green snaps led dead
Posted by: Guido on 29 January 2002
First I thought only the knob position is wrong, the hole in the knob not being in place to show the little green bugger.
After an exhausting search through all my drawers the tiniest optometrist's screwdriver I have did the job, got the knob free, set it perfectly, reconnected power and: nothing. Plain darkness.
Opened the case, removed the knob again, but no idea how to remove the led, what part to use as a replacement and the fear of damaging the cable by using force in the wrong place.
Searched the forum but only advice for 250 bulbs found.
Any advice?
Guido
This is what I found on my Snaps but yours may of course differ...
If you examine the leads that the LED is connected to and follow them to the point that they exit the case you will see a small black plastic ring. This locks the LED into place in its small, black, plastic holder. A torch or good light will help you see this. Use your little screwdriver to carefully lever the ring back along the leads thus freeing the LED from the holder.
Care is required when moving the LED supply wires as the +ve (orange?) wire has a small resistor soldered in between the LED and the wire inside, the black heat shrink insulation.
Remember to unplug everything before you start ![]()
Hope that helps
Regards
Andy
Erik
Bring your SNAPS to your dealer, it should be able to repace it (red or green) safely.
I'm always asked to put a green one.
Emmanuel
The SNAPS LED is fed from the raw DC supply, via a resistor (3k3 IIRC). The resistor used by Naim is not really of adequate power capability, bearing in mind it's heavily thermally insulated under some rubber sleeving. It has a tendency to heat up, and, over time, fail.
Every single 110 or SNAPS I've ever seen has had this problem - replacing the resistor with a slightly higher wattage device is the cure, you'll notice it runs warm in normal use.
The resistor is located under the rubber sleeving behind the LED - carefully slide it back up the wire to reveal the cooked component. You'll find the sleeving over the LED has probably gone hard and burnt itself to the resistor, just chop the resistor out and fit a new one (>=0.6W rated) and resleeve.
Andy.
P.S. Check with a meter first, it may be the LED, but my money's on the resistor.
Paul
quote:
I think Hicaps have always been green.
My old-style Hi-Cap is red; I am presuming it was always red, though I've only owned it for a couple months (questionable pedigree).
Can anyone from Naim shed a little light on this rather trivial topic?
Erik
quote:
Has anyone done any listening comparisons between Red and Green LED'd Snaps/Hicaps or Pre's...
Absolutely.
I found the green LEDs to be more visually appealing; however, being that they emit a shorter wave length (e.g., 0.55 microns versus 0.7 microns), I found that they tended to over-emphasize the high end of the electromagnetic spectrum relative to the red LEDs. With the decidedly increased brilliance of the green LED, I found it nearly impossible to listen to Yma Sumac.
Does anyone know where to obtain infrared LEDs?
Erik
- resistor or led -
I haven't soldered anything since 15 years - and even at that time I was a bl**dy soldering green horn. But: You have to improve your skills, at least to try to.
So a soldering iron is to be bought (somewhere between 10 and 30 W I suppose).
As solder material: any no gos? Or just plain usual " a dozen a dime" solder?
Does anyone know whether the resistor Andrew mentioned is named identically in Germany?
The job will be started on Saturday, supplies should be bought before
and
What type of Led to buy, does anyone know?
Regards
Guido