NACA5 - adding a metre extension?

Posted by: Tarquin Maynard-Portly on 07 November 2016

Bonkers, maybe...

My c.14 meter run of NACA5 is juuuust too short for use in my new place. 

I'm considering new cables but >28m won't be cheap. So...

As odd as it might sound, what about having two c.1m lengths made up; each with a male and a female end, so that I have effectively extended the NACA to the required length...

TIA

MIke

Posted on: 08 November 2016 by hungryhalibut

That's what I was thinking, Mike. Try it where the magazine rack is. If you can get the LP12 on the tight hand rack of two, it won't be that close to the speakers. 

Posted on: 08 November 2016 by Tarquin Maynard-Portly

There are two sockets on the RH wall and quite a few on the "facing" wall - I have both a Musicworks Megablock, and a decent homebrew extension cable with a Crabtree plug for use on that wall. The latter is white cabling so less visible. Likely to use that for Lingo; Musicworks behind main rig...

The joys of reconstruction loom...

Posted on: 08 November 2016 by BigH47
tonym posted:
Hungryhalibut posted:

In that case the easiest thing to do is to get two 1m leads made up and see if the sound gets worse. It may well be that having an extra chunk soldered on would be better, as it would avoid the extra connection, which can't be good for the sound. 

Just solder the extra lengths on. Done properly, you won't hear anything bad.

I'm with Tony on this one. Central to this plan is the word "properly",  an inch of parralel copper, solder flowing into all crevices and of course well insulated. I never actually done this with NACA5, but I can't imagine it would make any audible difference.

Posted on: 08 November 2016 by winkyincanada
Tarquin Maynard-Portly posted:
winkyincanada posted:

You can install extra outlets even if you're renting. I can't figure out how you're going to route the speaker cables.

Its early days - I'd rather not ask at the moment. Even with extra outlets the possible locations for the kit are very limited... See below...

Routing around the walls, above the skirting board. The NACA is white. 

So over the doorway then?

Is the large bookcase one of those flimsy Ikea things made of weeta-bix? Might be time to get rid of it for a something with a more flexible configuration.

Posted on: 08 November 2016 by jon h

Solder on the extra cable. You will need a VERY sturdy soldering iron, but it can be done. Heatshrink etc and it will be fine

I'm trying to remember how long JV's listening room was at Odstock? It wasnt quite that long, but it was a *LOT* of NACA5 cable for his active DBLs. I'm sure my memory is overstating the size, but it was a big room

Maybe Richard can remember?

Posted on: 08 November 2016 by Got Hi-Fi?

If it were me, I would ditch the bookshelf and replace it with something that fits in. However, if you are going to go the solder route, make sure the Iron you use goes up to at least 350c, 400c even better. NACA is thick and will cool the tip fast, and in order to get a good flow of solder, you need plenty of heat. 

Posted on: 08 November 2016 by Tarquin Maynard-Portly

Well, I've gone for this option. Might have a bit of a trip hazard behind the sofa...

Posted on: 08 November 2016 by DrMark

That looks pretty good.

Why is the TT in the corner? Doesn't that increase your concern about the speaker being so close to it? (Plus I could see myself bumping that SBL while changing a record...although I will allow that you are probably not as clumsy as I!)

Posted on: 08 November 2016 by Mike-B

A corner is a bad place for a TT, LF & maximum SPL's can get arms  & carts jumping around.   Its where you put bass traps to kill excessive bass.  I would move it to the other end of the IsoBlue  

Posted on: 08 November 2016 by Huge

Mike, the SPL in maximum in the corners, but the SVL is a minimum - actually the LF sound energy level is the same across the whole room.  Bass traps are place in corners as they are pressure mode devices.

TTs and cartridges respond more to environmental movement rather than to air pressure and here corners are often more rigid, transmitting less energy into the TT.  Not as clear cut as often assumed.

Posted on: 08 November 2016 by Mike-B

Huge,  all I know is what a corner did for my Rega, the effect of an open or closed lid was very much more pronounced in the corner.  

Posted on: 09 November 2016 by bluedog
winkyincanada posted:

You can install extra outlets even if you're renting. I can't figure out how you're going to route the speaker cables.

I'd be very cross if my tenants made any kind of alteration to the wiring without permission; I can't be bothered to check the lease agreement right now, but I'd be very surprised if there were not provisions to that effect included.

Posted on: 09 November 2016 by Phil Harris
BigH47 posted:
tonym posted:
Hungryhalibut posted:

In that case the easiest thing to do is to get two 1m leads made up and see if the sound gets worse. It may well be that having an extra chunk soldered on would be better, as it would avoid the extra connection, which can't be good for the sound. 

