I need a bike - opinions sought....

Richard

This forum is populated by those who go a bit OTT with regards to bikes and you will be advised to buy all sorts of wierd looking contraptions in glitzy colours and strange looking frames.

I have just taken up cycling after a 40 year gap and I have chosen a Pashley Paramount.

This is it,

http://www.pashley.co.uk/products/classic/paramount/specification.html

This bike is solidly built, will last forever and has a 5 speed hub gearbox which is easy to use and will last forever. Despite it being steel, it is very easy to ride.

I doubt if any of the kids on the street will nick it because it is traditional.

It is a good bike, believe me.

Regards

Mick

Richard.

I would recommend looking at a dual suspension mountain bike. The prices have come down dramatically over the last few years and the bikes are relatively light; but more importantly comfortable. I spoke with a bike shop owner in Calgary a while back and he said he loved dual suspension because at the age of 40, his knees and back didn't work like they used to. The dual suspension allowed him to ride with the younger guys without the beating that his old ride gave him.

You can get a set of slick tires to switch over to depending on the conditions/situation.

Ironically, buying a bike is much like buying a stereo. It all comes down to trying it out. Bring your choices to about four and take each one for a ride. Any reputable shop will let you try the bike. Sizing is critical, so make sure you get the right fit.

I hope this was helpful.

tw

Mick,

thank you for the link. I am surprised, though. I thought the Roadster would be more your style. Hmmm, I am strangely drawn to the Roadster, if it were a car it would be like an old Bentley or perhaps a Bristol....

tw,

thanks. My local bike shop didn't recommend a twin suspension bike. I'm not entirely sure why but I will put it to them and see what they say. I agree, it's important to try a bike first before buying, much like hifi....

Any more suggestions?

Richard

quote:

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Originally posted by Richard Dane:
thanks. My local bike shop didn't recommend a twin suspension bike. I'm not entirely sure why

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There is no point getting a full suspension bike unless you're planning to ride mainly off-road and are going to spend a minimum of perhaps £800.

3 questions:

1) How rough are the tracks you're planning to use?
2) How often do you expect to use the bike?
3) How much are you willing to spend?

For say £300 and if you're riding rough tracks then I'd say you're better off with a mountain bike (or at least based on an MTB frame and 26" wheels), and there are plenty of options around that sort of cash.

Richard,

I agree with Steve with regard to Dual Suspension. It's not really about comfort but for riding over rocks, bumps, drops, etc. and it's function is to allow you to ride more difficult terrain at higher speeds and to provide more grip by keeping the back wheel in contact with the ground more often. It is also expensive an unless you are buying a very good quality, speciailist bike at a reasonably high budget you should avoid it like the plague. A good hi-fi analogy would be 15" bass drivers -- they are difficult to do well and impossible to do well on all but the very best quality equipment.

The Nait level where there is a sudden leap in quality for not that much more money is about £350-£450 for entry level front bikes from Trek, Specialised, Marin, etc. which usually come in a rigid and front suspension version. This is money well spent especially if you are going to go off-road quite a lot.

I've no direct experience of Claude Butler but my impression is that they do offer good value and more than respectable quality at the price. If you are riding mainly on-road with the odd forest track with the family.

One final thing: steel has a bit more flex to it and is more comfortable than aluminium.

Matthew

PS I have a Marin Muirwoods sort of for sale if you are interested. it looks liek this:

Look..
We are all obsessives here - it's in the genes. You wouldn't be doing what you do Richard without some real kick out of the toys you deal with. If this is going to be a worthwhile investment and get's used, you need to get excited about it.
Gary Fisher do a fantastic range and are given a geometry to stick your bum closer over the rear axle to make climbing easier. Great bikes. (check out how the rear seat tube is angled back further than the Marin above).
This is the Hoo Koo E Koo

Chaps

One has to be realistic here.

Richard is not a youngster and a good bike for our age group needs to be more in the upright position. I an now regualary cycling a 10 mile return journey without any discomfort or fatigue what so ever.

