NDX to ROUTER ETHERNET CABLES

I use audioquest cinammon between Core and switch, and then switch to Nova, plus router to switch. Sounded cleaner, clearer than usual amazon cheap cables, but should be for the price. I would imagine the Chord or QED would be OK.

I also use Audioquest Cinammon in places where I know RFI is a problem - yes it makes a small difference, a bit clearer and smoother top end, but not a large difference. I assume this is caused by the reduction in the RFI I bought it for.

I also have a 15m run of UTP from upstairs to down - running in the wall (NAS/router/switch to Nova) - the Audioquest connects the devices at either end (switch to NAS, switch to router, switch to wall socket 1, wall socket 2 to Nova). There's several "noisy" devices near each end of this run, hence the AQ.

I use a long run of Meicord from router to dedicated switch and then a Supra cat8 from switch to 272. The Meicord is a better sounding cable giving a slightly wider soundstage and a slightly cleaner sound. At some point I’ll change the Supra I think. 

I used to have Supra Cat7A between NAS & Switch & NDX,  & an AQ Pearl between switch & router.       I had Supra RJ45 clips break in the metal Netgear ports,  I looked around for a better RJ45 plug clip & found that the Meicord looked more like it.  I had some doubts about the ethernet screen,  its effectiveness/need in a domestic environment & also what extra noise it might be adding.  (I did say doubts)   Also the bandwidth 600MHz +++ of the Cat7A is way more than needed for 100Base-T (31.25MHz)   Whatever I bit the bullet & went to Meicord,  at the same time I changed the AQ Pearl to the router with a Lindy Cat6.     The change was a good move with slightly better in all areas of SQ.    I've since changed the Netgear switch to a Cisco SG110,  another small step good move.  

I use a relatively expensive ethernet cable from the NDS to the RJ-45 wall socket, but it's a good 100 feet from there to my nas.  Basic cat 5 cable for that long run I'm afraid.

I recently changed stock cables to AQ Cinnamon between nas & router, router & switch, switch & 272.

Slightly ‘cleaner’ sounding...maybe.

G

With my Atom then Nova I went Amazon ethernet to Supra 8, a very worthwhile subtle but noticeable improvement- my setup being from a Cisco 2960 to Nova.

nocker posted:

Has anyone experience of trying different quality ethernet cables?

Looking at Chord C Stream or QED Graphite as a starter!

You can try cheap cables of different types and you may be pleasantly surprised... you really don’t need to spend a lot on Ethernet cables for optimum performance, but buying cheap cables can be a bit of a lottery... but a few pence per metre means you don’t loose out on much.

One thing is for certain in this uncertain world, the more you spend the better it is!

Make sure to spend at least £1000 on an ethernet lead otherwise your hifi will sound crap, and no one wants that, (accept the companies selling you boutique ethernet cables)

A yellow one from Toolstation. About a quid. Does a fine job. Spend money saved on records and cd’s

Has anyone tried ferrite clamps on Ethernet cables?There are some guys on the Chord Dave head-fi forum using them.I have some ferrites I can try,just wondering if it makes any sense.

Yes, it makes a difference. If you want to pay for it or not is a different story. 

//Jonas

No quarter posted:

Has anyone tried ferrite clamps on Ethernet cables?There are some guys on the Chord Dave head-fi forum using them.I have some ferrites I can try,just wondering if it makes any sense.

Yes a few of us use them,  me probably more than most.   The thing is it costs peanuts to try them & if you can't detect anything audible it won't make the SQ worse.    Problem is is not as simple as just trying some you may have laying around,  there are numbers of ferrous & other metals formulas to change how & what the ferrite does.    I see you are from Canada so I guess the Fair-Rite brand is the most popular over there.    I have the eq of Fair-Rite 31 on my ethernet - see drawing -  they are just normal basic 'Snap-Its' split cores & mix 31 is effective across a range of 1MHz & 300MHz.    If you don't have a switch, I would try a ferrite on each end of your ethernets.    I have an extra ferrite on my router to switch branch as I'm aware of the noise that can come in via phone & the routers SMPS.       Talking of which,  a lot noise can come from some SMPS,  so I have all my SMPS's 'surrounded' by ferrite.  But because SMPS's work in a range between (aprx) 25KHz & 3MHz,  ferrite mix 31 is not effective & I use Fair-Rite 75 for this job.  75 is effective from 100KHz to 10MHz (max at 2MHz),  but keep in mind no ferrite exists that works much below 100KHz.   Anyhow,  give it a shot,  happy play time.  Lets us know ho you get on.  I will go have a read on Chord Dave Head-Fi forum later.

