isobariks crossover_passive135s or active250s
Posted by: masaccio on 10 September 2002
Dear all,
I want your help!
I have a good chance to get 2x135s or 3x250s with snaxo for isobariks.
I am confused which is better, Passive 135s or active 250s...
The main focus is crossovers, say, which is better naxo or isobarik crossover. I think if brik's crossover is fine product, no necessity to get snaxo.
Please give me your opinion...
oh yeah,
My briks are serialnumber 67xx model which have Linn's passive crossovers.
Thanks,
Masahiro
I want your help!
I have a good chance to get 2x135s or 3x250s with snaxo for isobariks.
I am confused which is better, Passive 135s or active 250s...
The main focus is crossovers, say, which is better naxo or isobarik crossover. I think if brik's crossover is fine product, no necessity to get snaxo.
Please give me your opinion...
oh yeah,
My briks are serialnumber 67xx model which have Linn's passive crossovers.
Thanks,
Masahiro
Posted on: 10 September 2002 by masaccio
James,
SNAXO is configured for DBL, but seller says possible to change to be isobarik mode by Naim.
Masahiro
SNAXO is configured for DBL, but seller says possible to change to be isobarik mode by Naim.
Masahiro
Posted on: 10 September 2002 by Paul Ranson
I would go active. But you have to mount more boxes and you'll be tempted by Supercaps etc for the crossover. So passive is simpler...
Paul
Paul
Posted on: 10 September 2002 by masaccio
It seems I have to open system candidates.
A) passive__nac102/hi/napsc/2x135
B) active__nac32.5/snaps/snaxo/hi/3x250
Both systems are presented with similar price.
Very difficult to choose, I think...
Masahiro
A) passive__nac102/hi/napsc/2x135
B) active__nac32.5/snaps/snaxo/hi/3x250
Both systems are presented with similar price.
Very difficult to choose, I think...
Masahiro
Posted on: 10 September 2002 by NaimDropper
What?
Nobody's asked what the source is for this system.
Assuming you have that right, my vote would be for active, but I don't have to pay for it!
You will have great sound with either choice if you take care in setting it up correctly.
Have fun!
David
Nobody's asked what the source is for this system.
Assuming you have that right, my vote would be for active, but I don't have to pay for it!
You will have great sound with either choice if you take care in setting it up correctly.
Have fun!
David
Posted on: 11 September 2002 by masaccio
Thnaks for your opinions.
But my primary question is not answered directly, I am afraid....
The matter of crossover, snaxo or brik`s.
Which is better, do you think?
Please care, this is the case study question of isobariks, not of `general` active or passive system.
Please post your opinion.
Thanks,
Masahiro
But my primary question is not answered directly, I am afraid....
The matter of crossover, snaxo or brik`s.
Which is better, do you think?
Please care, this is the case study question of isobariks, not of `general` active or passive system.
Please post your opinion.
Thanks,
Masahiro
Posted on: 11 September 2002 by Hermann
Lived with briks and 135 for years (amps are upgraded now) and know active briks with 3x250 very well.
Active systems are very difficult to setup. Given you're able to do that go for the active setup with Naim Naxo (never listen to Snaxo). Its a huge improvement over the passive version. I guess Naim still do Naxo for briks.
The source should be very good. A decent CD player, a NAT01 or very well LP12 will do it.
On the other hand if you want to listen loud the amps could be underpowered and 250 tend to switch off.
If possible count a Mana stand for the briks in. It transforms it into another league.
Cheers,
Hermann
Active systems are very difficult to setup. Given you're able to do that go for the active setup with Naim Naxo (never listen to Snaxo). Its a huge improvement over the passive version. I guess Naim still do Naxo for briks.
The source should be very good. A decent CD player, a NAT01 or very well LP12 will do it.
On the other hand if you want to listen loud the amps could be underpowered and 250 tend to switch off.
If possible count a Mana stand for the briks in. It transforms it into another league.
Cheers,
Hermann
Posted on: 12 September 2002 by Tim Danaher
Masahiro –
It's not really a question of which crossover is better, rather it's about active versus passive operation. In an active setup the SNAXO comes BEFORE the NAP 250s. In a passive setup the crossover comes after the power amps. So, in an active system, the power amps never 'see' the crossover. They will be driving the drive units in the Briks directly. This is the main advantage of active operation, along with the fact that each NAP 250 will be handling a limited section of the audio bandwidth.
Since, in an active setup, the 250s are not driving a heavy load (like the Briks' passive crossover) there is little or no danger of them ever shutting down due to overheating. You'd have to play them REALLY loud for a REALLY long time for that to happen, I would guess.
