Synergistic Research Plug Fuse

ANAVRIN - Best to leave it alone and just listen, depending on your return window, I would remove after a day or so and decide.

If you have to strain to hear a difference, then it is not worthwhile.

hungryhalibut posted:

4mm² - I’ve just worked out how to do superscript on the Forum. 

Its quite easy with a laptop but a bit of a PITA with a iPad or worse a phone.   I could say its me being lazy, which it is,  but it's a throw back to my old work life when we had to use mm/2 as a standard because that copied over to engineering software as is,  whereas the superscript would not.

Obsydian posted:

CE = Legal requirement

BS - Standard is voluntary

I read their website and rated it "BS" myself.

I have read this thread with some incredulity, and I am shocked (no pun intended) at some of the remarks and feel that it is important that I add some clarity to the debate.

Firstly, the purpose of the fuse is to protect the lead between the plug and the device to which it is connected and, to a lesser extent, the plug and ring main wiring.  It serves no other purpose.

Secondly, from a regulatory perspective, there are two principal ways of demonstrating that a plug or fuse is compliant - the Low Voltage Directive and the BSI Kitemark.

The Low Voltage Directive 2006/95/EC as amended by 2014/35/EU sets out the Essential Requirements in Annex 1, to which a device must comply before being placed on the market within the EU.  A manufacturer demonstrates compliance with these requirements through compliance with Harmonised Standards. These are technical standards that are adopted by CEN/CENELEC and carry an EN prefix and compliance with these lead to certification via a presumption of conformity.  This is achieved through a Notified Body.  They examine the technical file and test results, before certifying the product.

The Kitemark route is similar, with BSI acting as the Notified Body to determine compliance.

The critical issue here is whether or not these fuses are certified.  If there is no certification as described above, regardless of whether or not they comply, then it is almost certainly illegal to place them on the market within the EU, and that, for the time being, includes the UK.

Thirdly (and I am speculating here), isn't the issue here surely reducing the impedance of the line as much as possible?  I would wager that removing the fuse from the plug and giving it, and the plug contacts, a good clean with DeOxit would have the benefits the OP is seeking.  I know from experience that works for me, and costs a fraction of the £100+ it costs for a single fuse.

Mike-B posted:

hungryhalibut posted:

4mm² - I’ve just worked out how to do superscript on the Forum. 

Its quite easy with a laptop but a bit of a PITA with a iPad or worse a phone.   I could say its me being lazy, which it is,  but it's a throw back to my old work life when we had to use mm/2 as a standard because that copied over to engineering software as is,  whereas the superscript would not.

There’s a dropdown on the forum post entry box, shown with with an omega symbol Ω, from which you can find superscript 2 amongst other things. Otherwise the convention for square, cube etc is to use the up arrow, e.g. ^2, thus avoiding confusing with the divisor e.g. /2,

ursus262 posted:

I, isn't the issue here surely reducing the impedance of the line as much as possible?  I would wager that removing the fuse from the plug and giving it, and the plug contacts, a good clean with DeOxit would have the benefits the OP is seeking.  I know from experience that works for me, and costs a fraction of the £100+ it costs for a single fuse.

Yes. There are audiophile fuses you can get for not much £. Silver/gold or rhodium plated bussmans that have been DeOxit treated.

Anavrin posted:

Just for the record the fuse is in the plugtop and not in my Nova, which remains pure and unsullied, as I received it.

It does sound better today, the Nova itself is fairly new but the improvement is noticeable, and im sure the SR Blue fuse is a bigger contributor to the difference than just the Nova running in alone.

Interesting someone mentioned earlier that the full fat Power Line is a two core 4mm cable, is it not earthed?

ANAVRIN - Wondering how you concluded, SR Blue staying or in the post for a refund.

I am new to the world of Naim ownership and enjoyment having bought a MU-so qB last week. Not sure if it is burning in or I am getting used to it and trying various options.

