Cartridge cleaning

+1 for the AT 637  .......... They are a must have for any serious vinyl-head.     However the time has come & I'm moving on from vinyl & along with the trusty old Rega Planar-3 it will be finding a new home.   

The Strat (Fender) posted:

I thought Dynavector specifically advised against using a vibrator. 

On the other hand, Ann Summers is something of an advocate. 

And as it happens the AT637 & Ann Summers make music better 

Well guys I have an AT 637 and yes it's good but with both my Dynavectors the notes specifically advise against using it.  I can only so advise and say that I find the Zerodust the most effective solution.

TonyM - I've never been one for experimenting with vibrators - each to own of course.

The Strat (Fender) posted:

I thought Dynavector specifically advised against using a vibrator.

That was my understanding too but my dealer pooh-poohed it. So I've used my AT637 too. Basically, pretty much anything but blowing. And the little DV carbon fibre brush is excellent as, I'm glad to say, the OP has found.

C.

With all this talk of vibrators and blowing I was wondering if I was still on the Naim forum 

I used a AT vibrator for many years but it finely gave up the ghost, I had nothing drop off in all the time I used it 

I now use Zerodust and it works wonders, just a quick dunk and your good to go 

Bear in mind the AT wasn't the only vibrating stylus cleaner available.

Has anyone tried a drop of Fairy Liquid in warmish water and a small (artists) paint brush?

dektop100 posted:

My Dynavector xx2 has a very fine hair stubbornly attached to the cantelever close to the stylus - and I'd like to get rid of it. It's finer than one I recently removed with tweezers - in fact I didn't know it was there until I viewed the cartridge with a magnifier. It's so small I think tweezers may cause damage. It's presence may be catalysing a build up of 'fluff' retrieval. I've also tried the 'green stuff' and an Audiotech 'vibro pad' thing - but with no success. Is there a cleaning fluid I could try that won't unglue the stylus?

Dektop, 

I note the interesting and even contradictory replies here and I have been asked to chime in with comments which will help/clarify a little:

Firstly, if you were to get your dealer to remove your XX2 and send send it to Dynavector's importers for inspection cleaning, the first thing that they would do is blow most of the accumulated rubbish around the stylus and cantilever away using compressed gas! 

As for cleaning "build-up" the stylus tip specifically and having a microscope to check results that I get - Here are my personal findings.

Basic stylus brush ineffective for material accreted to the stylus.

Sticky pads - Some removal of accretions, but insufficiently good for me - Tried Onzo.

Stylus vibrators -   Some removal of accretions, but insufficiently good for me - Tried AT637 

Green Paper - If used carefully avoiding abrasion to the cantilever - Works well but leaves residue of fractured accretion all over the stylus and cantilever.

SPT - Works well, removing accreted material well in the main.

Green Paper then SPT - Fracturing the build up on the stylus tip first and then using SPT on it's brush has given me the best results so far.

Best regards to all.

Peter

Peter,

A nice and concise report based on experience and findings.

Thanks.

Richard

Healthy debate is always fun.

I've used the AT637 for 25 years and never had a problem damaging any cartridge. It has it's uses, but it won't remove the tough residues that tend to appear to be caked on. The diamond buries itself into the carbon fibres and is gently shaken. Loose debris is found on the carpet of fibres, indicating it's doing something. It's a safe way of removing loosely coated diamonds and cantilevers, without having to resort to probing with brushes.

If you take a close look at the extremely fine wires on a cartridge such as the Kaitora, compressed air could easily break, weaken or at the least, change the path in which they lie. They are very sensitive to position and very close to each other! Although a blower-brush is a slightly safer option, I don't see the benefit of potentially blowing the very finest particles of diamond/vinyl dust into the innards of the chambers where microscopic movements are being measured. Anything loose enough to be removed by air, can easily be removed with a fine soft bristled brush. Just take care with your hands.  In any precision industry, the idea that someone use compress air to clean a delicate product, would be frowned upon. The same would be for optical instruments/lenses. The dust on the surface of a lens would unnecessarily be propelled into the internal lenses and mechanical mechanisms, where it does harm. 

My exact cleaning method is:

1st, few strokes with the Dynavector carbon brush. Removes loose debris.

2nd, few strokes with Linn green paper. Removes caked-on debris. 

3rd, few more strokes with the Dynavector brush to remove the caked-on debris that's now loose, but hanging on via static.

4th, gentle brush with a very soft fine brush along cantilever & diamond, to finish off.

5th, after this I have a wide soft make-up brush I used to pick up the debris that's fallen onto the Keel.

This sounds long-winded, but actually takes less than a minute.

Every now and then (10lps) , I'll use the AT637 .

That's similar to what I do - green paper then a buzz with the AT.

Just read my post and there's so many word mistakes. Sorry, I didn't proofread, but hopefully you get my gist.

I've always cleaned by needle with the green paper / AT637 combination too.

I've only ever used the AT dry, but I remember that it came with a bottle of cleaning fluid (long misplaced). Has anyone used it "wet"? If so, how? 

Well I maintain that you can't beat a good dunking in the putty.  

cgarden posted:

I've always cleaned by needle with the green paper / AT637 combination too.

I've only ever used the AT dry, but I remember that it came with a bottle of cleaning fluid (long misplaced). Has anyone used it "wet"? If so, how? 

I've found the AT637 + fluid effective on those rare occasions where nothing else seems to remove the accumulated buildup. What I do is put a couple of drops on the pad, then wait until it's almost dry before using it. By "almost dry" I mean that there's no visible sheen from the moisture, rather the pad takes on a dull, leathery appearance. This minimises the risk of the pad sending droplets of the fluid into the body of the cartridge. It's very effective, but I still think it's somewhat risky, and so I only use it when all else fails.

I have a bottle of SPT, which I use for the claimed SQ benefits (which I find to be mostly true). I'll be interested to try the SPT + green paper next time the need arises.

Corry,

try putting the SPT on the AT637. Works well IME.

Martin

Thanks guys. I think I'll try SPT when the need arises.

Reading the description, it does sound vaguely homeopathic, but I guess that's not unusual in audiophile products.