the front of the speaker and the metal bracket at the front. Then nip up very very lightly the rear horizontal screws.

It is a bloody tortuous performance but it is worth getting right.

Briks on Mana do work.

Regards

Mick

Tauron

My briks sounded better after about 4 hours. This is normal because I had to switch the power off.

I sometimes think that "settling in" is an allowance for you to adjust to the sound and you can up to a point convince yourself that things sound better..

I think you should be able to make your mind up fairly soon, as long as the system is kept powered up.

But I think you will find that the Mana stands actually improve the sound.

Regards

Mick

I think I may have found the cause of the problem, I noticed there was a slight amount of movement in one speaker and discovered that the bottom of the speaker was not perfectly true. Obviously when using the Linn stands this was sorted with the top spikes. Luckily I noticed that the Linn feet are slightly thicker so used one of these and this seems to have done the trick as far as setup is concerned. I give them a few days now to evaluate the sound. Incidentally the trick with the tape was perfect as I was doing the job on my own I think the glass moved before.

Thanks to all.