Fraim maintenance tip

Posted by: dave simpson on 03 February 2002

Wow... thanks to the individual that first mentioned checking the Fraim's nuts/spikes three weeks after initial install! What a shocker! My installation was months past due for this check. Since I had to do some furniture re-arranging tonight which required moving my two Fraim assemblies, I thought I'd see if my fasteners had worked loose.

Checking all fasteners, I found the cones loose by as much as a tenth of a turn... expected and not a big deal, however the base unit spikes and nuts were all a full turn loose! Time to round-off my remaining Naim spanner;)

Needless to say all the usual adjectives apply... I can taste Fiona Apple's lip's again (think she just ate chocolate ice cream) and the scent of 6550's warming Tolex on old Twin Reverbs are back;)

Looks like you could check the nut/spike tightness without disturbing the rack, so after I get a better spanner (no offence Naim, I appreciate the thought) I'll be checking these once a month.


...back to Fiona,

dave

Posted on: 04 February 2002 by Tristram
Dave.

I think I may have mentioned the adjustment, (thanks to my dealer for the tip). You will probably find it necessary as the wood adjusts to falling humidity. This is typical when the heaters come on for winter here in eastern Canada. I think it will be unnecessary to check them repeatedly once the stand is set for the less humid environment. I have not had to check mine again. If the symbols stop shimmering and the bass seems a little off, then an adjustment is needed. Since my last tune, I have had no problems at all. tw

Posted on: 04 February 2002 by dave simpson
I figured it must be the humidity. I live in the southern US. When we change seasons it's like an on/off switch. 80 degrees and humid the last day of Indian Summer and 35 degrees and not a drop of moisture in the air the next (day).

"If the symbols stop shimmering and the bass seems a little off, then an adjustment is needed."

Perfect description btw. I chalked it up to "contact/circuit breaker cleaning time" (I do it every 4 months..that humidity thing), little did I know the Fraim fasteners were loose.

"Swindon Rack and Object d'Art Society"

Vick old boy,

Abstract art *and* a pee nine ehhh,hmmm...I suppose that collection of angle iron supporting your rig will do (what with right angles and acceptable logo script), however I think it's time we have Mr. Parry refresh you on the Gentleman's Transition to Pipe and Slippers. I've a spare pair of Briks and a 72/hi-cap for the cause and I'm sure one of your hoodlum, renegade friends has a dying uncle or grandfather that would part with his LP-12. Since those motorcycle fellows you hang around with feel that a Naim 72 on 634 levels of angle iron will outperform the Naim 52 on anything less, I expect your 52 in the mail anyday now...;)

regards,

D.Simpson

Posted on: 04 February 2002 by Evan D. Jay
Dave,

How tight are you going with the Fraim fasteners?

Evan

Posted on: 04 February 2002 by dave simpson
I'm tightening up Linn-style, in other words, as tight as I can get them short of damaging materials (per instructions and conversation with Dave Dever). Somewhat difficult on the upper cones as the supplied bar doesn't leave much for gripping but if you stand a shelf on edge and grip the bar ends with both hands you improve leverage and will get them tight. Kind of scared to get a longer bar as I might place too much pressure on and trash something. I tighten the nuts with an adjustable wrench...the supplied aluminum spanner "rounded-off" rather quickly.


hth,

dave

P.S. Make sure your SO didn't upset a shelf (and it's ball locators)and not tell you about it. My wife did and in her panic she re-located one of the ball locators upside down;)

Posted on: 04 February 2002 by jcc
dave

we're you able to get the NAPSC in area that is safe from Lucy's morning ritual?

cheers
jim

Posted on: 04 February 2002 by dave simpson
LOL!!!!! yessiree indeedy... I placed the bracing device under a three tier SO...now if any mice were watching her and got any ideas:0

btw, got the lavender, thanks!!

dave

Posted on: 04 February 2002 by jcc
your welcome
Posted on: 04 February 2002 by Tristram
Dave.

You are right about the wrenches, they do suck. If I get to a bike shop soon I'm going to see if Park tools make cone wrenches the same size. Those won't bend, or round for sure. tw

Posted on: 04 February 2002 by dave simpson
Wonder if they have (or does anyone even make)an adjustable wrench "thin" enough for adjusting the thin nuts you run into these days. If not, I'd live with a high-quality spanner that wouldn't "round off". Thanks for the bike shop tip. Got one up the street...I'll check 'em out.

regards,

dave

Posted on: 04 February 2002 by Mark Dunn
Hi all:

Please keep in mind that Naim *might* make the wrench/spanner the way it is to prevent overtightening, as is apparently the case with the tool to tighten the ARO base to the LP12 armboard.

Best Regards,
Mark Dunn

Posted on: 04 February 2002 by dave simpson
Naim, NANA?
Posted on: 04 February 2002 by David Dever
quote:
Please keep in mind that Naim *might* make the wrench/spanner the way it is to prevent overtightening, as is apparently the case with the tool to tighten the ARO base to the LP12 armboard.

The ARO pillar base has a small ridge around the perimeter; surely, this need be taut but not flattened. The Fraim cups, however, are flat from the edge to the cylindrical center; the resonators are edge-flat, such that "tight" should not break the veneer.