Using 2 chord c-stream between NAS and switch ,switch to Naim streamer.

It made a sensible difference over generic ones as did the ifi power supply on the switch. The same power supply was at the beginning used in my previous set-up when I had no switch, therefore on the router. That resulted in a poorer sound ,in fact I also tried the direct ,single run connection between nas and streamer (that was made possible  having the nas a dhcp server but obviously just working for the streaming of the Nas content-no radio ,no tidal etc. ) and was by a large margin the best.

Anyway , never tried ,and still haven't ,a better ethernet cable from router to switch as thought it was unimportant , wasn't it then ?

Also wondering whether any of the 3 should be plugged into the 5 netger GS105 ports according to a particular order?

AQ Vodka from NASs to dedicated switch. C-Stream from switch to NDS. Makes a big difference. No idea why. I've heard it referred to as "the magic metre".

Ferrite rings appear to make no difference. But they are so inexpensive that I've left them in place. Unlike cable, that's something you can investigate cheaply.

The above applies only to my system and ears. Yours may vary.

Antonio1 posted:

Using 2 chord c-stream between NAS and switch ,switch to Naim streamer.

It made a sensible difference over generic ones as did the ifi power supply on the switch. The same power supply was at the beginning used in my previous set-up when I had no switch, therefore on the router. That resulted in a poorer sound ,in fact I also tried the direct ,single run connection between nas and streamer (that was made possible  having the nas a dhcp server but obviously just working for the streaming of the Nas content-no radio ,no tidal etc. ) and was by a large margin the best.

Anyway , never tried ,and still haven't ,a better ethernet cable from router to switch as thought it was unimportant , wasn't it then ?

Also wondering whether any of the 3 should be plugged into the 5 netger GS105 ports according to a particular order?

It's interesting that you find the direct connection between NAS and streamer to be the best option, in other words: eliminating network devices (router & switch).
I can't understand how did you make the configuration. How did you connect the naim app to the streamer?
The NAS was also the Wi-Fi distributor?

BP.

Antonio1,  Re:  "a better ethernet cable from router to switch as thought it was unimportant"   ........  I don't believe the router to switch line is so important,  as in a "better" ethernet such as another C-Stream.  I've swapped my old AQ Pearl with a crush damaged Cat5 (not even Cat5e) freebee & heard no difference.  I now have an ordinary Cat6 on that leg.    I do however have ferrite split clamps on both ends of it as I suspect there is noise/hash coming from overhead phone-lines via the router.  

Harry,  you say ferrite rings,  do you really mean rings or is it the split core clamps. 

by simply routing the nas sinology 216j to the streamer, acting just like an HD I believe(in settings wireless mode OFF as it was ethernet routed).

No naim app in use I just used the remote. 

Obviously I couldn't listen to radio , streaming from services etc.

Audioquest Vodka between NAS and switch and the same brand - Cinnamon between switch and the streamer. Better sound stage and much more detailed than with "chinese cheap crap"

Mike-B posted:

No quarter posted:

Has anyone tried ferrite clamps on Ethernet cables?There are some guys on the Chord Dave head-fi forum using them.I have some ferrites I can try,just wondering if it makes any sense.

Yes a few of us use them,  me probably more than most.   The thing is it costs peanuts to try them & if you can't detect anything audible it won't make the SQ worse.    Problem is is not as simple as just trying some you may have laying around,  there are numbers of ferrous & other metals formulas to change how & what the ferrite does.    I see you are from Canada so I guess the Fair-Rite brand is the most popular over there.    I have the eq of Fair-Rite 31 on my ethernet - see drawing -  they are just normal basic 'Snap-Its' split cores & mix 31 is effective across a range of 1MHz & 300MHz.    If you don't have a switch, I would try a ferrite on each end of your ethernets.    I have an extra ferrite on my router to switch branch as I'm aware of the noise that can come in via phone & the routers SMPS.       Talking of which,  a lot noise can come from some SMPS,  so I have all my SMPS's 'surrounded' by ferrite.  But because SMPS's work in a range between (aprx) 25KHz & 3MHz,  ferrite mix 31 is not effective & I use Fair-Rite 75 for this job.  75 is effective from 100KHz to 10MHz (max at 2MHz),  but keep in mind no ferrite exists that works much below 100KHz.   Anyhow,  give it a shot,  happy play time.  Lets us know ho you get on.  I will go have a read on Chord Dave Head-Fi forum later.

