Ball bearings or teflon pads ?

Posted by: DIL on 05 September 2001

Hi,

I have followed the recent QS etc threads and a couple of times the use of ball bearings and nuts (as an intermediate decoupling between shelves and equipment ?) has been mentioned. If I interpret things correctly, this 'mod' was regarded as improving sound quality and therefore worth looking at if high end / good out of the box stands are not an option (Family and monthy budget and all that...).

I have tried to search the forum but drawn a blank. Can anyone post a link to the thread(s) in question, or provide any specific details.

As an aside, has anyone tried decoupling equipment from stands using teflon pads. My thinking here is that the equipment would be free(ish) to move due to teflon's low coefficient of friction. Any 'sticktion' (higher coefficients of friction at zero relative speed.) effects would help to dissipate energy..... Maybe confused

/david

Posted on: 05 September 2001 by Steve Toy
I tried Sorbathane feet under my CD5 when I first got it. They made it sound worse! The soundstage dropped by about 2 feet, and the timing went AWAL.
I am curious now about the effect of Nordost Pulsar Points, as they must have the opposite effect.

It's always a nice day for it, have a good one wink
Steve

Posted on: 05 September 2001 by BrianD
quote:
been thinking about possibly ways of making stands without having to spend money on expensive spikes.

Jeremy

IPL Acoustics sell spikes which aren't expensive at all. I've lost the brochure so I can't tell you exactly how much, but I bought some for my home made support and I'm tight as a ducks' arse.
If I find the brochure I'll edit this post.
Phone number is 01271 867439 (Ilfracombe, Devon)

You'll pay more from Wilmslow Audio but they may be better spikes.

Brian

Posted on: 05 September 2001 by Mick P
Chaps

I used to mount my kit in a large oak cabinet and I tried Vuks idea of the nut/ball bearing/nut assembly mounted on 15mm MDF board.

It worked great and really did improve the sound all round. So this is a great idea if you are strapped for cash and it looks good if the boards are painted black.

Like Tom I now use Hutter which is even better but the Hutter literally cost about 100 times as much as Vuks system.

Nuts and ball bearings cost 10p each max, allow £5.00 for the MDF to make 5 sheets and say £5.00 for a can of paint. So you can isolate your kit for around a tenner and it will sound good to boot.

Also it will look considerably better than Mana.

Pehaps someone should pass this information onto Mr Pig

Regards

Mick

Posted on: 05 September 2001 by BrianD
quote:
Has anyone tried preparing MDF in any way other than with lacquer or paint?

Jeremy

I've used spray paint and real wood veneer on MDF.

In both cases you need to prepare the wood by watering down some pva glue until it can be brushed on. This seals the MDF. It will then accept the paint and look better.

For wood veneer all you need is an iron. You can buy rolls of 'Iron on veneer' from Wilmslow Audio or IPL. This comes glue backed and just needs to be placed on the wood and a warm iron applied. These two companies sell a limited range of veneer and it is only 255mm wide, so for a normal shelf size you'd have to do a good job of a join. Not easy without practice. I think the veneers are in Oak, Mahogany, Ash and something else.

If you want greater choice, better quality and a choice of widths of veneer you should contact Art Veneers on 01638 712550 (Mildenhall, Suffolk). There is a chap there called Mike White who is very, very helpful. You can get a brochure with examples of veneer, tips on how to apply it and finish it off. I think they charge a couple of quid for the brochure but it's worth it. This is a company specialising in wood veneer and as such they have a huge selection. The veneer comes in 'leaves'. By telling the bloke the size of wood you want to veneer he can suggest a type of leaf which will be at least the width you require. You won't have to worry about joins. This doesn't come glue backed, so you would have to buy sheets of glue. Again, you just apply the sheet of glue to the panel, place the veneer on top and apply a warm iron. WIth some care you can end up with a really nice looking finish.

Brian

Posted on: 05 September 2001 by DIL
OK, so I understand the idea behind the ballbearings and how that concept is implemented. (A job for the weekend, perhaps.)

Theorising is, I believe, a valid way of trying to understand what is happening in a given situation. This is obviously no substitute for experience/development/trial and error etc., but maybe can help to give pointers. If nothiing else it get's one thinking about a problem. Even commercial product developers such as (Fill in favourite company here) have things which direct their development.

