Five speed [times two] versus six with two front chain wheels.

Also new wire from the levers to the derailleurs! So it is secure in gear changes ...

Ready for the Norwich Fifty!

I now have 11 sprockets on my latest bike. Very finely spaced gears. I haven't really noticed much difference between 9,10 or 11 speeds, though except when riding in a group. When riding by myself, if my cadence is slightly off, I can adjust a bit by simply speeding up or slowing down, if a shift would be too much difference.

But when in a group, you don't have that option, you have to ride at the speed of the group, and this is where close spaced gears can seem helpful in getting your cadence "just-so". 1 tooth is about 5rpm between a 19 and a 20. If you had to jump from an 18 to a 20 it would be 10rpm, which can feel like a lot.

The other advantage is that having a really low and a really high gear doesn't stretch the spacing too much elsewhere on the cassette.

Gears! In Norfolk? You should get a Fixed Wheel and really save some weight 

Plenty of hills round here though!

ATB from George

Not sure asking people about your choice of gearing on a bike they don't have, in a place they don't cycle, when they are not your age or build or level of fitness,

If it suits you then OK...

Dear Winki,

I shall do my first group ride in two weeks at the age of fifty-three, though I have ridden bikes as fast as could given my own physic and the equipment I was using for almost fifty years ...  

I have never ridden socially, apart from with one other on nice rare occasions. I shall not be trying to keep with the more competitive types. 

On cadence, I have always been criticised for riding on too high a gear, and use strength and torque rather than high cadence ...

I have slightly modified my style towards using lower gears and faster cadence, but I have not adopted the mantra of a constant cadence, and using the gears to preserve it.

It depends on conditions for me!

ATB from George

Dear Lionel, 

Just for the fun of it!

I am an innocent as regards competition! But I do this certain trick: If someone on a superior cycle and dressed to the nines in lycra, passes me - not unusual - I accelerate as fast as I can and tuck in behind and let the speedster carry on! I, on too high a gear, and let him take the strain! Funny to see the expression after a mile or two when this speedster sees you still there!

ATB from George

Nice clearances, in a space that can take [with tiny clearances] a six speed block. But five feels enough.

Nice old style equipment that still works well ...

ATB from George

PS: The chain is 6, 7, 8 speed Shimano. Not an expensive chain, but a good one for all that.

Good for you! Are you still there 30 miles on?

Dear Lionel,

No but in my fifties that is acceptable!

If I had had the Carlton when I was in my twenties, then no doubt I would have been able to be competitive! My mate - who bought the bike new in 1984 - was an amateur time trials competitor at that time, and this was the fastest bike in Herefordshire two years running, those many years ago. He feared me, as I was always much better at nasty hill-climbs than he. But he could beat me on the flat and downhill, because my [then] bike was rubbish in comparison! 

My mate would never agree to swap cycles, but in 2009, his wife was determined to clear out the garage, so instead of throwing the Carlton away, I was given it. In effect this beloved cycle is a "rescue" case, and none the worse for that!

Jus like some of the best dogs are rescue cases ...

And it yields immense pleasure, and has also served as loyal commuting machine since I inherited her. That commuting role is now going to diminish as I have another bike to set up. A Raleigh of similar style, but much greater frame clearances, and slightly greater weight [though it is in Reynolds 531 rather than Carlton's 501 tubing], so that mudguards can be fitted.

It is odd that the Raleigh is heavier with a superior technical spec. It also rides very nicely.

ATB from George

I have found that the big front chainwheel is now more obviously like an overdrive gear that is engaged once you are three off the bottom, and coming down disengaged three off the top. With slightly wider ratio differences in the lower half, there is less obviously redundant gears that can be reached with a two step change at the back with a single change at the front. In effect the gearing is lighter in weight, and just as flexible in choice of gearing. The effect is that you have a usable six speed gear set.

The relatively narrow range of angles [of chain-line offsets] with a five speed block keeps the line better with consequent quieter running. So quiet that other cyclists do no hear you catching up!

