EBC pads for old hope mini disc brakes
Posted by: prc on 25 May 2007
Has anyone tried EBC pads be it on the minis or some other disc brake? Have had some problems getting original hope pads (cheap) and was thinking of trying EBC (probably the reds). Any opinions
Thanks,
Paulo
Thanks,
Paulo
I regularly use EBC Green Stuff pads on my 120bhp 1380cc monster.... I love 'em, and they work well... BUT you need to carefully match your discs to them unless you fancy a new pair of discs to every two sets of pads.
Experimentation has led me to Pagid discs.
As I use standard calipers I've chosen the Pagid 16 groove solid disc.
These work well with the green stuff, aren't stupidly costly, and stand up to the hefty braking involved when I have the occasional blast through the Sussex countryside tempting my best mate to keep up with me in his Lotus Elsie!
Experimentation has led me to Pagid discs.
As I use standard calipers I've chosen the Pagid 16 groove solid disc.
These work well with the green stuff, aren't stupidly costly, and stand up to the hefty braking involved when I have the occasional blast through the Sussex countryside tempting my best mate to keep up with me in his Lotus Elsie!
A very nice 'proper' Mini.
Cheers
Steve
Cheers
Steve
Glad you like it... absolute hoot to drive, and being a 6'3" hefty lad I don't half get some funny looks when I park and unfold myself from behind the wheel.....
Not as good as the looks I get though when it embarasses some herbert or wilf in their Max-power'd citroens, pugs & novas.....
Not as good as the looks I get though when it embarasses some herbert or wilf in their Max-power'd citroens, pugs & novas.....
The quickest accelerating standard Mini was actually the Pick-up when fitted with the standard 1000cc engine, because this sat with a beefed up version of the 850 ratio-ed gear box! 80 mph was not quite possible, but 0 to 60 was tremendous! It was lighter than the similarly specified van.
I learned to drive in one. It was great fun at the lights, and cornered light on rails!
It had the worst brakes of any vehical I ever drove. Four pathetic little drums with manual adjusters...
This one is an 850 cc model from 1971. Ours was a 1973 1000 cc model. Fantastic little truck! When I passed my test the first real trip was from Herefordshire to Cumbria for a week's holiday in the Lakes with my brother. "Tell Me Why I Don't Like Mondays," was in the charts at the time!. The wee machine averaged 63 mpg!
ATB from Fredrik
I learned to drive in one. It was great fun at the lights, and cornered light on rails!
It had the worst brakes of any vehical I ever drove. Four pathetic little drums with manual adjusters...
This one is an 850 cc model from 1971. Ours was a 1973 1000 cc model. Fantastic little truck! When I passed my test the first real trip was from Herefordshire to Cumbria for a week's holiday in the Lakes with my brother. "Tell Me Why I Don't Like Mondays," was in the charts at the time!. The wee machine averaged 63 mpg!
ATB from Fredrik
Mark,
The car's originally a 1275 Single Point Injection Cooper - a mk6, before the addition of airbags, seatbelt pre-tensioners and a higher final drive to lower drive-by noise at motorway speeds.
The engine currently in place was originally a 1988 1275cc unit which lived once in a metro.
This block was sourced specifically because the legal requirement for a catalytic converter hinges around the age of the block, and not the car in which it sits.
The lump was overbored +40thou to give me a 1380cc unit. From here we went through a number of options for the head, settling on a Minispeed Concept37 head (37mm inlet, 29.5mm exhaust), kitted out with a 1.5:1 ratio full roller tipped rocker assembly for high lift.
As the car only ever runs on Shell V-power the block was skimmed and mated to this head to give a 13.5:1 compression ratio. Double iskendarian valve springs and waisted sodium filled valves were used.
The block has had a centre main-strap fitted to prevent crankshaft flex at high revs.
A nitrided, bladed and wedged cross-drilled crank was sourced, and balanced to a lightweight flywheel.
Steel H-section rods similarly balanced to this with JE pistons (5cc dish - still maintaining the 13.5:1 ratio though, as these were factored in at the dry build stage).
During the running in period the cam in place was a crossed drilled billet Swiftune SW5i, with induction from a modified rover throttle body and the Rover MEMS ecu still working nicely despite all the changes. Exhaust is a large-bore stainless steel RC40 running through to a single box DTM twin pipe rear, from a stainless steel LCB manifold.
After the first thousand miles the unit was stripped again, and two things were replaced.
Out came the SW5i cam, and in went a billet x-drilled 286. To match to this an Omex ECU, with Jenvy throttle body and custom inlet manifold were fitted.
Another 500 miles of pootling with a basic ECU map ran this combination in, and then it was time to custom-map the ECU....
What we have now is a SCREAMER... 120bhp @ 7250rpm, 117lb/ft torque from 5600rpm, and an 8500rpm redline. Given how light the car is you're looking at nearly 235bhp/tonne - more still if I stay off the pies for a month
Sounds like a light aircraft, goes like a cat with a rocket up its' arse
As previously discussed the brakes have been suitably improved, and along with the engine mods a very strong gearbox was specced - twin x-pin diff, 3.44:1 final drive, but resisted the temptation for a Limited Slip Diff.
The floorpan has been strengthened and both subframes are solid-mounted - turn-in is razor sharp.