So, my advice would be to get the SNAXO set up for Isobariks by Naim, and go the active route: more control, more 'insight' into the music. Also, Martin Payne changed from active Isobariks to active DBLs, so he may be able to give you some advice regarding the SNAXO / Isobarik / DBL situation.
Cheers,
Tim
It's not really a question of which crossover is better, rather it's about active versus passive operation. In an active setup the SNAXO comes BEFORE the NAP 250s. In a passive setup the crossover comes after the power amps. So, in an active system, the power amps never 'see' the crossover. They will be driving the drive units in the Briks directly. This is the main advantage of active operation, along with the fact that each NAP 250 will be handling a limited section of the audio bandwidth.
Since, in an active setup, the 250s are not driving a heavy load (like the Briks' passive crossover) there is little or no danger of them ever shutting down due to overheating. You'd have to play them REALLY loud for a REALLY long time for that to happen, I would guess.
So, my advice would be to get the SNAXO set up for Isobariks by Naim, and go the active route: more control, more 'insight' into the music. Also, Martin Payne changed from active Isobariks to active DBLs, so he may be able to give you some advice regarding the SNAXO / Isobarik / DBL situation.
Cheers,
Tim
Posted on: 12 September 2002 by Martin Payne
Masariho,
your 67xx s/no Isobariks should have the large outboard "4 ohm" crossovers. I didn't like these in my system, they just seemed to kill all the speed & dynamics.
As Tim says, I have used active Isobariks until recently. Active is a huge jump upwards, but you *must* have a really good source and preamp for it to work.
Naim will modify a NAXO or SNAXO from DBL to Isobariks, and vice versa.
My SNAXO/DBL arrived a couple of weeks later than the DBLs and Naim told me it was safe to use the Isobarik NAXO. It didn't sound right, but if you can't wait...!
cheers, Martin
P.S. your profile says you're using a CD3. This isn't good enough for either 3x250 or 2x135s. Don't make either change unless you're prepared to upgrade this sometime soon. What preamp are you using?
your 67xx s/no Isobariks should have the large outboard "4 ohm" crossovers. I didn't like these in my system, they just seemed to kill all the speed & dynamics.
As Tim says, I have used active Isobariks until recently. Active is a huge jump upwards, but you *must* have a really good source and preamp for it to work.
Naim will modify a NAXO or SNAXO from DBL to Isobariks, and vice versa.
My SNAXO/DBL arrived a couple of weeks later than the DBLs and Naim told me it was safe to use the Isobarik NAXO. It didn't sound right, but if you can't wait...!
cheers, Martin
P.S. your profile says you're using a CD3. This isn't good enough for either 3x250 or 2x135s. Don't make either change unless you're prepared to upgrade this sometime soon. What preamp are you using?
Posted on: 12 September 2002 by monkfish
Hi
Hermann, you stated :-
" Naim Naxo (never listen to Snaxo). "
Can you please talk a little more about this as I tried a SNAXO and prefered the sound of my older NAXO.
Regards
Jim
Hermann, you stated :-
" Naim Naxo (never listen to Snaxo). "
Can you please talk a little more about this as I tried a SNAXO and prefered the sound of my older NAXO.
Regards
Jim
Posted on: 13 September 2002 by Hermann
quote:
I didn't like these in my system, they just seemed to kill all the speed & dynamics.
Martin
Martin is right on this. You need a very good amp to drive that briks passive. For me the 135 couldnt do this.
Cheers,
Hermann
Jim you have mail
Posted on: 13 September 2002 by masaccio
Thanks everyone for your advice.
Let me summarize your replies.
a) bottomline is active operation is fine but difficult to set up.
b) source first theory is very important in active system.
c) brik's 4ohm crossover is not so good for speed and dynamics. (how about detail?)
ok,,,I see. I am getting to want briks be active.
My concern is, as Martin says, front rigs.
I cannot buy anymore for a while when I got 250s, so I have to live with CD3. (I'm a student...)
If active operation with poor source, what happens?
Martin---
If I choose 250s active sytem, the configuration is
CD3/nac32.5/snaps/3x250s/snaxo/hi/isobariks.
If passive, nac102/hi/135/briks.
Please comment on.
Thanks,
Masahiro
Let me summarize your replies.
a) bottomline is active operation is fine but difficult to set up.
b) source first theory is very important in active system.
c) brik's 4ohm crossover is not so good for speed and dynamics. (how about detail?)
ok,,,I see. I am getting to want briks be active.
My concern is, as Martin says, front rigs.
I cannot buy anymore for a while when I got 250s, so I have to live with CD3. (I'm a student...)
If active operation with poor source, what happens?
Martin---
If I choose 250s active sytem, the configuration is
CD3/nac32.5/snaps/3x250s/snaxo/hi/isobariks.
If passive, nac102/hi/135/briks.
Please comment on.
Thanks,
Masahiro