Does lenght really matter?
Posted by: redeye on 06 January 2002
A well respected audio dealer said to me the other day that running in a 'good' pair of speakers can take anything up to one year!!??!
Surely this guy must be hitting the bong too much.
I've heard people say 2 to 3 months max before all is well, maybe 6 in the case of Naims 
Any experiences you'd like to share....?
Alex
We all know that amps need a check over at say 8 or 10 years but what about speakers.
My Briks sound great, really bang out the sound and as far as I know are totally original. They from 1988.
So how long before they get tired ?
Regards
Mick
Alex
when you get tired of listening to them.
quote:
Originally posted by Mick Parry:
My Briks sound great, really bang out the sound and as far as I know are totally original. They from 1988.So how long before they get tired ?
Mick,
yours are probably just about ready for new tweeters. You model will have the Hiquphon units. (See Tony's Pink Fish Media site for a revision list for Briks).
Search for some of my old stuff re Naim Scanspeak replacements. This was very worthwhile for me.
Also, HarryS replaced Hiqs with a later model from the same company (see this thread, page 5 onwards).
These also sound like they would be a good investment.
BTW, a bit of background on Brik tweeters:-
quote:
Date: 11-Jun-99 10:16
Author: TanaisFox
Subject: Bit of an aside really....
I had an interesting afternoon replacing a blown tweeter on my right Isobarik.It was the front one (not the upwards-pointing one) and a single unit came over from the suppliers. I'd ordered two as I wanted a spare (in case the left tweeter was different -- always good to have a spare) but this was the last until a new batch arrived next week -- in the meantime they sent over the first unit to be getting on with...
It was a simple case of unhooking the power amp from the speaker, taking out the offendingly dead ScanSpeak tweeter, soldering in the new unit, applying new mastic to the enclosure edges, slide it in and screw it back. Back in went the Canon connector and I sat back.
Ho-lee smokes! What the hell had I done? The new tweeter on the right was clear and clean and "detailed", while the old one of the left was harsh, brittle and spitty... Even though my ears are gooped to the max thanks to a virus I'm getting over, I thought it was funny how I didn't notice that before, but there it was. The new tweeter has a silky quality that is actually quite...uh... "seductive" the other one sounded like dogmeat by comparison.
So there you go, just goes to show what a hard life these little things have and that even with time its good to consider shagged driver units just as much as capacitors and more discrete components age. I can't wait for the other unit - maybe I had better replace the top units too!
TF
Isobarik-Maniac (amongst other things)
One of the good things about the forum is that you get to meet people that you normally wouldn't.
Don Atkinson from Newbury popped over this morning to compare our briks and fortunately mine seem ok.
My plan is to replace my 250 with a pair of 135's and put the 250 into the dining room. The next step is to put the Briks into the dining room on the end of the 250 and bung a set of NBL's into the lounge on the end of the 135's. I assume that the 135's are man enough for the NBL's.
I think that should keep me happy.
Regards
Mick
Alex
The plan next week will be the same....I am consistant if nothing else.
Are you implying that the NAP500 is better suited than a pair of 135's.
Regards
Mick
quote:
Originally posted by Mick Parry:
ChapsMy plan is to replace my 250 with a pair of 135's and put the 250 into the dining room. The next step is to put the Briks into the dining room on the end of the 250 and bung a set of NBL's into the lounge on the end of the 135's. I assume that the 135's are man enough for the NBL's.
Mick,
starting at the end, passive 135s work very well on NBLs. Query whether you'd prefer NAP500/Isobariks?
You say your speakers are 1988? Do they have the external crossovers (mounted on a large wooden board within the stands)?
If not, (and this will imply serial numbers in the range 5575-6700), then you might like to consider 2xNAP250 instead of 2x135s. The three front drivers can be powered by a separate amp to the top mid & treble and the internal bass.
The 250s have a much easier time, which may be more important than the quality improvement from the 135s. This is also a stepping point to 3x250 & active, which would position you superbly for NBLs or DBLs in the future.
cheers, Martin
graphoman
Sorry about not coming back earlier but it has been a heavy week as they say.
The Briks are actually 1986 and have open Linn stands. I am having some s/h Mana units delivered soon, so hopefully that will improve them even more. Everyone reckons they improve the sound and there is only one way to find out.
I must confess that I am totally lost on your comments about the 250's.
Are you saying that for passive mode, a pair of 250's is better than a pair of 135's.
Eagerly awaiting your reply.
Regards
Mick
NB...Graphoman...you are restricted by the length of cables, so you cannot do what you suggested.
quote:
Originally posted by Mick Parry:
MartinSorry about not coming back earlier but it has been a heavy week as they say.
S'fine.
[/QUOTE]The Briks are actually 1986 and have open Linn stands.
...
Are you saying that for passive mode, a pair of 250's is better than a pair of 135's.[/QUOTE]
A pair of 250's cannot be used with a 1986 pair of speakers.
A 1987-1988 pair (s/no's 5575-6700) can be divided into two symetrical parts. This turns a speaker which is a pig to drive into two parts which are relatively ordinary loads. This is a much easier job for the pair of 250s.
If your serial number is not in the range above, then forget this option.
cheers, Martin