Just solder the extra lengths on. Done properly, you won't hear anything bad.

I'm with Tony on this one. Central to this plan is the word "properly",  an inch of parralel copper, solder flowing into all crevices and of course well insulated. I never actually done this with NACA5, but I can't imagine it would make any audible difference.

I had to extend a couple of NAC-A5 leads at my old flat and I used a couple of copper "tube" type connectors intended for crimping. I drilled a few holes in them which meant it was nice and easy to get them on my big fat 200w Wella soldering iron and feed solder into them and then heat shrink them...

Phil

Posted on: 09 November 2016 by tonym

I had success soldering a bit onto the NACA5 in my second system using a cheapie 75 watt iron. 

Posted on: 09 November 2016 by jon h

I measured our rega here in the lab. A notable peak at about 65Hz if you put the stylus onto the record, with the record not turning. So just picking up vibrations. The lid acts like a large microphone for low frequency, subsonic noise in the air. And it rings at about 65Hz (or thereabouts, from memory). And this energy goes straight into the turntable. Well worth taking the lid off, and if you do the big peak goes away.

Posted on: 09 November 2016 by Got Hi-Fi?
tonym posted:

I had success soldering a bit onto the NACA5 in my second system using a cheapie 75 watt iron. 

a 75w is capable of temps much higher than needed even, so yes, a 75w would do the job plenty, even if using silver solder. 

Posted on: 09 November 2016 by tonym

It's not so much the temperature, more the quantity of heat available from a large copper soldering bit, with the wattage to heat it up properly.

Posted on: 09 November 2016 by Tarquin Maynard-Portly
DrMark posted:

That looks pretty good.

Why is the TT in the corner? Doesn't that increase your concern about the speaker being so close to it? (Plus I could see myself bumping that SBL while changing a record...although I will allow that you are probably not as clumsy as I!)

TT in that place because the interconnects where too short between Flatcap and amp. By putting the flatcap under the amp - on the Isoblue - I could reach the amp and so moved the TT to the position shown below.

I've only had time to listen to one bit of vinyl but it sounds pretty darn good to me - as does my CDX2.2 - which is just as well, as I'm expecting  a rather large delivery of early Pink Floyd stuff on friday ( anyone fancy a soiree let me know)

Thanks to all for the suggestions but HH in the main.

 

Posted on: 09 November 2016 by hungryhalibut

Well done Mike, it looks good. Have you thought of removing the Isoblue extensions as you don't need them and it would reduce the height a smidge and look nicer? Lovely SBLs by the way, much nicer than my black ones you first had. The beech is by far the nicest colour in my opinion. 

Posted on: 09 November 2016 by Tarquin Maynard-Portly
Hungryhalibut posted:

Well done Mike, it looks good. Have you thought of removing the Isoblue extensions as you don't need them and it would reduce the height a smidge and look nicer? Lovely SBLs by the way, much nicer than my black ones you first had. The beech is by far the nicest colour in my opinion. 

Set them up like that from force of habit when I had 252/300. I still have a Nakamichi 680 to put in but good suggestion - was considering it.

The SBLs are sounding fab - you put me on the path, thank you. HERESY ALERT - when I put them back together last night I used the old seals HA! Matched the pins up 100% and I know they're sealed correctly because I did the "push the 8"driver in and see if it oozes out" test - which they passed...

Want to keep the LP12 in the corner to avoid wine-fulled nudging on entry to the room...

Posted on: 09 November 2016 by Christopher_M
Tarquin Maynard-Portly posted:

 

Are the SBLs far enough apart? I'm not being funny.

C.

Posted on: 09 November 2016 by Tarquin Maynard-Portly

Needs must mon ami.

One day I might get a BFO flat screen TV and space will free up; but for now, the Aconda takes up the corner...

 

Posted on: 09 November 2016 by hungryhalibut

I guess that socket on the wall is ideal for a flatscreen. Until then, stick a picture over it. 

I agree about the LP12 - if it was on the right it would be rather vulnerable. It all seems to have come together rather well. In fact, the thread could have just been called 'help me design my room'... much more fun that talking about boring soldering. 

Posted on: 09 November 2016 by Solid Air

I agree! I'm seriously thinking I should've got the forum hive-mind on the design of my room before we rebuilt it. Too late now :-(

Posted on: 10 November 2016 by tonym

I really think that tears For Fears LP cover needs centralising on the speaker. Or better still, place exactly between the two. I find it very vexatious...