Win-win, in other words.

I was surprised how much lighter - and quieter - the five speed freewheel is compared to the six.

Small weight increments - of themselves - make little difference, but add in many small increments and things are detectably better!

ATB from George

The half-step idea where you switch front and rear to fine-tune cadence pretty much disappeared when gears got to 9-speed and beyond. It is simply more convenient to be able to adjust cadence with a single shift at the rear, thus using the front shifter much less often. You are also less likely to need to use a cross-chained combination to get the gear you want.

I don't really get what you mean when you say 5 speed is lighter (OK, I guess by a few grams - but not something you'd ever notice) and quieter than 6 speed. The noise is more likely related to the actual cassette or a compatibility issue. There is nothing inherently quiet about 5 speed when compared to 6 speed. Maybe your chain was too wide? That will make noise.

Dear Winki,

The quietest chain-line would be a perfectly aligned single speed. Also the lightest, apart from materials differences. The smaller the number of cogs on a rear block the better for lightness.

As for consistency of cadence, this runs the other way of course - requiring more cogs towards the ideal of constantly variable gearing which has never been produced with good efficiency - but this is less important if progress is not usually or even very often as fast as conditions allow.

For myself, I have days when I go as quickly as I can, but mostly I go at a speed that allows me enjoyment of the surroundings. Gearing for me is simply a case of allowing for a range of ratios that allows for the steepest hills I regularly go to be taken without getting off, and a top ratio that allows for a mad blast when my blood is up!

I used to have a Dawes hybrid that was easy to use with the step changes from changing front and rear derailleurs at the same time. It had a flat bar, and very handy gear levers. In those days I was more interested in going faster than now! 

For some reason, though, the Dawes was one of those bikes that did not ride very responsively. It was my size for sure, but it always felt like a lead weight, though it was not that heavy. 

Anyway it is only an enthusiasm for me, and I do not take myself seriously concerning cycling, beyond trying to keep my machine[s] in good and safe condition.

Many people are much more earnest about it!

Safe riding, and best wishes from George

I tried the new gear configuration out this morning in the teeth of a considerable head-wind!

I like the more spaced out low three cogs. No temptation to skip a ratio on the way up, and from middle [changing the front at this point] the gearing is high enough for top to be only useful to keep speed on a mild downhill ...

Very pleased!

There are two perfect chain-lines - the small front chain-wheel onto the middle rear sprocket, and the big front chain-wheel onto the second top rear sprocket., which is the effective useful top gear: 53 over 15, which is very comfortable. 53 over 13 is very tall! But has its purpose!

I'll report back on the Norwich Fifty sportive!

ATB from George

I am always amused that you are able to find efficiencies in the sport of cycling that elude the seasoned professionals. 5 speed better than 6? Of course! Just imagine how much better than 11 it is!

Any difference in gears can be compensated by the right 'medical' support.............., so I actually miss the point of the thread.....

......apologies had to post this cynical comment ....

Dear Winki,

You just don't get it do you!

Of course I am not saying that a five speed freewheel is more efficient than a block with more sprockets!

But given that I very rarely make the full use of the efficiencies offered by maintaining an ultra-steady cadence, then it hardly matters!

I am describing a cycle that has evolved over the years to being far more comfortable and enjoyable for me as a fellow who is no longer as flexible or energetic as I was thirty years ago. What I think is sad is to see people failing to accept that a drop-bar is basically an uncomfortable position for the older rider, and that maintaining a steady cadence of 80 or 90 is all bar impossible the great majority of old cyclists!

You say that you are the same age as me, and seem to follow my posts on my enthusiasm with diligence. It seems that you are one of those extremely unusual humans who has suffered not one jot as you rapidly approach your twilight years!

I congratulate you on finding the secret of eternal youth, and that you do not find the ageing process has apparent affected you, but you must realise that this makes you an unusual person. I suspect that I represent a much larger proportion of the population, in mot only recognising my ageing, but welcoming it with good grace.

