Pinstripe or Plain?

Dear TMP,

I fear a typo has aflicted you or a mis-read...

Look at what you have written. I won't spell it out.

Fredrik

Mikkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkkke's awindup

Yes, women wear suits in New Zealand. You don't see the dykes in zoot suits so much now though...

Deane

You won`t regret a bespoke suit. For added cool try it with shiny riders/ cowboy boots etc.

What about spurs?

A leather pouch?

Blue lipstick?

I wonder about you Legolas...

Mike

Quite re: bottom button. One must be ready to pull out one's sword at a moment's notice.

Deane

In fact, I think that the rule that one doesn't fasten the lowest button on a waistcoat or jacket originated from the garment falling lower on the body than it does nowadays.

Supposedly, the need to be able to draw one's sword with the right hand unhindered by clothing is why mens' shirts overlap in the direction that they do.

Has anyone mentioned changing fashions? Broad lapels were once fashionable. But so were high-heeled winklepickers with elasticated sides and pearl buttons. <blush>

Deane

you don't have to blow all of your wad on one bespoke suit. You may find excellent value is two made-to-measures for around the same price. Contact Rembrandt, ask them who the made-to-measure agent is in your town (a polite snigger may be followed by a christchurch address )

With a made-to-measure, you'll get the comfort and flattery of something that's built to fit your frame (assuming you select a style becoming), and have the choice of a business and a casual suit hanging in your wardrobe.

The fabric you choose is the principal contribution to how the suit will wear; how you care for it is the other.

Incidentally, for the gentleman making recommendations on where one would wear double-breasted jackets, height is not the only consideration.

Chalk stripes have always been around down here - they never go out of style.

chalk stripes, always seem to be worn by people with something to prove, stay well away

Finer pinstripes to me are just a bit dull - and certainly not required wear amongst any lawyers/bankers/accountants I've met in London recently. Also anything with a vertical line looks fine on tallish, well-built people but just doesn't work on small types of fatties.

if I wanted a suit I could wear formally and also for more casual ocasions I'd go for a single breasted, 3 button, in black. Would look great with a decent shirt/tie and also fine with a more casual shirt with no tie.

To me the quality of the shirt & tie is more important than the suit, especially as for most of the time at work the jacket is hanging up on a hanger (never on the back of your chair or just on a hook). Look at the Jermyn St places like Pinks or Lewins - they've got web sites and are always having sales these days with the move to casual dress. As Mick mentioned, for formal wear shirts should be double cuff, proper cut-away collars never buttoned down and abosolutely never those funny metal bar things.

Always buy a tie to go with a shirt when you buy the shirt - don't just hope that one of the ones at home will be suitable. Learn to tie a tie properly, a decent double windsor knot.

Finally if you're buyng a suit that you want to last buy two pairs of trousers for each jacket.

HTH
Phil

Double windsor knot seconded!

I'd maybe go for the pinstripe for the reason that wearing any suit at the weekend looks naff and very Eighties, i.e: you're wearing it to be let into a dodgy niteclub.

Pinstripe in a city pub in the week is ok if it's a case of drinks after work.

Shirts and ties should always be bought together to co-ordinate but not in the same pack. Shirts should never be white - it's too clinical and smacks of being an uncomfortable infrequent wearer of suits and ties for weddings, funerals, christenings and interviews. With the exception of the latter, that sums me up these days though.

Two pair of pants and one of these will help no end.

Hi Rico

Yes, I'm certain Mark is the agent for the Rembrandt computer cut made-to-measure service in Christchurch - or at least he was last time I talked with him. He spoke highly of the fit and quality which is no small thing - but then he does the measuring and he is a very good tailor. I notice that he is making shirts (and ties) to measure now as well - something he was only planning last time we spoke.

Bespoke would certainly be an indulgence on my part. You make a good point though - the thought of having a choice of two suits is a compelling one.

Deane

Deanne,

I have looked into the bespoke vs. made to measure here in different parts of Canada, and I think you will find the made to measure route more than satisfying. Bespoke adds substantial costs by having everything done by hand and hence a great deal more time and skill. Emphasis on time here. All custom made garments will have their requisite imperfections which is part of the package as well.

