Fraim Optimisation Suggestions Please.

Craig.

Congratulations on purchasing the Fraim. It does make a big difference to the sound.

All I would suggest is follow the instructions and make sure you set it up correctly. Everything is nice and tight and everything is nicely balanced. Check everything every once in a while appart from that just sit back and ENJOY the music.


Regards

NB

Some advice on how to post a picture properly would also be appreciated as that looks terrible. Whats the max file size??

50 Kb's!

I had the same problem posting photo's on a previous thread of mine. The camera used takes photo's averaging a size of 800KB's and once there reduced they look b****y awefull!


Regards

NB

NB

Thanks for the quick reponse, had it in my head that the max file size was 30kbs, so it looks even worse than it could have done.

my pleasure Craig,

Give it another go, it looks a fine sistem.

Regards

NB

The best way for a bigger better picture is to link to some webspace. Most all ISPs offer something it the way of webspace, upload a picture there then link from various fora.

Like so:



the link is done thus: however { is infact a the square type of one on the same key.

{img}http://YOURWEBSPACE/IMAGE NAME{/img}

One tweek that Craig might try is to bring the speakers forrward so the the drive units are in front of the electronics.

When Mr Darwin kindly checked out my sistem for me he made the same comment. Apparently the electronics get "in the way" of the sound if they are placed in between the speakers!


Regards

NB

Andrew, unfortunately room size is a problem and i cant move the stand/speakers any further away from each other, i will try NBs idea of bringing them further forward so that they are not behind the system. There is a rug on the floor, its just out of picture. Its the girlfriends rug that she bought back from a trip to India so i dont dare change it for another one (as she is still not to happy from coming home at the weekend to find that a 3 shelf Quadraspire had turned into a 5 shelf Fraim).

Garyi, thanks for the advice, i will have to use that free web space the ISP goes on about now that i have a digital camera (looks like a bloody nice room to emerse yourself in boys toys by the way).

Regards + thx

Craig

Try putting the the Pre on the top and the CD player below,

quote:

---

Originally posted by NB:
Everything is nice and tight and everything is nicely balanced.

---

NB,

I have to disagree with this.

The Fraim loses some of it's performance if done up too tight.

However, there is a balance to be made, because if done too loose, it will come (slightly) undone, and then it sounds much worse.

Naims recommendation:-

quote:

---

When you rebuild your Fraim make sure you get the tie rods firmly secured in
to the spike cups ( as tight as you can by hand ) .
Next pass upright "leg" over the tie rod. To secure this to the upright,
thread the cone so that the cone is just over finger tight and then give it
another quarter of a turn.

---

cheers, Martin

E-mail:- MartinPayne at Dial.Pipex.com

Naims recommendation:-

quote:

---

When you rebuild your Fraim make sure you get the tie rods firmly secured in
to the spike cups ( as tight as you can by hand ) .
Next pass upright "leg" over the tie rod. To secure this to the upright,
thread the cone so that the cone is just over finger tight and then give it
another quarter of a turn.

---

Martin,

Can you provide a link to this particular post as well as any other similar "official" Fraim installation posts ?

thanks,

dave

Craig.

You will need to retighten the Fraim after about 3 months give or take. This is climate specific of course. If your climate is humid with the winter coming, when the heater goes on and things dry out that is the best time for a tightening.

You will know when it is needed because the treble will lose its sparkle and the bass will seem to be lacking.


tw

quote:

---

Originally posted by dave simpson:
Can you provide a link to this particular post as well as any other similar "official" Fraim installation posts ?

---

Dave,

this was a private e-mail, I'd have to give you a link to my in-box!

However, I posted all of the relevent part of the e-mail above.

cheers, Martin

E-mail:- MartinPayne at Dial.Pipex.com

Martin,
please check your private topics,
regards,
andy c.

quote:

---

Originally posted by Martin Payne:

quote:

---

Dave,

this was a private e-mail, I'd have to give you a link to my in-box!

However, I posted all of the relevent part of the e-mail above.

cheers, Martin

---

Thanks Martin,

I wondered if this was the case after searching old posts (private email)... I do appreciate your sharing this information. The degree of tightness specified in your post is probably where mine are at now--much tighter and you might crush the uprights.

The floor spikes are another matter. The "range of travel" from finger tight to full stop (blood vessels bulging on forearm) is minute (about a twentieth of a turn is full stop in other words!)