As far as the cones go, well, my last (unstripped) of four pressed-steel wrenches is wrapped around the rear bottom nut at the base of an LP12 stand--I didn't have the "decent" 17mm (?) open-faced cast wrench handy, which I used before with great results, and this one stripped in the most inopportune place possible (the cat hates it, obstructs hi-fi inspection and toy pursuit through the hi-fi racks).

Posted on: 05 February 2002 by dave simpson
"As far as the cones go, well, my last (unstripped) of four pressed-steel wrenches is wrapped around the rear bottom nut..."

Naim spanners...breakfast of champions;)


Things could be worse.You could adopt Jim Cash's cat which destroyed his Ekos.


regards,

dave

Posted on: 05 February 2002 by Mark Dunn
... regarding the picture you posted above.

I see you.
I see your Mana.
But where is your cat?

Best Regards,
Mark Dunn

Posted on: 05 February 2002 by jcc
yea that fine furry feline suddenly decided after 3-1/2 years that the red 'thingy'(troika) was a new play toy (while playing).

the ekos now has a slight case of the 'rattles' and the troika has a crippled cantilever.

anyone for my new "Black Cat BBQ"?

cheers
jim

Posted on: 05 February 2002 by dave simpson
Now if you could just track down Tim Padrick and his shelf full of returned Troikas (suffering nothing more than dirty styli) and a good deal on an Aro or Ittok!
Posted on: 23 February 2002 by dave simpson
Hi Fred,

Sorry I can't answer this one but contact Dave Dever/Chris West at NANA. Guarantee you they can.


regards,

dave

Posted on: 23 February 2002 by Willy
quote:
Originally posted by Fred:
ON your fraims, the triangular shaped ball bearing cup, can you tell me what the primary purpose of the 3 sides touching the ball bearing is?


Thanks

Fred,

In the Naim three point design the ball bearing is in a position of stable equilibrium, that is to move the ball bearing in any plane, including the horizontal requires the input of larger quantity of energy than if it were on a flat surface. In the case of your design whilst the surface the ball rests on is curved, at the microscopic level it is flat, the energy input required to displace the ball is therefore much smaller. Simple O level physics. (Well it was in 1976, probably PhD material these days).


Willy.

Posted on: 23 February 2002 by Willy
quote:
Originally posted by Fred:
And my only question is,to what benefit is a difference in the amount of work (energy required to move something)

Your speakers (footfalls etc) are introducing energy into the system so the more resistant to motion it is the better.

If the purpose of the triangular isolation was to increase required effort to move said ball, than why is it not touching the cup along its entire circumferance?

That would be the ideal situation. Thecost of engineering to this level (molecular) would be prohibitive (except possibly for some Seattle residents).

Seperately, my idea has the ball resting in a drilled out hole in the roundeed top of a carriage bolt, so that the bottom of the hole is in fact, flat, and the ball bearing be imobilized by resting its side against the side of the drilled out hole, with only a tiny distance to the other side, so very little side to side potential range of motion.

Very little is more than enough.

So....is the fraim cup/ball to minimize surface aress touching, or to transfer weight to horizontal plane, or, as you suggest, to make it difficult to have movement (ie vibration) transfered (in which case, the ball in flat-bottomed cup (or girl) would be better....go 70's rockers. bad joke

There are probably several effects in play here, especially the action of the interface as a "tuned" mechanical filter. Minimising the touching surface area incerases the pressue at the interface, molecular welding anyone?

Fat bottomed girls (Queen) was that realy 70's? Seems more recent. Either I've missed the reference, or the decade, or had too many beers tonight. Can't be the last one. Never can be.

Willy.

thanks for the help

Posted on: 23 February 2002 by Willy
quote:
Originally posted by Fred:
pretty easy to put a ball bearing into the head of a large phillips head screw, not unlike Vuk's floor plan if I read that correctly...that would provide more contact points so less pressure at each point, and resist sideways motions. Enjoy the beer, I'll catch up soon.

Optimum number of contact points is three.. (eg, LP12 suspension springs, camera tripod, etc...) How about a Cap head bolt with three of the internal faces cut back? Would provide the optimal contact points.

Willy.

Cheers

Posted on: 28 March 2002 by johno
quote:
Originally posted by Fred:
ON your fraims, the triangular shaped ball bearing cup, can you tell me what the primary purpose of the 3 sides touching the ball bearing is? I am in the final stages of building my own Fraim with lathed carriage bolts for spikes and the top being the cup, held to laminated MDF and the ball bearing touching the cup has me questioning a couple of things.

Is the purpose of the ball bearing-cup contact to
1. Reduce the number of contat points
2. Re-direct the weight of the glass/component from the vertical plane to some type of angular or horizonatly deflected plane
or
3. A simple container for the ball bearing which prevents side to side motion.

I had designed my ball holders (??) so that the ball bearings rested in a hollowed out metal cup, just slightly wider than the ball bearing, so that they ball bearing rested on the floor of the cup, and against one side, and with the diameters being very close, the amount of side to side motion would me minimal, and the ball bearing would touch the cup on only 2 points, rather than 3 on the fraim. This point is useless if the funcion of the ball bearing/cup is to deflect the weight from vertical.

Any thoughts?

Thanks

Fred how about 3 holes cut closely to take 3 ball bearings... these then form the surfaces for the top ball bearing... so you get 3 contact points like the Fraim cool
These have to be under the glass...

How is your DIY shelf going?


john