Lp12 trampoline

achique99 posted:

My LP12 sounded nicer before I upgraded old baseboard to trampoline 2 early this year. But it came together with new Krystal, 5m NACA5 and Linn T-Kable. I can't be bothered as the new cart and cable need to run in. Although there are changes in the music it produce, i think the previous DV20X2 performed better. 

As time passing by, about 50hours running in, then I did another tweaking of the LP12, then it starts singing. It was tweak with a new springs & gromets.

Had them tweaked again yesterday, listening to Daft Punk, Random Access Memory, from my memory, I realized the deck now singing better compared to the demo I had at Gaddesby Lane!!!

***Peter, pls dnt be mad, because I am running active now & I believe it will be more Fantastic if they were calibrated by you!

Cheers

Not at all. As I mentioned, the fitting and dressing of a T-Kable takes time and practise and I am glad you are mastering this now.

Now you are active, the system will reveal much more when nicely set-up so I would expect you to easily hear the effects of your 

"tweak with a new springs & gromets." 

Yes, I would really like to visit at some point. I'm sure there will be opportunities in the future and I'd love to see and visit the Petronas Towers

KR

Peter

Loki posted:

 Where does the fine fettler of Leicester sit on this conundrum?

It very much depends on what the LP12 is sited on.

One thing for certain is that much of the push for bottomless in the early days was because as standard the hardboard base tended to rattle and this really degrades the sound. Likewise the later solid base and Trampolin 1 did too.  A well fitted solid base with extra fixings and correctly shimmed feet sounded much better than a Tramp1. 

People using Mana spending great time and energy ensuring everything was 100% correct with their stands including the ring of the support glass beneath the LP12 would on occasion unknowingly place their LP12 in it with a rattly base (this may well have been after the deck had been serviced!)   So, when experimenting later and removing the rattly base, it's hardly a surprise (IMHO) that it sounded better.

Rattling anywhere on an LP12 is bad news, whether base, top-plate or suspension, you don't want it.  The new Solid Base and Trampolin 2 are so much better, not just because they are stronger, heavier, earthed but because if fitted correctly they do not rattle and increase the rigidity of the plinth (particularly with older pre-corner-braced plinths). A total of 10 fixings to secure the modern bases to the plinths really helps so much! The interface strips if correctly applied also help eliminate rattles between base and plinth and this has to be good too in addition.

So, my advice: If you have Mana, check out the Solid Baseboard. For most other supports, the Trampolin 2 will deliver more musical results. Opinions may differ, tastes may differ. Systems undoubtedly will vary, so try and check things out first with your retailer if you can.

I hope these comments are of use.

KR

Peter

I also found that the effect of Tramploline 2 is support dependent. On the majority of racks it is doing the job very well. It's the best thing on Fraim.

I found the opposite with the top level of Finite Elemente - Master Reference. We had to change to the standard LP12 feet for best results. It seems that this support is doing some of the job of the floating feet. 

In addition it was undecided on the entry level of Finite Elemente. 

Not really related to the Trampolin 2 question but I've been using one of the latest solid base boards on my late 80's LP12 with better results with the deck sitting on a Sound Organisation table when compared to the original base board in or out so Peter does have a point, as usual. However (and this also applies to the Trampolin 2) how do you go about with that particular fixing hole at the back that goes exactly over one  of the mains or Lingo clamp screw? I left it empty but I was wondering if you should drill a new hole both at the base and the plinth slightly to the left.

Cheers

When I fitted a Trampoline 2 I thought things improve greatly over the standard base and small rubber feet but I am now using a Quadraspire wall shelf so things have changed and so too my thoughts so as I am always keen to tweek so next week I am going to have a session with and without but I think I will be keeping it in place, now where did I put the old base board and feet? 

kota posted:

Not really related to the Trampolin 2 question but I've been using one of the latest solid base boards on my late 80's LP12 with better results with the deck sitting on a Sound Organisation table when compared to the original base board in or out so Peter does have a point, as usual. However (and this also applies to the Trampolin 2) how do you go about with that particular fixing hole at the back that goes exactly over one  of the mains or Lingo clamp screw? I left it empty but I was wondering if you should drill a new hole both at the base and the plinth slightly to the left.

Cheers

 

 

 

Yes Kota, the spacing/layout of the 10 Solid Base or Trampolin 2 fixing points means that on the older plinths, the fixing position at the rear behind the motor position must be ignored, as it lines up pretty much with the position on the plinth where the power cable used to exit!! Not good if you were to try to put a screw in there 

Personally, I think it's reasonable to drill another hole in the Trampolin 2 to further secure the base if you feel any flex or movement in the contact area. However, if the fit seems snug and does not seem to move, then leaving the screw out is also an option as it is unlikely to cause any issues. Much comes down to how the contact feels and this will in greater part be determined by how flat the old plinth is, any movement wants to be removed however.

I hope this answer makes sense and is of use to you in making the decision to drill or not to drill?

KR

Peter

Thanks Peter. That makes sense and I'm pretty sure my new solid base board is quite snug and tight but being a perfectionist (within reason and money wise) I've got nothing to lose by adding the missing screw by drilling another hole.

Since I'm at it, let me ask you something else if I may. There's a velvet like strip that runs across the perimeter of the base which I reckon should be touching the plinth's recessed bottom where the screws go. Mine is quite far inside the base and there's no contact at all with the plinth. Will I destroy it if I pull it out and glue it back where I think it belongs?

Cheers

Pedro