My Carlton - Retired from commuting now.

Especially with no mudguards George!  They don't look very classy but provide a massive benefit through the British weather commutes!

Peter

Dear Peter,

I have a lovely little Raleigh [from the same works as the Carlton as it happens, because Raleigh owned Carlton from 1960 onwards] that lacks the perfect detailing of the Carlton, but is still a very responsive bike that weighs a fraction of your average commuting bike!

I guess that six or seven years, I'll retire that one as well and get another, after I have gradually evolved it into some even nicer than it is today.

Currently it is responsive, and functional with mudguards, but is hardly photogenic!

I'll get Argos Racing Cycles in Bristol to re-enamel the Raleigh, when the weather bucks up next Spring.

Very best wishes from George

Hello George

I restored an old Raleigh 3 speed bike about 10 years ago in some hair brained scheme that I could pop over to Italy and enter the annual L'erioca event where elderly out of condition chaps ride old bikes through beautiful countryside and consume the finest Italian wines and food during the ride.

It looks very similar to yours and I even managed to get a repro aluminium water bottle and horn instead of a bell.

The trouble was the riding position, the handle bars cause you to bend your back and you also have to crick your neck in order to look ahead.

After a fortnights training I gave up and the bike is now in the garage gathering dust and gives Mrs Mick a gold plated reason to mercilessly mock me.

I think you are wise to restrict the Carlton to fair weather riding.

Regards

Mick

Mine has mudguards (because I don't like muddy stripes up my back), powerful LED lights (to see and be seen after dark even in inclement weather), a rear carrier (to take lunch/ waterproofs/work things because I can't stand a bag on my back when cycling), a mini pump in the seat tube (to get me home in the event of a non-catastrophic puncture), and an air horn (although I no longer ride in a big city, all too many other road users ignore cyclists, and it's amazing how a blast on a foghorn can make a driver suddenly take notice!). Otherwise its exactly like yours, George, apart from being red, with dropped bars but with brake repeaters on the horizontal part (where I normally have my hands), has 24 gears covering the widest range of any bike as far as I could find (the key criterion when I purchased, to cope with the steepest hills yet go as fast as I could on level/downhill), and has disc brakes (brilliant in the wet).

Oh, and it's a Kona Dewdrop, not a Carlton. Treated myself to my first ever new first bike 6 years ago, used for daily commuting regardless of weather apart from ice, or heavy rain at the morning commute time.

Hi George great pics of the Carlton.

Are you useing 25 c tyres on it ?I have always found they give more comfort than 23 c.

A re-enamel will look nice.What colour have you got in mind?

A mate has just restored his Dawes Super Galaxy and he had it re-enamaled in a post box red.

He also added a Shimano 105 chainset 10 speed ultegra cassette and new cantilever breaks.Also indexed 10 speed Dura Ace down tube shifters which are apparently quite rare.Also a new saddle tyres mudguards and a pannier rack.

It looks really nice and nicely set up for the winter months.And not a bit of carbon on it !

Sounds a fine commuter indeed. I commute in the winter on a 10-year old Cannondale tourer. Not as sweet as your ride. It has near-useless cantilever brakes and big tyres. I carry very little to a from work so get away with a small backpack. No airhorn for me. I have become super-mellow in traffic. Zen-like.

Thanks for all the lovely replies!

Here is a a quick look at the Raleigh. Functionally fine it looks pretty rough, but goes well.

Original six speed indexed Shimano 105 running gear through out, on Campagnolo chorus hubs and Mavic rims with new Schalbe Durano 23/700c tyres. 

As you can see I am quite into having enough lights! The front lights do migrate onto the Carlton when she is in use, but if you look uo to the original Carlton photos at the top, you will see that it has a superb ten LED light permanently fixed. I use this, day or night in town!

ATB from George

Dear Ian,

I have used 25 width tyres in the past and I agree that there is just a little more give, which is good, and seemingly no penalty in rolling resistance. However both the bike rest on 23s now. 

