T/T's on suspended floors

...are the only true way on a bouncy floor, although depending on how bouncy it is you might get away with floor mounting.

For your LP12, may I recommend the Mana wallshelf. I no longer use an LP12 (although I'm looking for a s/h one for the second, Nait-based system if anyone has a basic LP12 for sale) but used an LP12/Lingo/Aro for long enough on a Mana wallshelf and whatever you read about whether it is a good thing or not under electronics such as cd players, nobody can argue that it really does the business under an LP12. Just be sure to ensure that your wall can take the strain - the reason I no longer have an LP12 is that my wall couldn't take the strain...

TC '..'
"Girl, you thought he was a man, but he was a Muffin..."

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a wall mounted rack ain't gonna happen

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Doh!

Anyway, if you go for floor mounting, have you thought about using a deadweight material such as sand, in some kind of a container, and placing a sheet of something like marble on top of it (difficult to describe here) atop which you'd place your regular support? That might work.

Another alternative would be one of those magnetic floating supports, but they're very expensive, I don't know how much weight they can support and also I haven't ever seen or heard one to recommend it. But it's still there as an option...

TC '..'
"Girl, you thought he was a man, but he was a Muffin..."

Dear np,

I reckon your idea is a good one. That's what I would do.

regards

Dev

np your idea certainly may work.

Things I've done in the past with some success.

Positioning, Obviously try not to position the TT above joists that run under regular walkthroughs.

If you have carpets, cut around the floor boards where your TT is stood, this isolates them from the the other floor boards, this and the above combined should offer reasonable results.

Having said all that I've now gone to a wall shelf (QS)

If you have braced the joists, carriage bolts should be unecessary. Several 8 or 10 guage 2.5" screws through the floorboards securing them to the joists whould work just as well, and will give you no trouble underneath carpet. Spread the load.

Why no wallshelf? With proper installation, any wallshelf should be sound. if the wall isn't strong enough to take the table and shelf, are you happy that its supporting the roof above you?

Rico - SM/Mullet Audio

Thanks for your input - with dev's endorsement I'm willing to give it a go. I'll let you know if it's a success.
My house is c1902 and has no solid walls inside the house at all. I've seen > 1 person report of going home to see their t/t hanging from the wall by the cable. If I could find the wooden upright joists I may consider a wall shelf but I'd prefer to get the floor stand to work if at all possible.
Thanks guys.

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If I could find the wooden upright joists I may consider a wall shelf but I'd prefer to get the floor stand to work if at all possible.

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Go to your local hardware store and for $10 you can buy an electronic stud finder. They work pretty well and I've used them to good effect. In fact, I used one when mounting my wall shelf for the LP12. Until I got the wall shelf, there was no way that I could satisfactorily isolate my turntable on the floating wood floors (house is also circa 1910 or so).

This should make it pretty trivial to find the studs on which you can mount the wall shelf. Note however that studs are commonly on 16" centers here in the US. Given your wall shelf, you may need to mount it on a wood board (i.e., mounting holes 20" apart), which you then mount on the wall using the 16" centers.

Erik

Most internal walls are 'stud-partition', made of vertical 4"(deep)x2"(wide) timber studs - your vertical joists - with either lath and plaster (old houses) or plasterboard covering. Obviously the plasterboard is not up to supporting a TT, but the studs will be plenty strong enough. The problem is that the fixings of the shelf are unlikely to match the position of the studs. The solution is to fix one or two horizontal supports to the studs and then attach your shelf to these. You can find the studs easily enough by tapping and then confirm by drilling a very fine (2.5mm) pilot hole. Watch out for electrical cables between the studs, these run vertically to light switches or sockets.

duncan

ooops! I see i am repeating Dr Exotica's advice here. I have not heard of a 'Stud finder', but managed to hang heavy mirror and wall cupboards in this fashion which are still hanging in there. BTW Studs in the UK are usually 16" or 24" apart

[This message was edited by djc on THURSDAY 09 May 2002 at 21:43.]