Made to measure gives you the experience of bespoke with choice of material, style and a couple of fittings without the cost. Often the garment is cut then sent for assembly and then finished by hand. You will find costs go up for a better liner in the jacket or pants, etc.

I would recommend the made to measure route as a start, which is infinitely better than off the rack in terms of fit and overall experience. Spend additional money on great material.
Start with one jacket or pair of pants to see how the tailor does and how the experience plays out. If you like the results, only then commit to a larger order. That way you will know whether the guy knows what he is doing or not.


tw

Tristram

Thank you for your advice - another vote for made-to-measure then.

This is like choosing between analogue or digital...

Deane

Deane, I forogot to add that having more than one suit allows you to rest the suit for 3 days between wearing. They're like shoes - the need a rest after use. Of course, in the case of shoes there's shoe trees, and in the case of suits theres at least a decent hanger.

I had a couple built by the Rembrandt service some years back - they wore brilliantly (and in fact still are), and they recently took some alteration most gracefully after those five years (that someone mentioned earlier) had passed... to the point of being more comfortable still than the off-the-peg suits I'd bought in the interim years.

Oh, anyone in London interested in made-to-measure without the saville row price (and of course, some of the tradition!), could check out Mangas (they were behind London Wall). They turn out a good suit at a very reasonable price.

I enjoyed the Steve Toy sartorial elegance class very much - as if anyone here would buy a pack of shirts or ties, or a shirt & tie pack. As for your views on the white shirt, you sir are very clearly from the country. Carry on!

As for suit not as important (mentioned by another contributor): where do you think the saying "all over you like a cheap suit" comes from?

I'd have time and money to be a dandy were it not for my addiction to music.

regards

The only sartorial rule you need:

"You don't wear argyle with dark blue.

I had on dark blue socks and an argyle suit. I looked like a farmer"

Woody Allen.

Dear Adam,

"Looked like a farmer!" Please do tell what a farmer looks like. In UK all my relatives ARE farmers, and honestly I don't agree with most of them and it is mutual(!), but they do have excelent taste in taylors or dress-makers....

Kindest regards, Fredrik

Fredrik

I believe Adam may need to consult Woody Allen to answer your question.

As I said, get lots of adequate cheap suits or equivalent for all occasions (same goes for audio-systems really).

The fashions come/go and return.

It helps not to put on weight over the years - I did last year/found suits wouldn't fit/lost weight/now they do. I have not worn suits since 'refit', as I know that jackets/trousers etc do trick in all settings.

IMO it's only a worthless plonker/set of plonkers who would judge you by whether you had on a £30 outfit or a £30000 suit.

Or if you won't do the obvious, just wrap yourself with a nice sari/toga from any bit of cloth.

quote:

Originally posted by Chumpy:
As I said, get lots of adequate cheap suits or equivalent for all occasions (same goes for audio-systems really).

The fashions come/go and return.

It helps not to put on weight over the years - I did last year/found suits wouldn't fit/lost weight/now they do. I have not worn suits since 'refit', as I know that jackets/trousers etc do trick in all settings.

IMO it's only a worthless plonker/set of plonkers who would judge you by whether you had on a £30 outfit or a £30000 suit.

Or if you won't do the obvious, just wrap yourself with a nice sari/toga from any bit of cloth.

A suit is your badge of authority. It is a uniform like any other. There were lots of kids at school who had slightly shiny blazers and a minority who didn't. To those in the know a suit offers obvious clues as to your class, status, wealth, profession and confidence in your postion in life.
A soldier knows who is the captain and who is the cook when both are wearing unifiorms. A suit can speak volumes. Much like body language can be read by those who recognise the more or less subtle clues.

Unfortunately those who wear suits are the only ones likely to recognise the obvious signals you are giving off in your choice of cloth, lining, detail, cut and fit. They are also likely to be the only ones you are trying to impress. If you don't have a clue what you are saying with your clothes then you'd better seek out an expert rather than listen to the advice of a bunch of amateurs.
Otherwise you could end up looking like a homosexual, south-american, drugs billionaire with superb taste but completely colour blind.

Who thinks Charlie Watts wears nice suits?