The Carlton has Michelin Pro 3 Service Course tyres and these are very surprisingly compliant at about 90 to 100 PSI, and grip too. I keep the Schalbes at about 90 PSI, as they are somewhat harder because of the puncture protection belting. They are also heavier, but also grip well, even in the wet. The photos show the bike just after getting home and getting completely drenched in the thunder. I am getting too old for that. I'll get some rainwear soon! 

The reason I have 23s is that I do keep an eye out for good tyres at a keen price. Tyres do get ruined, and both these tyres sets I got for more than 50 per cent off. The 25s are rarely offered at discount for some reason. But I live with it! I have a spare Michelin waiting for day one is ruined.

ATB from George

The running gear on the Carlton has been assembled over the last six or seven tears and is not a complete set through-out, but a mixture of the very good and the very good of the bike's period and slightly older.

Wheels, Super Record hubs, Ambrosio rims, DT spokes.

Brakes, Campagnolo Gran Sport from the 1960s.

Bottom Bracket, Nuovo Record from the 1970s.

Crankset, Super Record 53/42

Headset, Super Record from the 1970s. [Fitted as New Old Stock, and cost me a pretty penny, but worth it].

Seat Post and Stem, SR "custom" and original fitment on the frame from 1984.

Pedals Lyotard from the 1960s. As smooth as silk!

Handlebar, Nitto. the most recent fitment and bought new earlier this year.

Dérailleurs, Super Record with "C" Record friction shifters, which were the very last and superb, and also rare. 

I would not like to try and assemble this groups today. But some of it came as gratis, and most was good used. 

ATB from George

For Winki,

If I could find a Carlton Kermesse in the size of the raleigh, I'd have a quick bike my size, and be well served, but beggars cannot be choosers!

ATB from George

PS: Arrived today a really good Lezyne 200 Lumens front light, which I am charging at the moment. Fortunately it has a separate Li-ion battery, so that if the battery [two supplied] dies, then I can use the other and get another spare. I hate rechargeable lights where the battery is not a spare to be got, and requires soldering if one could get one. LEDs seems to last longer than normal bulbs and several times brighter! But a knackered battery soldered in means the light is scrap when the battery dies. Lezyne Mini Drive. High or Low beam only. Quite sufficient. 

And yes it works! Like the old Ever Ready torches with a six inch beam, which also ran flat in three hours but were not rechargeable! And weighed about four lbs. [pounds]!

ATB from George

I know George raves about the qualities of the Carlton frame (which is too big for him), but really, those tasty vintage Campag bits need to be installed on a much better frame. That fits me. At my house.

Dear Winki,

According to received wisdom the Carlton is too big for me, but I can reach the floor with one foot from the saddle on tip-toe. What is definitely conventionally wrong is that I cannot stand flat footed over the cross bar ...

But in practice I am quicker off the mark at traffic lights without clip type pedals than people riding more conventionally sized bike with clips. The point is does the bike go well, and, when the mood takes, fast? 

If so, then such considerations of conventional sizing pale into insignificance!

The little Raleigh may fit the conventional bill on sizing, but it not so quick! It is however a most satisfactory bike for slightly slower progress. 

Ride safe! George

Your ability to perceive differences in speed between two steel frames continues to amaze.

Dear Winki,

Oh, I cannot perceive this accurately without help, but an electronic speedo gives a good account on single journeys and over as long as you care not to reset the average speed.

I am not guessing at this! Electronic aids are impartial judges of performance ...

ATB from George

PS: It is peculiar about perception, as the Carlton has that ability to go a bit faster than it feels. The Raleigh has the obvious disadvantage of the relatively upright riding position induced by the Thorn handle bar, and lower overall gearing. But it certain feels nippy. But average speeds over a four week period give much clearer idea of actual performance than what it feels like.

The summer has departed us and today I dug out my Exposure Six Pack front light which I think is 2,000 Lumens (the latest version is 4,000!).  Sounds excessive, especially for my London commute, but setting on flash mode it vastly improves my visibility without blinding motorists.

This week I have also replaced my near 10 year old right side dura ace ergo - I replaced the 7800 with the more recent 7900 and must say I prefer the feel of the older model.  So I now have a 7800 left chainset ergo and 7900 right ergo.  Main thing is that I am now able to change gear!