Also the Pashley is very well made and requires only minimal maintenance. The brakes are drum and are thus unaffected by wet weather. The saddle is sprung for comfort and is made of leather which is ultra corfortable for middle aged posteriors.

The frame is very light and manuverable despite being made of a relativly heavy steel.

It is the perfect bike for those who cycle on tarmac.

Regards

Mick

Rasher -- Picking a bike on the basis of seat angle is like picking an amp on the basis of how many capacitors it's got. Besides the HKEK is 2.5 times the price of bikes Richard is looking at and it's seat angle is 73.5 degress compared to the Marin's 74 degrees. If you can tell the difference I'll give you a million pounds.

Mick -- You know nothing about bikes. And didn't read Richard's question very carefully if at all.

Richard -- I would answer Steve's questions before going further. To make specific recommendations one needs to know more infomation.

Matthew

The best bike is one that you enjoy using, and therefore does not spend time in the garage just rotting. Mick has found one that floats his boat and coddles his posterior.

My advice, less important to pick your bike at this stage than to pick your bike shop. Find a good independent shop, go in with your money, on a weekday when they have plenty of time and buy the bike that fits you and looks and feels 'right'. Make sure they let you try it properly before you part with any cash and get little things like the saddle upgraded if you need (these are usually poor on cheaper bikes).

I've just ordered my dream bike but I'll bet Mick has just as much fun on his because he chose it and it suits him well!

Bruce

quote:

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Originally posted by Mick Parry:
Chaps

One has to be realistic here.

Richard is not a youngster and a good bike for our age group needs to be more in the upright position....
Mick

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I am suddenly feeling rather depressed.... Mick, I have not quite reached 40 yet but, since giving up ciggies (as evidenced on another thread on this forum many months ago), I have an excess of energy that I feel wiould be well channelled in bicycling around the Wiltshire/Dorset countryside. Much as I admire Pashley for ploughing their particular retro niche, I'm not sure that they will be able to cope with one of the steepest hills in the county which lies right outside my door.... Thank you for your thoughts.

Matthew, your analogy relating to the NAIT is an excellent one and pretty much spot on. I like the picture of your bike (nicely low-key, a bit mean and moody) but your offer puts me in an invidious position as moderator of this forum.... One must remain mindful of the rules and certainly I must be the last person to brush them aside lightly.

So, go for quality and "keep it simple" seems to be the order of the day. Much like hifi really...

Any other good makes to look out for?

Richard

Richard,

Buy the cheapest bike you like the look of, ride it, enjoy it, and when/if you decide you want something better you will know what to ask the bike shop for.

If you want a Pashley, nick one of a postman, im sure he'll be glad to see the back of it.

Paul.

Matthew - Richard asked for "suggestions". I certainly wouldn't notice half a degree of seat post angle, but I could hear the difference between a 250 and a pair of 135's. My bike racing buddy (semi-pro) could tell the difference in half a degree seat post angle, but not the amps.
I'm sure it is more than just the angle that lops your rear over the axle, but there you go.
I'm sure Richard wouldn't buy anything until given a good trial and comparison.
Price?...well...we all know how that old budget gets forgotten sometimes, eh?!

Matthew

Please stop acting like some self opinionated windbag.

Richard asked for suggestions and at this stage is open minded on what he wants. He knows far better than any of us what he wants.

He has even stated that he has leanings to the Pashley Roadster, thus indicating a still open mindedness.

Not all of us wish to tank around the streets wearing starange clothing on wierd bikes.

I for instance, prefer practicality over trendy image. I have just fitted a basket over the rear wheel to store goods whilst travelling.

That may not suit you but it suits me. Richard is at the early stage and he wants a wide range of opinions.

Regards

Mick

Regards

Mick

Steve,

in answer to your questions:
1) I will be mixing road with track use - about 60/40 split - the tracks can get fairly rough but I don't want something that feels like I'm riding a Massey Ferguson when I'm on the road.
2) I hope to use it every day, at least during the months of longer days and better weather. An hour or so in the evening after work and then over the weekends.
3) Just like hifi, I started low and it's going up all the time.... £250-400...

