electricity cable amperage

Speak to your dealer Steve to recommend a sympathetic electrician.

Getting into mains discussions on the forum only leads to moderation so probably best avoided... 

PS - what are you using the NAPSC for - i can't see which component this is being used on ?

Unless you are fully qualified and conversant with current electrical code in Australia I would strongly advise no comment here.  Steve, I suggest you have a chat with the Naim distributor who should be able to help out here with advice.

OK Richard, I feel like my amps aren't getting the juice. Cheers

Hi AussieSteve,

In the UK we also run 230v AC - I think your Sparky is maybe thinking we're the USA! (i.e. halve the voltage, double the current.)

There are two reasons for running a *HEAVY* mains supply just for the HiFi...

1) To try to move any possible sources of electrical noise as far away from the HiFi as possible by getting the HiFi onto its own dedicated mains spur.

2) To try to give the HiFi as low resistance mains supply as possible.

The HiFi doesn't *DRAW* 32 amps from the mains supply ... My 'main' setup (19 Naim boxes at last count) draws a continuous 308w@230v (quiescent) and needs to be pushed pretty loud before that rises appreciably and that *TECHNICALLY* could be powered from just a 2amp fuse. (OK - the practicality is that the switch-on surge from the power amps and power supplies is far in excess of 2amps so the practical upshot is that it couldn't.)

The reason why it's best to have as low a resistance supply as possible is to enable the power supplies in the kit to replenish themselves more quickly which translates into better dynamics and better transient response (a mains supply cable able to supply 32amps safely will have a lower 'per metre' resistance than one rated for 16 or 10 amps).

As usual though ... your Sparky will be able to advise you on the best ways to implement this whilst remaining compliant with local regs.

Phil

Hmm, I think most quality electrician design contractors, as opposed to a 'sparky', will understand the requirements here. My close family electrician friend is quite used to separate rings and dedicated spurs for low noise, low impedance supplies for audio systems - albeit more typically recording studios and the like, but the same can apply for quality domestic hifi systems.

I personally would be wary of an electrician contractor who has no or little experience of *designing* and implementing such installations. I am told in the UK being qualified doesn't necessarily mean experienced with the appropriate design skills.  I would also review and walkthrough the design blue print with the contractor.  In my experience these skills tend to reside in Electrician contracting businesses rather than solo traders where a greater knowledge and experience set can be called upon.

Simon

I *DID* have a deposit for a house ... now I have a decent HiFi, a TVR and a rented flat.

Got to get your priorities right...

( ...and before anyone points out that it's a rather immature attitude to take - I know it is - but I'm 45 and single with no kids and no immediate family to leave anything to, I've already 'died' once - for forty minutes - and I'm *LIKELY* to pop my clogs of a heart attack in the next ten to fifteen years so I'm going to enjoy myself. )

Phil

Just enough time to groom your replacement at NAIM then.  

 

Just enough time to groom your replacement at NAIM then.  

 

*chortle*!

Phil

Simon, fair comment, but I think when most people look for an electrician, weather through word of mouth, yellow pages or whatever, they end up with a 'sparky' rather than a 'quality electrical design contractor', so therein lies the problem, I guess. You probably get someone who has been to college, knows how to instal safely and within the regs, and that's about it. 

Chris, perhaps, but I suspect one would be able to find a fully suitably experienced electrician if one wishes.. Certainly if I look for local electrician contractor firms on Google it doesn't appear difficult, I guess however one would pay a premium for a fully professionally designed job over a sparky simply running a wired spur out of the consumer box... and I suspect that is what it is all about as you say.

It's a bit over the top to suggest an electrical design engineer is required.

I think Steve looking for advise from forum members who have first hand knowledge regarding the sonic benefits of 15A cable over 10A cable. The safe installation of the chosen cable can be sorted out by his sparky.

Steve.

I'm pretty sure there's been a lot of discussions regarding the benefits of using 10mm2 cable over 6mm2 cable. The 10A and 15A cables you are considering don't seem very big to me. 6mm2 cable can carry more load than 15A.

Try searching for 10mm2 cable or 6mm2 cable.

Fatcat perhaps you are right.. But I still feel it is better to use an electrician who is familiar with low impedance isolated feeds for audio or other low noise equipment, as they will be able to suitably advise/design with the most appropriate circuit breakers, wiring, wiring shielding and sockets for the task in hand . Perhaps I am biased as I very familiar with an electrician working for a small business which does exactly this, and certainly appear to use design blue prints.. even for domestic jobs.

And of course optimum cable cross section for a given load/impedance is determined by the length of the cable as well. The longer the cable the greater the cross section required for a give impedance.

Simon

I've been wondering about this in the USA, where you can get 15 and 20 amp power and sockets run...no one has been able to answer me whether 20amp is better than 15amp, but I assume a 20amp dedicated mains spur would be more ideal than a 15...just cuz the number is bigger.

We were in a local "proper" hardware store on Friday, on one rack were reels of 6 and 10 mm sq 3 T&E.

Not sure I'd want to working with 10mm though, the 6 mm looked very under weight in comparison.