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Originally posted by np:
If I could find the wooden upright joists I may consider a wall shelf but I'd prefer to get the floor stand to work if at all possible.

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I've got a new house with the usual crap internal walls but used a detector thing to locate the studs. I bolted wooden sections across two of these and have my Mana shelf mounted on those. It's very, very solid (it was done after hearing about TC's misfortune so I was extra paranoid!).

I had a few footfall problems before using the shelf but none at all since.

Regards
Steve

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Originally posted by Top Cat:

(although I'm looking for a s/h one for the second, Nait-based system if anyone has a basic LP12 for sale)

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If you want to borrow a deck to use while your looking I've got a Thorens TD160MkII/Rega RB250 lying around unused.

Regards
Steve

In my opinion internal walls on some modern wooden framed houses don't provide a suitably stable support for any record deck whatever you attach to the wall to support the deck. This is a real problem and I am planning a move back to a solution based on careful positioning with respect to existing flooring supports, possibly employing 'weighty objects' (concrete slabs and sand), bracing/strengthening joists if necessary, and custom stands to facilitate isolation.
Terry

If you are unsure of your walls, re Plynnplynn; one thing to remember is that structurally the strongest points are outside corners, outside walls, and internal load-bearing walls. So try to use this as a guidline for mounting your wallshelf.( or placing a floormount rack for that matter ) This way you may maximize strength while minimizing the amount of vibration transmited to/thru the wall.


I too have the same problem with footfalls. Need to try and find a reasonably priced wall shelf for my "in-use" Thorens TD160mkII.

Anyway, I played with position of my current rack to minimize footfall problems.
Ended up against an outside wall, and less than 1/4 room lentgh from an outside corner. Now "careless" walking may produce a skip, whereas before even a carefull tip-toe could cause a nasty skating incident.

HTH

michael

In my case it is only careless shutting of doors which causes me a problem. But it is a concern.
Terry

TopCat the commercially viable magnetic one is in the candy catalouge.

Allthough it is suspended with magnets the primary problem of course is that it needs to be kept in place or the magnets would repel onto the floor, to do this they cunningly employ four metal bars in two corners, in other words the two parts are coupled, pretty much making it pointless in my eyes.


Also whilst on the subject you can get some mutherfucer bolts for plaster walls now, once fully screwd in you can have a back braces of up to 8 cm, which is very beefy indeed.

I've had a target shelf on partition walls for 16 years and never had a problem with my linn. The house was built in 1948 and was built with the cheapest materials councils could get away with in that post war austerity period. Flooring was all second hand and very uneven so it had to be a wall shelve. I just drilled through the plaster board and fitted push through togglers with long bolts, lined and evened up the shelve and screwed up the bolts as tight as they would go. The shelve was removed 2 years ago for redecorating and the bolts were as tight as they day they were first fitted.

It seems to me that one of the benefits of using a spiked platform (or a double-spiked platform--spikes at the bottom as well as the top) is to increase the effective moment of inertia of the turntable.

When the TT sits upon a board, which itself sits upon three or four upward facing spikes, the inertia of the table as "seen" by the spikes is ENORMOUS. The pressure is something like thousands of Newtons per square inch.

Hence, when the floor oscilates, the spike oscilates as well. But, the spike "sees" what is essentially an unmovable object (the TT in this case, which is pushing down on the spike with ENORMOUS force), which tends to result in one of two things:

1. The spike finds it easier to oscilate into and out of the board (if using a board) rather than moving the whole board, or
2. If using glass, the oscilation is fed back down into the shelf and floor--again, the TT does not oscilate.

My experence bears this out exactly. I have (had) a Salamander equipment rack. rather heavy (say 40 pounds). It sat on four large feet. The Lp12, when rested upon the top shelf) jumped like crazy whenever I approached it.

I then inserted a Mana soundstage between Salamander and Lp12 (with bottom and top spikes--as you know). I now have to "jump" on my suspended floor near the TT to get it to bounce.

I suggest you try this first before doing any heavy lifting.

Judd