As the MU-so is a figure 8 mains cable there is no Naim option to enhance the mains cabling. Do any of the fuse hearers think a SR fuse is likely to offer an audible change in the MU-so world? I am not rushing to try one as they are about 20% of the cost of the MU-so but in time curiosity might surface, lotto may surprise. I must confess that my knowledge of Physics stops at A level but I would be struggling to explain how a fuse could affect the sound. I have always been sceptical of magic.

An interesting thread nevertheless

I think the beauty of the MUSO (when i owned one), was place it anywhere, no tweaks required and it was enjoyable.

I did consider cables, supports, but never bothered as i just wanted to avoid upgraditus, but that quickly en-shewed.

Mu-So is a great little box but I’m not being facetious when I say that it doesn’t really do most of what the SR fuse will enhance. You’re probably better off spending your money on enhancing your network connection. For example, if you use a standard ISP provided router, buy yourself a better quality router and use the ISP unit in modem mode.  

The biggest SQ difference I achieved  with my Mu-So was using a streaming app in Native mode vs via Bluetooth or AirPlay.  Also, placing the Mu-So in a room corner and switching on ‘near wall mode’ will really help you achieve articulate bass. 

Brian H posted:

I am new to the world of Naim ownership and enjoyment having bought a MU-so qB last week. Not sure if it is burning in or I am getting used to it and trying various options.

As the MU-so is a figure 8 mains cable there is no Naim option to enhance the mains cabling. Do any of the fuse hearers think a SR fuse is likely to offer an audible change in the MU-so world? I am not rushing to try one as they are about 20% of the cost of the MU-so but in time curiosity might surface, lotto may surprise. I must confess that my knowledge of Physics stops at A level but I would be struggling to explain how a fuse could affect the sound. I have always been sceptical of magic.

An interesting thread nevertheless

For the price of a SR fuse you can get the excellent Nordost Purple Flare figure 8 mains cable.  Will tidy up the sound and looks great if using the Muso in a high eye traffic area.

I was experimenting with my muso QB a while back by swapping around the position of the figure 8 connector, hard to tell but I think it did sound slightly better one way than the other, unfortunately it was kids coming home from school time, which ended my quiet listening session and I’ve never tried it again, I might have another try with my big muso in another room.

Talking of MuSo’s my wife entered a Naim Audio competition on Facebook, To celebrate the launch of the champagne edition muso, she only went and won it!!

The prize was two tickets to any show at the Royal Albert Hall, plus a bottle of fizz to drink while your there ????

So big thankyou to Naim who have got us tickets to watch Cirque Du Soliel in January.

anyway, back on track, I’m still undecided about the blue fuse, I’m going to leave the Nova running most of tomorrow and the weekend, on Sunday, I’ll swap back to standard fuse, see if I notice a difference,

Well done on the QB win.

Obsydian posted:

Well done on the QB win.

Makes it sound like we won a muso!

prize was the tickets and fiz

Anavrin posted:

Obsydian posted:

Well done on the QB win.

Makes it sound like we won a muso!

prize was the tickets and fiz

I knew what you had won :-)

Ok so this morning, I tried my blue fuse the other way around, I couldn’t really hear much difference so I removed it and put the original 13amp fuse in the powerline lites plugtop, I was listening to the “Bothers In Arms” Album on vinyl.

At first I wasn’t convinced that there was much difference, but after a few minuites listening, and especially during the start of “Money for Nothing” I noticed something was lacking, it’s just wasn’t as open and dynamic as it normally is, so I put the little blue fuse back in and there it was, more open and more dynamic again. just as I had hoped.

I can compare difference it makes as almost as much a difference, adding a half decent phono stage to a cheap turntable, I have a £199 Audio Technica AT-LP3 which has its own phono stage, I also have the Rega Fono MM MK3 Phono Stage, also £199, last week I was experimenting with having the turntables own phono stage connected directly to the Nova, then with the Rega inline.

On its own the turntable was ok but not exciting to listlen to, with the Rega it it became much more dynamic and musical.

So as much I was considering sending this fuse back and thinking what else I could do with money it cost, it’s going to stay, strange how sometimes you don’t notice an improvement, until you get used to it and go back a step.