ATB from George

I don't get how limiting your range of gears helps as you get older. For most it is the complete opposite. As one loses strength it is even more important to have the right gear and cadence. You're right, I don't get it.

I knew that you would not. But then I never did limit the "range" of gears - only the intermediate steps - and I haveI already stated that, so once again you demonstrate your lack of wisdom and experience - or even basic ability to read English ...

I am beginning to think that you are not so much wilfully thick as actually you are fundamentally thick without being wilful at all.  

No amount of age will improve that. 

ATB from George

Helping Winki read -  by high-lighting in red - the salient point

ATRB from George

OK, I meant "range of gears" in a more generic sense. That is, both the top-bottom range and the number of options in between. I get it that you didn't give up "range" when moving from 6 to 5 sprockets. But modern 9/10/11 speed gearing offers both more range and more options in between, especially when combined with compact chainsets. My point stands that efficiency stemming from the right cadence is a factor, regardless of strength or age.

I have no problems with your retro-grouch ways. But just don't pretend that a five speed cassette, requiring double changes (with down-tube shifters) to get the limited but necessary intermediate steps is more efficient, lighter, more convenient or in any tangible, functional way better than a modern set-up. Modern bikes work better in every possible way. I love the look and romance of old bikes, but I don't claim they work better.

Drop bars offer an excellent range of options for hand position and upper body posture. Uncomfortable? Not at all, if set up correctly.

I also think it's sad to see people riding bikes with inefficient and uncomfortable positions. Most riders I see have their handlebars far too high and their seats somewhat too low. To make up for this poor position which places all their weight on their seat, they end riding on seats that are far too wide and soft for any sort of efficiency or comfort on a long ride.

I am also sad to see many people grinding along in gears far too high for the speed they are travelling, thus risking knee injuries (exacerbated by seats being too low) and making the whole thing unnecessarily tiring.

Dear Winki,

Well I reckon we have sorted out the crossed wires with you last posts here.

I also agree that so long as a person finds a certain style of handle bar comfortable, then they should stick with it.

When my brother had a road bike, when I was a young teenager, I used to ride it from time to time. My bike in those days was a three Sturmey Archer hub'ed upright, and I wore many sets of tyres out on that! It had a very similar style handle bar to that on the Carlton now. Except that it's an ally one by Thorn these days. It is a really nice position for long rides, and superb for control. The hands fall naturally onto it, and I like to keep the thumbs on top for spells . It is quite low - pace your comment about some bars being too high - and the stem is in further than when I had the drops or the semi-drops.

I also think it is sad to see people riding bikes that clatter and clang, and are badly set up! 

On the issue of multiple gears, I have always disliked having so many that you end up skipping them.  that is quite a reason for chains coming off and things like that. My highest gear is actually too high to be useful except downhill or with a following wind - I used to be able to ride this top gear till I could pedal no faster, but not these days since the broken leg ..., and the lowest allows me to get up any hill that I want to. So even if I could have more range, such as offered with the wide cog-sets now on the market or even with a triple front chain-set it would be redundant for me. I hate redundancy! Weight for no useful purpose in my view.

I don't know if you remember that little red cycle I got last year. I have decided to set it up with a single speed freewheel. Not as a fixed -wheel, but with a freewheel, and two modern brakes. It is on 27 inch wheels!

Now that really will be a fined down cycle. I think that 48 over 16 or 18 should produce a nice winter cycle commuting gear ...

I also have a nice 531 tubing Raleigh ... and this will be re-enamelled later in the summer. I was going to put mudguards on it, but will save that honour for the red cycle. I was thinking of fitting the Thorn type bar on it, but will keep it on the drops. 

The red bike is actually a pre-1960 Raleigh built frame, though it may have been badged otherwise. I found this out based on the bottom bracket threading on it. Unique to the Raleigh cycles of that era. Fortunately the BB is in good order - cottered type - and can be rebuilt using new quarter inch ball bearings. I have a new one inch head-set for it, so not much to spend!

Anyway, ride safely.

ATB from George