Back to supports:
There are clearly very different things happening if one has an interface consisting of sharp (hard) spikes resing on a hard surface compared to a rounded hard spike, soft rubber pads (RS or sorbothane or whatever) is another animal. My suggestion of Teflon pads (actually two, one attatched to the stand, and the other attatched to the shelf making the latter free to slide.) was simply checking if anyone had considered or tried out this as a concept.

What are forum members views as to what is happening in a support that works ?

What is actually happening - energy dissipation ?, if so, where is the energy coming from ? internal from the electronics or whatever or external, environmental eg from the room, and the fact that music is playing ?

Are we dissipating energy in a contact (spike on surface) or in material (eg sorbothane) or in the structure ?

OK, not everyones cup of tea as a discussion subject, but maybe worth writing a line or two.

/david

Posted on: 05 September 2001 by BrianD
quote:
My suggestion of Teflon pads (actually two, one attatched to the stand, and the other attatched to the shelf making the latter free to slide.) was simply checking if anyone had considered or tried out this as a concept.

David

No, I've never thought of trying Teflon pads. Don't even know where I'd get them, and to be honest, I've never even heard of them. frown Sounds interesting though. I'm currently looking around for another source of plywood for another support idea and you've given me something else to consider.

quote:
What are forum members views as to what is happening in a support that works ?

I don't think you'll get much joy with this one. I've been reading threads about supports on the forum for ages. I don't think we can agree on which supports work. Even when they appear to work we can't agree on why they work. Even if most people agreed something worked someone else wouldn't agree. If we found something we all thought worked, and we knew why it worked, someone would come up with something that works better that what we'd already agreed worked ok in the first place. Suddenly, the one we'd all agreed worked wouldn't work at all anymore, but not everyone would agree on that either. cool Of course, whether something works or not is subject to the room it's in, the gear that's on it and the ears that are listening to it. big grin

Do some experimenting and come back with your findings. I'll be interested and I'm sure lots of other people will be too. I may even try your idea out for myself. wink

Brian

[This message was edited by BD on WEDNESDAY 05 September 2001 at 19:17.]

Posted on: 05 September 2001 by Sproggle
Disclaimer - I don't claim that anything I say here is a fact - it's merely what I think, based on (un?)informed guesswork.

David:

quote:
What are forum members views as to what is happening in a support that works ?

Here's my rough idea of what an ideal support should do:
1) Block the transfer of mechanical energy from the environment to the equipment.
2) Facilitate the transfer of mechanical energy emanating from the equipment away from the equipment.
3) Nothing else.

Unfortunately, this isn't a particularly useful prescription in the real world.

quote:
What is actually happening - energy dissipation ?

Mechanical energy from the environment and the equipment [the latter either generated within the equipement or as a reaction to energy arriving at the equipement via the stand] is present in the stand.

Essentially, four things can happen to the mechanical energy in the stand and equipment:

1) It can be damped internally and dissipated as heat.

2) It can flow to earth [and a little bit into the air as well].

3) It can be transformed into other forms of sound/vibration. E.g. a coherent sound wave at a given frequency can be converted into incoherent waves of many different frequencies.

4) It can be stored somewhere within the system and later returned.

(These aren't entirely mutually exclusive but they suit my understanding of how stands work).

Delayed low-energy resonance V rapid high-energy resonace:

Anyone who has ever tried a sorbathane or rubber mat in place of the felt mat (or no mat or whatever) on their high quality turntable will probably be able to report that the sound is much cleaner but instruments are more difficult to distinguish from each other, the rhythm is messed up a little, and it all sounds rather boring. In my opinion this happens because, although a lot of the vibrational/sound energy is dissipated as heat by the Sorbathane, reducing the amount of energy flowing between platter and record [making for a cleaner, "blacker" sound] the energy that isn't dissipated is stored for a while only to be returned to the record in coherent enough a form to manifest itself as low energy but relatively long-lasting resonance. This affects the sound in an audible way - altering the attack envelope of notes, for example.

By contrast, a felt mat allows more energy flow in both directions, and allows much louder resonant peaks from the platter to get through to the record. These peaks, however, occur in a much shorter space of time - so short that they cause little harm to a note's attack.