Despite all of this, there's very little to tell the untrained observer of the car's potential - she sits an inch lower than standard - on Yoko A539's, the twin-exhaust box is obvious, but not overstated, and the bonnet stripes are no longer the vinyl stickers the car came with, but are painted, and carry on up to the base of the screen just like the '60s circuit cars.
Looking at Fredder's family's 1000cc this is a very different animal - 63mpg huh? Mine does 26mpg when driven slowly - which means I actually get about 21mpg if I'm lucky.
Best bit.... the other half loves the car more than I do, so the costly side of maintaining it gets full approval!!!
The car's originally a 1275 Single Point Injection Cooper - a mk6, before the addition of airbags, seatbelt pre-tensioners and a higher final drive to lower drive-by noise at motorway speeds.
The engine currently in place was originally a 1988 1275cc unit which lived once in a metro.
This block was sourced specifically because the legal requirement for a catalytic converter hinges around the age of the block, and not the car in which it sits.
The lump was overbored +40thou to give me a 1380cc unit. From here we went through a number of options for the head, settling on a Minispeed Concept37 head (37mm inlet, 29.5mm exhaust), kitted out with a 1.5:1 ratio full roller tipped rocker assembly for high lift.
As the car only ever runs on Shell V-power the block was skimmed and mated to this head to give a 13.5:1 compression ratio. Double iskendarian valve springs and waisted sodium filled valves were used.
The block has had a centre main-strap fitted to prevent crankshaft flex at high revs.
A nitrided, bladed and wedged cross-drilled crank was sourced, and balanced to a lightweight flywheel.
Steel H-section rods similarly balanced to this with JE pistons (5cc dish - still maintaining the 13.5:1 ratio though, as these were factored in at the dry build stage).
During the running in period the cam in place was a crossed drilled billet Swiftune SW5i, with induction from a modified rover throttle body and the Rover MEMS ecu still working nicely despite all the changes. Exhaust is a large-bore stainless steel RC40 running through to a single box DTM twin pipe rear, from a stainless steel LCB manifold.
After the first thousand miles the unit was stripped again, and two things were replaced.
Out came the SW5i cam, and in went a billet x-drilled 286. To match to this an Omex ECU, with Jenvy throttle body and custom inlet manifold were fitted.
Another 500 miles of pootling with a basic ECU map ran this combination in, and then it was time to custom-map the ECU....
What we have now is a SCREAMER... 120bhp @ 7250rpm, 117lb/ft torque from 5600rpm, and an 8500rpm redline. Given how light the car is you're looking at nearly 235bhp/tonne - more still if I stay off the pies for a month
Sounds like a light aircraft, goes like a cat with a rocket up its' arse
As previously discussed the brakes have been suitably improved, and along with the engine mods a very strong gearbox was specced - twin x-pin diff, 3.44:1 final drive, but resisted the temptation for a Limited Slip Diff.
The floorpan has been strengthened and both subframes are solid-mounted - turn-in is razor sharp.
Despite all of this, there's very little to tell the untrained observer of the car's potential - she sits an inch lower than standard - on Yoko A539's, the twin-exhaust box is obvious, but not overstated, and the bonnet stripes are no longer the vinyl stickers the car came with, but are painted, and carry on up to the base of the screen just like the '60s circuit cars.
Looking at Fredder's family's 1000cc this is a very different animal - 63mpg huh? Mine does 26mpg when driven slowly - which means I actually get about 21mpg if I'm lucky.
Best bit.... the other half loves the car more than I do, so the costly side of maintaining it gets full approval!!!
Just my cup of tea - a standard looking car with properly engineered modifications.
Cheers
Steve
Cheers
Steve
When time & money permit I plan a similar campaign on a '63 woody traveller estate... probably go supercharged on that though, so could be up to 180bhp, and it'll look very original - like it should belong to a district nurse from Heartbeat.....
If that doesn't piss off the chavs I'll buy a hat and eat it
If that doesn't piss off the chavs I'll buy a hat and eat it
Glad you like it!
I wouldn't go with turgid pads - I mean Pagid... the discs are great but the pads fade - if you drive anywhere near as enthusiastically as I do you'll hate them.
Also, Red stuff are too extreme for roads... EBC Green + Pagid discs is a combo I cannot better without going the whole 6pot ventilated disc route.
Bung a pic of your machine too if ya can
I wouldn't go with turgid pads - I mean Pagid... the discs are great but the pads fade - if you drive anywhere near as enthusiastically as I do you'll hate them.
Also, Red stuff are too extreme for roads... EBC Green + Pagid discs is a combo I cannot better without going the whole 6pot ventilated disc route.
Bung a pic of your machine too if ya can
Will get one up when the car gets out of the shop...
Paulo
Paulo
Paulo ,
I think most third party pads will work well with the original "Mini's" if you have trouble getting Hope pads . However , you may get a fair amount of squeal from your brakes even when bedded in . This is a old problem with Hope but can be sorted out by dabbing some copper-eze behind the pads .
I am on my fifth bike in the last ten years
( upgraditis ) but the brakes are still the same , only the pads change !
I think most third party pads will work well with the original "Mini's" if you have trouble getting Hope pads . However , you may get a fair amount of squeal from your brakes even when bedded in . This is a old problem with Hope but can be sorted out by dabbing some copper-eze behind the pads .
I am on my fifth bike in the last ten years
( upgraditis ) but the brakes are still the same , only the pads change !