Thanks for the info Mike,I use the split core clamps,they are 7mm inside diameter I believe,but I am not sure what frequency range they cover.They were purchased off Amazon,by a friend I work with,we split on a box of 20.I have no switch,just a router,with two Ethernet cables,one to the Core,the other to the 272,so I ended up using 8 of them,2 per end,on each cable.The reason I bought them originally was for the USB cable I was using between my iPad and the Hugo 2 I was demoing a while back.They really seemed to make the noise floor no existent in that case,but I am not sure I hear much on the Ethernet cables,but I was really happy with the sound to begin with.I was more concerned that I might be somehow damaging the signal on the Ethernet...so I will leave them on I guess.

Hi NQ,  the SQ changes with ferrite on ethernet is subtle,  its nothing like a cable or box change,  for me it adds a clarity, removes a dullness & treble end fine detail is better.      Not knowing the ferrite operating range is concerning,  if Amazon's seller has not listed the spec's they might be any-old-thing,   ideally you need a wideband somewhere from 1 MHz to 100MHz or even better to 500MHz.     If you can give me some clues with make & model numbers I happy to have a go to track down the spec's if they are available.      

I use chord c-stream from nas to switch and switch to streamer. Also ifi ipower on switch all of which made incremental improvements. I am tempted to try aq cables but I have made a lot of changes recently and think I need to just take stock for now.

A question for Mike-B, I have experimented with some ferrite clamps but I have no idea of their operating band. I will look to try others. However would you recommend the same spec for other household electronics such as fridges, freezers phones etc? 

Hi Stuart,  what noise from fridges & freezers do you want to suppress,  no ferrite will work below 100KHz & your power is 50Hz.   Modern domestic equipment has to comply with 50Hz noise & EMI/RFI emission regulations & unless you have a defective or very old fridge,  I question what noise you have a concern about.    If you really do want to try adding something then I suggest ferrite(s) on the audio power supply line acting as a blocker for whatever noise the power line might carry.   

The phone line can be usefully suppressed with a ferrite on both the SMPS DC power supply & the phone line itself.  The same can be done with the broadband hub (router)    I use low frequency 100KHz-10MHz ferrites for this suppressing any SMPS noise & the random phone line noise.     As all these wires are small diameter I pass them a few times around the ferrite, see pic.  I typically get 4 passes,  this dramatically increases impedance  (x square of the number of turns)        

Your problem might be finding supplies in the low frequency range,  places like the big river either don't have spec's or if they do they are invariably high fs (too high) general purpose.    I use people like Mouser & RS,  problem is (unlike Amazon) they are all  +VAT & + shipping

Mike-B posted:

Hi Stuart,  what noise from fridges & freezers do you want to suppress,  no ferrite will work below 100KHz & your power is 50Hz.   Modern domestic equipment has to comply with 50Hz noise & EMI/RFI emission regulations & unless you have a defective or very old fridge,  I question what noise you have a concern about.    If you really do want to try adding something then I suggest ferrite(s) on the audio power supply line acting as a blocker for whatever noise the power line might carry.   

The phone line can be usefully suppressed with a ferrite on both the SMPS DC power supply & the phone line itself.  The same can be done with the broadband hub (router)    I use low frequency 100KHz-10MHz ferrites for this suppressing any SMPS noise & the random phone line noise.     As all these wires are small diameter I pass them a few times around the ferrite, see pic.  I typically get 4 passes,  this dramatically increases impedance  (x square of the number of turns)        

Your problem might be finding supplies in the low frequency range,  places like the big river either don't have spec's or if they do they are invariably high fs (too high) general purpose.    I use people like Mouser & RS,  problem is (unlike Amazon) they are all  +VAT & + shipping

Thanks Mike-B

Sorry for the delay in replying. Very busy weekend. My knowledge of physics is embarrassingly poor. I have read that household devices can introduce noise into sensitive Hifi electronics but I have never been sure where to apply ferrites - to the Hifi components or the appliances.

I am not noticing any noise as such (apart from increased transformer hum on nap when the hairdryer is being used). All appliances are pretty new so I guess shouldn't be a problem. However I have added some ferrites to the phone line but not the router. As I pointed out I have no idea of their operating frequency but will look at your recommendations and give them a try for phones and router.

I don't notice any specific noise but am guessing there maybe some subtle improvements to replay. Worth a try for minimal outlay. 

Ferrite rings/beads are good to reduce RF interference on analogue cables.

I use the same wiring as #cymbiosis do in there new reail shop standard car5/cat6 cabling. The cat6 for speed. No fancy cables the guys use