Made to measure suits ...

Most bespoke tailors do that but they tend to keep it quiet. Basically the cheapest bespoke suits they do are sent away to be made elsewhere. It's difficult to tell if the quality of tailoring is not as good, mainly because the cheaper suits are made from cheaper cloth so you're not comparing like with like. Although having said that, unless you specifically ask and pay for it, the cheaper suits won't have the details like working sleeve buttons, hand sewn lapels and button hole fasteners.
I gave up with bespoke stuff because it takes so long - I like the idea of going into a shop, seeing what you like and getting it there and then, not having to wait 4 months and go through 2 fittings. But I also have the problem that, depending on my phase of training I could be a totally different size and shape in the 4 months between paying for and receiving the suit

Strictly speaking, there is a difference between 'bespoke' and 'made to measure'.

Properly speaking, 'bespoke' is the fully personal service, with each garment being individually drawn, cut, and fitted. Typified by a number of personal fittings (starting with each panel loosely-sewn), handsewn interlinings, buttonholes, etc. The key people involved with this will be the tailor (measuring, sizing you up, fitting and finishing) and the cutter (drawing out and cutting). The actual physical assembly will usually be delegated to others under supervision. EXPENSIVE.

These days (and the reason why it has become more commonplace) 'Made to measure' usually involves adjusting factory computerised cutting machines to fit your particular measurements. There may or may not be one fitting or more to adjust an otherwise fairly standard garment. You will not have the details like handsewn interlings (fused instead) and buttonholes, etc. Though depending upon which maker you go to, you might get working buttonholes (though machine made). MORE AFFORDABLE.

I've had both sorts. I prefer the first sort. But now can't afford either.

That's true although the tailor that I went to called all his stuff bespoke. I think though that they probably did more business with made to measure.

I have heard good things (but no direct experience) of Dress2Kill (google the name). The prices are very good and they come to you (in London, not sure if they cover elsewhere.)

Reductionist,

This link is very good and gives lots of information including prices. It may be worth your while doing a search as I recall there was quite an extensive thread posted here some time ago.

http://www.englishcut.com/

quote:

Originally posted by Justyn:
Reductionist,

This link is very good and gives lots of information including prices.

Justyn,

Thanks for this website. I wish I had read it before getting ripped off by Thieves & Hawkes for £1,200 for a suit that fits no better than one I bought off the peg for £16o. Grr!

Erik

The snag for me is that at different times of the year and depending on fittness I can gain and lose inches, partularly around the waist. So I have a range of off the peg suits that vary a bit in size. I also prefer to go much lighter in the summer so one or two "catch all" suits just won't do it. Like buying anything, the only way to know for sure what works is to wear it and see how it looks. I've seen some people in made to measure suits that look like they were made and measured for someone else!

Chers

Harry

Thank you for the replies.
I searched the forum previously but did not find many specific recommendations, so thank you again for those.

The question the thread raises is "would I be better going for a decent material off the peg or a leser material made to measure?". I am not a hunchback, but I played front row in the scrum so pretty chunky and 5ft 10in!

Reductionist

I use Gieves and Hawkes and find them very good.

Understated styles, good cloth and good fit.

Do not forget the shoes, always always always black brogues and black socks.

Regards

Mick

Reductionist,

This is the thread I referred to-

http://forums.naim-audio.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/58019385/m/9342959007/p/1

Mick,

Shame Erik seems to have had a bad encounter with the same company.

Justyn.

quote:

Originally posted by Justyn:
Reductionist,

This is the thread I referred to-

http://forums.naim-audio.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/58019385/m/9342959007/p/1

Mick,

Shame Erik seems to have had a bad encounter with the same company.

Justyn.

Gieves & Hawkes made my uniforms and did a good job albeit at a higher price than many military tailors (only Dege & Skinner is more expensive) but this was long ago. Many I know were not so lucky and 'Thieves & Hawkes' (as they are widely called in the Army)have many detractors in the services. They are not what they were 20 years ago. One pays more becasue for their location at No.1 Saville Row and for their reputation which is a tad undeserved imo. I think one can get as good at approx 20-30% cheaper just a few doors down the road. The off the peg wool pinstrip I refered to previously costing £160 does fit me better and I am regularly complimented on it. The label inside says 'DeHaviland' and was bought in MossBros. Admittedly the cognocenti would look at my Thieves & Hawkes and see hand finished button holes including the cuffs and real horn buttons etc. which the DeHaviland does not have but most people when asked which one cost £1,200 and which cost £160 get it totally the wrong way round. Maybe I should have been more pushy at my fittings (I'm too laid back for my own good much of the time)- I think next time I have a bespoke suit made I will be a little more demanding.

Erik

Eric

They offer a genuine 50% discount in a genuine January sale each year. Buy then.

Regards

Mick

quote:

Originally posted by Mick Parry:
Eric

They offer a genuine 50% discount in a genuine January sale each year. Buy then.

Regards

Mick

Sounds like a plan.

If you are pretty solid you might want to get your shirts taylor made as well. Nothing worse than being strangled by the top button or have the top button fit and the rest ballooning around you.

I spend a fair amount of time in Asia and get my suits made there. If you don't wear it a lot either get a suit bag and mothballs or get two pairs of pants made up. Each dry cleaning fades them a tiny bit. Admittedly the climate here is not favourable for jackets. I often wonder how the people in old photos felt in the pre aircon tropics wearing a threee piece suit and tie.

cheers
Gus

quote:

Originally posted by Mick Parry:
Reductionist

I use Gieves and Hawkes and find them very good.

Understated styles, good cloth and good fit.

Do not forget the shoes, always always always black brogues and black socks.

Regards

Mick

Mick,

The shoes and socks I manage, I can't believe anyone would choose anything else. Thank you for the tailors name, could you let me know what constitutes a typical price?


Everyone else, thank you again for the good advice, links etc.