I've experimented with just over finger-tight vs. "quarter-turn" and mine sound their best at your recommended level.

thanks,

dave

---

[/QUOTE]

[This message was edited by dave simpson on SATURDAY 27 September 2003 at 00:23.]

A bit off topic but..........

I've just 'Fraimed' my study system of CD3/112/150/Linn Saras, and been astonished at the sonic transformation.

The kit used to stand on a floor spiked, 3 tier heavy wooden Hi-Fi support.

Three levels of Fraim ain't cheap of course, but I firmly believe that this level of resolution and musical enjoyment would not have been possible by spending the money on equipment, to be used on my existing support.

I am firmly convinced that '5 series' system owners should go for Fraim as the most cost effective upgrade.

Being modular, it also softens the financial blow as the system sprouts extra boxes.

J.N.

My thoughts exactly from the experience i have just had by adding a Fraim to my 5 series stuff. I have had a smile on my face all week. A far bigger upgrade than adding a Flatcap 2 in my opinion, yes there was a difference when i added my FC2, but the Fraim has just astounded me. It would be my recomendation to any owners out there considering changing for some reason, to give their current equipment its best opportunity to shine by sticking it on a Fraim. It does seem initially expensive (i remember laughing my head off at the dealers a few months ago when he told me the price), but as other people have said, its at least as good as adding a power supply in my opinion.

Now question time if i may. I rebuilt the Fraim yesterday as in my desperation last week to set it all up and listen to it, i hadnt leveled it off properly. Thats now done, on reconnecting everything i have loosely wound the interconnects around the rear upright support of the Fraim in order to keep them off the floor where the power and speaker cables lie. Now i am having thoughts that this might have been a bad idea. Any thoughts anyone as my understanding of electronics isn't that good. Should i just let them hang straight down??

Regards

Craig

Craig.

You should try wherever possible to avoid any cables touching the Fraim. Sometimes it is next to impossible unless you employ some of the innovative ideas from elsewhere on the forum.

I didn't notice if you have the Fraim Chips or not. If you don't, this is another great opportunity for a sonic improvement. I now have them under both Fraim and speakers and they are tremendous.

tw

quote:

---

Originally posted by J.N.:
_A bit off topic but.........._

I've just 'Fraimed' my study system of CD3/112/150/Linn Saras, and been astonished at the sonic transformation.

The kit used to stand on a floor spiked, 3 tier heavy wooden Hi-Fi support.

Three levels of Fraim ain't cheap of course, but I firmly believe that this level of resolution and musical enjoyment would not have been possible by spending the money on equipment, to be used on my existing support.

I am firmly convinced that '5 series' system owners should go for Fraim as the most cost effective upgrade.

Being modular, it also softens the financial blow as the system sprouts extra boxes.

---

I agree with John, the Fraim was a massive upgrade for my system and really helped it to sing.

Craig

I concur with Tristram - let 'em droop! but try to keep the various cables apart if possible.

FWIW; I've learned that Fraim should not be overtightened. If so; it seems to rob some life, speed and agility from the sound.

Naim's advice is:-

'Finger tight, then a quarter of a turn'.

However; over time as the veneer compresses, it can work slightly loose, which is also not ideal.

It's a bugger this Hi Fi lark, ain't it?

Good luck.

Did you polish your balls? (Oooohh er missus. No don't titter etc: etc

quote:

---

Originally posted by J.N.:
_Craig_

I concur with Tristram - let 'em droop! but try to keep the various cables apart if possible.

FWIW; I've learned that Fraim should not be overtightened. If so; it seems to rob some life, speed and agility from the sound.

Naim's advice is:-

'Finger tight, then a quarter of a turn'.

However; over time as the veneer compresses, it can work slightly loose, which is also not ideal.

It's a bugger this Hi Fi lark, ain't it?

Good luck.

Did you polish your balls? (Oooohh er missus. No don't titter etc: etc

---

JN,

You are a big time nerd!

Respect.

Dev

I just added an 82 and two Hicaps. I have a major snake pit of wires in back of the system and would hate to try to str8en it out. the frame is really easy to unload and load new equipment into being stackable in units. Happy camper there but oh the wicked snake pit.

glenn

Life is analogue

yeah well me too.

"how to make your fraim sound better, part one"
get down on your knees and give those balls a good rub.

Rico - SM/Mullet Audio