Peter

Dear Peter,

I could not cope with Ergo brake-lever/gear shifters!

I am still on down-tube shifters! The brake levers on the Carlton are Gran Sport from forty plus year ago, and still work as well as anything since. Modulation is extremely precise. Power to stop is never in doubt. But I do use Shimano Ultegra Brake blocks, and that is an advance. On both bikes.

Best wishes from George

Of course you could cope with STI/ergopower. They're much easier to use. No downsides. Super reilable, and just a fraction heavier. You might think that your ancient GS brakes are the business, but trust me, they're way, way less powerful and controllable than modern twin-pivot calipers.

Disc brakes infinitely better than any type of rim - controllability, performance in wet, life of pads, removal of wheel: no downside at all.

meanwhile I have to say I dont like the combined brake lever/ gear shifters on my bike at all - does nothing for control of gears. Best I had was bar mounted gear shifters with positive click and number indicator in case you forget which gear you're in. Those would be perfect with my Cane Creek Crosstop additional brake levers on the horizontal part of my drop bars, where I have my hands 90% of the time - though probably difficult to find space for both!

How do combined brake/gear levers "do nothing for control of the gears"? They certainly allow me (and millions of others) to easily and effectively control my gears, and from the hand positions I use 80% of the time. Of all the innovation over the past 30 years, I'd rate STI/Ergopower as the best of them all, closely followed by clipless pedals.

And wow, surprised to learn that my brakes apparently don't work it all.

I think that independent tests I have read about road disc systems vs road rim brake systems (as opposed to MTB) have suggested that absolute braking performance may not be that different. Modulation, heat dissipation and wet weather performance may be more of advantages for disc. I think road rim brake systems are pretty powerful and easy to use. I have not ridden a road specific disc system.

I don't think the excellence of MTB disc brakes should be automatically assumed to apply to road disc systems.

My Campag ergo levers are completely intuitive to use, comfortable and effective.

Bruce

I have a road-cross bike / tourer with disc brakes, the frame is not unlike a pure road bike from the same artisan builder. My feeling is that the disc brakes are a constant source of irritation, even if they have some stopping advantage. On the same roads I have never had the problems with rim brakes (Campy skeletons) in terms of stopping and truing brake pads, trying to avoid wobble rub, that I  have had with the disc brakes.

At least with rims, you can see how much rubber you have left. I was somewhat embarrassed in Italy when I found myself descending with only a functional front disc. Road discsmpads are more sensitive than their MTB kin.You also have to think a lot more about fork and axle design for road discs. I can imagine things are improving, as technology and design evolve, but it's not really fair to compare MTB with road discs as you need to consider one runs with a 140 -160 mm and the other with >200. Most standard flat bar tourers are equipped with MTB brakes - the cross hybrids that seem to be drifting on to the road scene are not.

Like Winky, I think STI / Ergopower levers are totally fit for purpose and for me much more intuitive and easier to use than MTB systems, but that's probably because >80% of my riding is with that system

For reference, my discs are factory standard on a road bike, and I admit this is my only experience of discs on a push-bike. But my experience is that in really wet conditions (like when you wish you were in a car, or better still at home!) there is no deterioration in ability of the brakes to slow down the wheels, unlike every other bike I've ridden since I first learnt to ride over 50 years ago, with probably a dozen variations of brake design. What of course is a primary limiting factor is road adhesion, which ultimately limits the performance whatever system is fitted. The difference with discs is that it becomes easier to lock the wheels when adhesion is poor, rather than requiring greater applied force - once that point is reached, loss of road grip if not controlled by easing off will be the same for any brake type.

Agree with pretty much all of that Huw

I think that when wheel/hub/fork development really follows a wholesale shift to road discs we will see more advantages. I guess most of us won't use road discs in the sort of conditions that chew through MTB pads so that may be less of an issue but point taken about wear.

These things develop fast. The first carbon road rims and pads were apparently a bit grim in terms of stopping especially in the damp. I just bought my first set of carbon road rims and with new pad compounds the difference in braking to aluminium now seems minimal

Bruce