Hi
Sorry to refresh one of the weirdest threads since I've monitored the Forum.
Get a STRONG cup of coffee--and I'll begin.
To precis the original 'fuse' thread Mark Tucker's 'tuning tip' was that on newer products the fuses on the back panel should be placed so that the end with the writing T_/250V should be placed uppermost as the fuses are reliably directional.(the '_' is the amp rating e.g T5 for 250 e.t.c
(there is a few letters on the other end of the fuse but ignore this)
Users of older chrome bumper stuff with the 'barrel' type (horizontal fuse holder with a cap that unscrews) naturally enquired which way around their fuses should go.
A member then said the T_/250v end should go in to the amp first --so when it sits in the screw in cap this writng can be seen.
Mark agreed with this--(and today a chappie at naim confirmed this wat to me)
David Dever at NANA USA then posted that ? was this wrong --as it would have the opposite siting in regards to the mains cable than that first recommended by Mark for the newer products.i.e one of the suggestions had to be the wrong way round!
Still with me?????ZZZZZZZZ!
Well I've fiddled a lot recently---trying to persuade my stubborn SBL's to go all Hifi on me!!(see post last week)---this included praying, fist waggling, Mana fiddling and fuse swapping in my 160. I sat down with an unclothed 160 and Armageddon--and David IMHO is RIGHT!!!!!
(allegedly Naim may be only just slightly wrong--please dont litigate if I'm off the scale of the Bulls***-ometer)
If the fuse is 'writing up' on the newer stuff:
writing end=to amp
non writing end=to mains
To replicate this on the old un's---the fuse should be writing AWAY from the amp and not towards it----trace the wires yourself--the wire that goes to the transformer(amp) is from the outer bit of the fuse from a lug in the barrel wall not the tip of the barrel inside.
--the mains via the switch goes to the tip
-- thus with the above key the tip(mains lead) should recieve the non-writing end.
XS DETAIL ALERT!!!!---thanks for staying with me there!
So does this matter?--well yes--using the new type fuses (as I do)-it does to my ears--and it does to Naim's too(ala the original post)
a large no. of forumers have chrome bumper stuff.
So suck it and see(not if its plugged in tho').
So with my untrained refereeing NANA 1 NAIM 0
Unless the wiring in the chrome bumper stuff was variable(same way tho' on my snaps2 and 110 and 140)--then it would be a draw.
Hope I've not enraged anyone--Naim are currently servicing my Naxo and prefix(will I find a horses head in the NAXO on its return?)
This post has reached XS length--other fuse-large matters below(I'm a wild and crazy guy really)
?have I just disagreed with the almighty
Humble regards
Richard
(its not the length of a 'post' that matters its how you use it)
[This message was edited by Richard Paget on THURSDAY 04 January 2001 at 01:20.]
[This message was edited by Richard Paget on THURSDAY 04 January 2001 at 01:24.]
[This message was edited by Richard Paget on THURSDAY 04 January 2001 at 01:26.]
Posted on: 03 January 2001 by Richard Paget
pretty vain to reply to your own post huh.
(someone has to)
Now my obsessive compulsiveness is on full throttle
In My stuff there are 4 types of fuse:
1)OLD(mid 80's)----glass has red,black stripes + a blue stripe to the writing end
2)mid(early 90's) in my 'geddon plain glass--single strand wire
3)New(mid 90's) in CDI--plain glass with single wire with another wire coiled around it tightly
4)Very New(last yr) identical fuse to New--identical symbols on ends but black 'RS' on glass.
Q's to Naim(please)
1)Are the older ones directional too or doesn't it matter?---if yes which ones? if no--do they sound better than the new ones(?changed to improve protection not improve sound)
2)For such an incredibly low cost item is it worth using the new ones in the older kit when you feel fuses can significantly harm your amp's sound?
3)If Q2 is yes---are these standard 'RS' as the '4)Very New' fuses above suggest or are they Naim spec and only available from you?
Well there you go---a problem shared is a problem halfed!!!
For real Fuseophiles
---110/snaps uses 2 amperes(T2)
---160 uses 3.15 amperes(T3.15)
---'geddon uses 4 amperes(T4)
---250 uses 5 amperes(you guessed it--T5)
--well I'm off to get some coco,put on my slippers
and file my parish magazines in alphabetical order
(after washin my hands 200 times of course!)
I feel so proud.
Regards Richard
(its not the length of a 'post' that matters its how you use it)
PS --to those that do--How the heck do use copper
wire to replace the fuse?--and how much sleep do you loose thinking of mains spikes?
Anyone tried soldering the wires direct to a fuse--and taping it up inside--or is this a step too far?
[This message was edited by Richard Paget on THURSDAY 04 January 2001 at 01:22.]
Posted on: 03 January 2001 by David Dever
--it was Mark (Tucker) & Doug (Graham) who turned me on to it last I was in Salisbury, especially with the NAP 500PS...funny, I was reminded about this earlier in the day while converting a CD3.5 for 115V use (which requires replacing the mains cord).
To recap: on current production stuff, the fuse rating should read up (normal) when you insert it into the IEC fused block on the back of the unit.
On older equipment (and Series 3 stuff: NAIT 3 / CD3 etc.) that uses the round chassis-mount fuseholders, put the insert (holder) on like a hat over the writing and insert into the hole. (No double entendres, please...)
In this manner, the live (or "hot") enters through the non-writing end first, and exits the writing end.
Does this make sense?
Dave Dever, NANA
Posted on: 06 January 2001 by Richard Paget
To the mere mortals,
I just knew I'd walked into the zone marked 'get a life' when I posted above.
I chuckled with internal mocking warmth and mirth at the concept of fuse fiddling when I read the original post.--but my desperate battle to subdue my coinhabitant SBL's not to sound awful when the rest of the world's ears love 'um took me to the edge of insanity and obsessive setup detail.
But on reflection and comtemplation posting on a forum designed for comment and advice re improving the sound of our Naim systems---
about a 50p item that with ~2mins work may be able to improve (all be it modestly) the sound of the above £1000's systems is still worth a stereotype and being ostracised.
The fact that the manufacturer also gave (and still is) incorrect advice to older gear users was also worth a comment.
New arrivees to the forum are baptised re the ability and directionality of the black v grey Snaic--the importance of a Naim only crabtree power lead and a separate mains spur.
Now what is the fuse but the last bit of very thin strangling wire before the nasty mains hits our beloved Naim monolithic transformers.
What is NACA5 without some decent banana plugs.
So wire can be directional and can be very sonically important thus so can the fuse.
So lets all herald the arrival of the age of the fuse to our forum and pay homage to its might and wonderful improvement per £ ratio.
I am just a much mocked messenger in a forum of temporary disbelievers-a man before his time---how I will be laughing when I'm canonised along with St Mark of Tucker.
I just hope the fuse is round the right way in the electric shock machine they've just attaching to my forehead.
No one understands me I've a lot to give....
Zaaaaaap!
Ps tell me about the rabbits!!!