Anavrin good to hear, now the important part, give it a few weeks and report back, it's a bit of an up, up, ,up, down, UP burn In.

For me the post 3 week mark stabilized into something very special.

If you like the fuses try the supports MIG 2.0.

I’’ve looked at the MIG 2.0 supports, I’m sure they work but it not sure I’d pay the price for them.

Obsydian- Have you got a set?

Might try an find some hollow, half ball bearings for a fraction of the cost.

Anavrin posted:

I’’ve looked at the MIG 2.0 supports, I’m sure they work but it not sure I’d pay the price for them.

Obsydian- Have you got a set?

Might try an find some hollow, half ball bearings for a fraction of the cost.

Yes, I had them on demo and returned them say in little to marginal gain. I didn't go back an forth really.

Anyway after posting them back, listening to my system I realised how good they where and quickly ordered a set, they won't be going anywhere.

The combined effect is pretty amazing.

Obsydian posted:

Anavrin posted:

I’’ve looked at the MIG 2.0 supports, I’m sure they work but it not sure I’d pay the price for them.

Obsydian- Have you got a set?

Might try an find some hollow, half ball bearings for a fraction of the cost.

Yes, I had them on demo and returned them say in little to marginal gain. I didn't go back an forth really.

Anyway after posting them back, listening to my system I realised how good they where and quickly ordered a set, they won't be going anywhere.

The combined effect is pretty amazing.

How have you finalised the set up ? Two up and one down ? One up and two down ? Three up ? Three down ?  Two at the front, one at the back ? One at the front and two at the back ? Maybe one off centre at the front and one under the transformer, and one under the output devices ? Facing up under the transformer or down ? Facing down under the heaviest section or up ? How did you reach these conclusions ?

TOBYJUG posted:

Thinking I might take a pop on those AMR gold 13a fuses. Three for £45 to replace those in my Nordost, which I believe uses basic Furutech.

Yes. Been a while with these in.

A few little ups and downs, but now cooking. Like having a steak done just right - and a very good steak with taste and juice as it should be.   Yum

I’ve gone back to my powerline lite with the blue fuse, I had it in a custom Belden cable but I’m thinking the same as Obsydian that the original Naim cable it best, even though apart from the plugtop, it’s just a standard flex cable.

Ive just ordered one of the Gold HiFi tuning fuse’s for £35, with a few decent reviews it’s worth a pop, the symbol on it is a diode with a capacitor across it, this circuit would block DC signals but allow AC to pass provided it was connected the right way around.

Maybe worth another x-ray!

ANAVRIN - I am awaiting (stuck in UK customs) an SR Atmosphere Power cable to replace my Chord Signature Aray, will report back soon.

So you have stopped using the SR blue or just your Belden ?

I found the Belden on the Naim not to my liking and preferred the Powerline, but prefer the Chord Power over that easily, just need to see what the SR power cable can do.

I think the xray will show no more than a wire.

Anavrin posted:

I’ve gone back to my powerline lite with the blue fuse, I had it in a custom Belden cable but I’m thinking the same as Obsydian that the original Naim cable it best, even though apart from the plugtop, it’s just a standard flex cable.

Ive just ordered one of the Gold HiFi tuning fuse’s for £35, with a few decent reviews it’s worth a pop, the symbol on it is a diode with a capacitor across it, this circuit would block DC signals but allow AC to pass provided it was connected the right way around.

Maybe worth another x-ray!

 

A single diode will only block DC of one polarity (or short one polarity if across the conductors not in series). A small capacitor would need to be high value (=far larger than a fuse) to pass AC at 50/60Hz if in series, alternatively if across the condictors a small one will short RF.

Anavrin posted:

 

Ive just ordered one of the Gold HiFi tuning fuse’s for £35, with a few decent reviews it’s worth a pop, the symbol on it is a diode with a capacitor across it, this circuit would block DC signals but allow AC to pass provided it was connected the right way around.

Maybe worth another x-ray! 

The symbols shown on the fuse are just the logo of the manufacturer, not showing what is inside.

As before, it's just a simple (albeit expensive) fuse.