Can anyone offer any suggestions for optimising the slam and weightiness of my Credos? Speaker placement has been tried but to no avail.
I'm a little curious as to the internal white wool and it's real purpose ( I'm really not one for blind experimentation ). How does the Credo differ from the SBL internally? How loose should those PIPS be?
I would appreciate any suggestions as to what I could do to control things a bit until I can get my new spur/earth sorted and afford to upgrade to an 82/supercap (and pay for the divorce proceedings to boot if that happens too soon I might add!).
Any Credo Swamis or Gurus out there? Anyone?
TIA- Regards P.- CDS2/HI+72/180/XPS in a Base Res Control Cabinet going down from left to right -and no regrets at all!.
Posted on: 20 October 2000 by Pete, Mad Bad and Dangerous to Know
Hi,
In theory crimping is better then soldering because solder has a higher resistance than copper so a copper to copper crimp has lower resistance than a copper-solder-copper joint, but one thing solder does is to prevent the joint oxidising, so in the long run its better. But the closer the parts are to each other the less solder between them the lower the resistance is. You should aim to make a good mechanical joint first then solder it to prevent oxidisation.
When I bought my second hand Arcs one started to cut out, it turned out that one connection to the binding posts hadn't been soldered at the factory but the wire was rapped around tight enough to make contact for several years with out causing problems.
pete
Posted on: 20 October 2000 by Paul Stephenson
"'Hull' can be said to be beside the Humber - not astride it as you seem to suggest."
You are absolutely correct, I wondered if I would get away with the vagary of the geography, well spotted.
I used to get mine from BOGUS in the 70's on Spring bank.
[This message was edited by Paul Stephenson on FRIDAY 20 October 2000 at 12:59.]
Posted on: 20 October 2000 by Former member
quote:
With Naim plugs I have found the best way is to try to ‘flatten’ the bare wire strands as much as possible and to NOT ‘tin’ them prior to soldering into place. Holding the flattened wire in place at 90 deg’ to the plug simply allow some solder to run down onto the top of the plug, thus filling it. I have found this relatively easy to do and I am far from being an expert with a soldering iron.
This is exactly the way we do it Bri, as this also makes a good mechnical joint.
It helps to have a 60-70watt mains iron too...
Posted on: 20 October 2000 by P
I'm working on putting together the complete beginners guide to soldering NAIM plugs and will be offering it for sale on RA's website soon.
Regards P. - Gotta pay for that 52/cap somehow!
Posted on: 21 October 2000 by dave simpson
Mark T. and Paul S.,
You know this would be a good topic to kick-off the VIP forum.
Just post a notice a week in advance informing forum members the date of the forum. I think some type of text prepared by a Naim engineer showing the "ABCs of soldering Naim style" could be posted on day 1.
Day 2 could be the (one) Q & A day with Q's posted in the special forum and answered by the Naim tech (lucky guy/gal) that day only (surely he/she could survive one day with us).
thanks,
dave
