hospital grade outlets

srf

I added a standard 20 AMP breaker to an open slot in my main electrical pannel. From that breaker I ran heavy Bromex electrical wire to two of the Orange outlets we discussed. Most importantly, I ran a heavy gauge solid copper ground wire from the two outlets to an 8 foot long solid grounding rod pounded into the earth with about 8 inches above ground. (The grounding rods are located at the front end of the electrical isle at Home Depot)

If you don't have electrical experience I would get an electrician. You can seriously die doing this. I can post some pictures of the job if you are interested.

srf

[This message was edited by Jeb on MONDAY 03 December 2001 at 22:21.]

As to your question. It's best to independently ground the way I described. In my opinion the pipe is not really an option. Once done the right way, the whole system can be plugged into the dedicated ground.

Jeb

I also remember someone mentioned that it's important to have 4 brass screw terminals instead of the regular 2 brass, 2 nickel plated.

Thanks to that thread, i've been using the 2 dollar industrial sockets and can't complain.

Anyone remember this discussion?

I've experimented with several receptacles to find the best one. Your priorities might be different, your system is undoubtedly different, and your mileage may vary, so don't take any of this as gospel.

Receptacles come in various grades -- from

* cheap 49-cent ones that barely meet minimum electrical codes,

* to spec-grade receptacles that are built to much higher standards,

* to industrial-grade ones that construction workers like (because they solidly grip cords for electric drills and saws),

* to fancy $20+ "hospital-grade" outlets that are required by law for widgets like heart defribulators.

Don't assume the most expensive receptacle is best for your Naim kit.

Most industrial- and hospital-grade receptacles have lots of metal in them -- metal to reinforce the screw clamps (so you can tighten the screws down on the live, neutral and ground wires) and metal in the receptacle itself (so the plug's pins are tightly gripped and can't be pulled out). Lots of metal in a receptacle -- especially nickel -- seems to be a bad thing with Naim.

In all my fiddling the only things I've been able to deduce are that the best receptacles for Naim kit are ones that make a solid connection and, this seems to be even more important, don't have lots of nickel in their construction. Lots of nickel makes the system sound harsh and zingy.

I prefer the metal-poor 49-cent receptacles to the metal-rich $20 premium units but the spec-grade Bryant receptacles (about $5 US) are the best of the lot. They make a solid connection -- much better than the cheap Levitons -- but they are not choked full of metal like the industrial-grade Bryants and hospital-grade Hubbels.

As important as the receptacle you plug your kit into are the other ones in the ring. (If you don't have a clue about electricity and wiring, don't try this yourself. It's not worth burning down your house or electrocuting yourself to improve your hi-fi. But if you are competent ...

Turn the power off (!!!) and thoroughly clean the live, neutral and ground wires going to each receptacle and then firmly tighten the screws. The whole ring is kept live by parallel wiring through the receptacles, so a good connection at each one is essential and the screws do work themselves loose over time.

You should also check that each outlet in the ring is properly wired -- that live and neutral haven't been reversed at any receptacle and that the ground is OK. Radio Shack sell a $30 gizmo that checks for correct wiring. But some fancy computer power bars also check for correct wiring, so if you have one of these try it first.

Joe

Are the spec-grade Bryant's available with isolated ground? And do you think it's important to have a seperate rod in the yard?

I've had some trouble finding these in the States too. Home Depot and some other places I've looked never seem to have them, although I'm sure they could be found online somewhere.

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Are the spec-grade Bryant's available with isolated ground?

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Sorry, I don't know. My Bryant has a conventional ground.

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And do you think it's important to have a seperate rod in the yard?

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Sorry (again), I don't know. I've always lived in rentals so I've never had the option to wire a separate spur or use a separate ground. My experiments were an attempt to make the best of a bad situation.

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I've had some trouble finding these in the States too. Home Depot and some other places I've looked never seem to have them, although I'm sure they could be found online somewhere.

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Search an on-line electrics supplier but failing that the 15-amp spec-grade Eagle receptacles available at Ace Hardware seem every bit as good as the spec-grade Brants. Just avoid the ones with lots of metal, which tend to be the industrial- and hospital-grade units.

Joe

I want to reiterate what Joe said: the shiny nickel plating makes Naim gear sound artificial and zingy. Plain brass and copper are best. I suggested buying two outlets and taking the unplated screws out to replace the shiny ones (used for the neutral) in the other. I once asked the Bryant factory for an all brass outlet used onboard ships (not corrode). However, when I received it, all the metallic components were beautifully nickel plated rendering it inferior to the much cheaper all brass variant. There are a number of others who have found this phenomenon to be puzzling, but true.

Did you got rid of all fuses along the way?
Heard that world improve things.........???