[I have to stop here - splitting headache - more tomorrow, perhaps smile ]

--Jeremy

Posted on: 05 September 2001 by Steve Toy
An excellent post Jeremy! Now go nurse that headache. Jack Daniels should do the trick! cool

It's always a nice day for it, have a good one wink
Steve

Posted on: 06 September 2001 by David O'Higgins
To Stephen Toy.

Stephen I started with a set of aluminium points under my NAC 52. There was a significant improvement. Ditto with the Supercap.

I was then persuaded to try the titanium version ($399 for 4, Ouch!.) The result was staggering. I then went mad and put them under CDS2,XPS,NAT03 and 135's as well. I moved the aluminium ones to my Hi Caps (Prefix,Headline), and the Headline Itself. There are 4 points in a pack, but you can get away with using 3 per component which moderates the cost.

My dealer let me borrow each pack so that I could decide to buy or not depending on the result. I bought them all.

I have bought 5 packs of titanium (the Nat 03 is using 1 aluminium point) at a cost of $2,000. This may seem a lot but in the context of my system it is quite a modest upgrade, and the results FAR outweigh the cost.

I suspect that this is another approach to the result which might be obtained by spending large wads on equipment supports. All the components are in a 4 tier Aavik table which cost about $1000, so adding the cost of the points makes $3000 in total and the result is outstanding.

I suggest that you find a dealer who will let you borrow them first. Don't bother with the aluminium. The titanium is so much better that thats where you will end up anyway. Start with the preamp, as this provides improvements from all sources.

I believe that they will also work their magic on speakers, but i'll leave that for christmas maybe !

Posted on: 06 September 2001 by MarkEJ
Nice post! From the point of view of one who is sublimely uninformed (or in Canadian, "ignorant" big grin ), the only thing there which makes me wonder is the importance of isolation vs. the importance of dissipation.

Most commercially available stands pander to the press-endorsed belief that "isolation" is what one is aiming at. It's fairly easy to see how this has arisen, since originally, turntables with suspension generally sounded better than those without, whilst being more expensive. Although higher prices also meant better bearings, etc., it seemed obvious that the presence of suspension was contributing to the percieved better music. Putting the assembly on a light & rigid skeletal structure with floor spikes helped further. Immediate logical leap: "Isolation is good, spikes help isolate". the idea that music is coming across the room, getting into the turntable and messing things up through continuous low-level feedback is an easy one to snatch at, and definitely a factor to consider.

I think, however (and remember my disclaimer in my first para.!) that it may be, if not a red herring, then certainly less important than conventional wisdom would suggest, as the benefits of a good support are still evident in situations where (a) the speakers are in a different room, or (b) listening is via headphones. Pre-amps seem to be the only common exception to this, and it may well be that for them, isolation is primary. In a way, this makes sense.

My point is that dissipation of (or otherwise allowing for) vibrational ernergy apparently emanating from the item supported does seem to be pretty vital. When you think about it, practically everything has a moving part capable of having an effect on the other circuitry in the box, whether this is a transformer or a motor, or both. If your chosen support incorporates both an easily-excited element(s) and some sort of relatively efficient interface to allow transfer, this effect will surely be reduced. How the energy thus tranferred is then handled post-transfer, is of course, yet another can of worms.

I think that the "sound" of a stand in a given room with a given system is very strongly affected by the stand designer's view of the relative importance of isolation and dissipation. Isolation seems to be all about combinations of mass and spikes, with the better ones paying a great deal of attention to resonances (surely this is the rationale behind the QS "wobbly" approach, with concave edges being a big part of it). Hutter just seem to rely on simplicity, and very serious quality control and consistency to even everything out. The most emotionally vivid system I've ever heard was on Hutter. Mana and Fraim seem pretty similar in terms of their mechanics, with a lot of attention paid to dissipation; Fraim's one-end-fixed aluminium "vibe tubes" appearing to serve the same purpose as Mana's horizontal rails... at a price both financially and in terms of its enormous footprint.

Frustrating thing is, the research required to build a "better" support has probably already been done.

Best;

Mark

(an imperfect
forum environment is
better than none)