Richard

Mick,

Richard asked for "something that can cope with a mix of country lane and track", "not too heavy", "relatively inexpensive" and then listed some circa £200 bikes he was looking at. He also noted that the Legend "looks a bit more comfortable although I’m concerned that it may not cope with some of the tracks we have around here"

You suggested an expensive, heavy bike bike entirely inappropriate for riding on any sort of track.

Matthew

Richard

Even at the age of forty you would be ill advised to be riding in a low position that will induce back ache.

If the bike causes you to become stiff and sore, it will remain locked away in your garage.

I have hardly had a day off work, in over forty years, mainly because I do not indulge in activities which involve cortorting oneself in strange positions.

Regards

Mick

Mrs Mick should read that last post!

(sorry)

Bruce

quote:

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Matthew

Please stop acting like some self opinionated windbag.

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Which, coming from the most self opinionated windbag on the forum is the best laugh I've had for ages.

David

I'm clearly over the hill!

I'm 42 and ride a Stumpjumper and a Brian Rourke road bike. I rather like the riding position of both. You only get stiff and sore if a) you are unfit and/or b) your bike is incorrectly set up and/or c) you were sold a bike with geometry inappropriate to your frame (or maybe d) you ride a postmans bike!)

Yeah Richard, at the age of nearly forty, you should start to realise that it's really all over for you. Why not just get that comfy armchair, sew some leather onto your elbows and take up pipe smoking. Maybe drawing or painting would be more appropriate for these twilight years.

quote:

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Originally posted by Richard Dane:
Steve,

in answer to your questions:
1) I will be mixing road with track use - about 60/40 split - the tracks can get fairly rough but I don't want something that feels like I'm riding a Massey Ferguson when I'm on the road.
2) I hope to use it every day, at least during the months of longer days and better weather. An hour or so in the evening after work and then over the weekends.
3) Just like hifi, I started low and it's going up all the time.... £250-400...

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I suspect a bike based on a mountain bike frame and wheels is probably the sort of thing you're looking for. Given your local shops does Claud Butler then you might want to take a look at the Cape Wrath, which is widely regarded as the best mountain bike money can buy at the £400 price point. It also has the advantage that if you get hooked it'll be easily capable of coping with more serious off-roading.

For the sort of use you discuss it'll probably be worth changing the tyres to something more road biased, although probably not completely slick. Specialized do a tyre called the Crossroads which is quite cheap (they can be had for £10 or so each) which would suit, but as always there are other options.

Other options to consider (just a few from many):

Giant Yukon £300
Giant Boulder FS £215
Ridgeback MX45 £300
Specialized Hardrock Disc £400
Specialized Hardrock Rigid £260
Specialized Hardrock Sport £300

The Specialized Hardrocks are excellent value and about the best available at the £300 mark.

If it were my money then I'd probably go with the Claud Butler Cape Wrath (usually about £360) as it's got decent disc compatible wheels, 27-speed Deore drivetrain and suspension forks which, unlike on many entry level bikes, aren't completely useless.

Matthews Muirwoods would also do the job, although for rough tracks in anything other than dry conditions a change of tyres would be useful. I've ridden tracks on slicks in the summer though and you get more grip than you'd expect.

quote:

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I have hardly had a day off work, in over forty years, mainly because I do not indulge in activities which involve cortorting oneself in strange positions.

Regards

Mick

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LOL!! You dont half ask for it dont you!!
Of course it could also be argued that your attendance record is due to the fact that you only push the letters around your desk, the poor old postie (with his Pashley) lumps them around town.

Paul.

I'm also not that far off 40 (still a few years to go) and, despite a preference for a stretched out riding position on road and mountain bikes, have never suffered from a sore back from cycling.

On anything other than the slowest & flattest of rides a very upright position is likely to cause more problems that it'll solve.

[This message was edited by Steve G on Fri 28 May 2004 at 13:15.]

I agree with Steve.

Plus I'd echo what Bruce said that a decent local independent bike shop is a great thing to have.

Matthew