Finishing wood
Posted by: garyi on 14 July 2005
Ok, I now have my tung oil, (Smells lovely) and have three weeks before we need to start fitting our work tops.
I have made a conscious decision to take my time and get the best out of our investment which is 9 metres of 40mm deep beech work top.
I am just after the procedure to get the best from this wood. I have read elsewhere that around 6 coats of tung oil with around a days dry time between each coat is a good thing.
I have also read about using wire wool on it. Is this a good thing?
Also would I be able to use, say a coat of bees wax to give a shine at the end or best left?
Many thanks.
I have made a conscious decision to take my time and get the best out of our investment which is 9 metres of 40mm deep beech work top.
I am just after the procedure to get the best from this wood. I have read elsewhere that around 6 coats of tung oil with around a days dry time between each coat is a good thing.
I have also read about using wire wool on it. Is this a good thing?
Also would I be able to use, say a coat of bees wax to give a shine at the end or best left?
Many thanks.
Posted on: 14 July 2005 by Steve Bull
Hi Gary.
I had to do something similar a couple of years ago with the walnut worktop in my kitchen. Although I used Danish oil, I imagine the process to be the same. If you're happy that the surface is smooth, go to step 1. If not, you may need to sand it down - my worktop is made from american walnut floorboards laid on a base of OSB so I had a fair amount of work with a belt-sander first.
1. Run over the worktop with a tack cloth (B&Q/any DIY or hardware store) to pick up any loose bits - you don't want these finding their way into the oil.
2. Lightly apply a coat of oil with a clean lint-free cloth, working along the grain - enough to soak into to worksurface but not enough to leave pools of the stuff. After it's started to soak in (10-20 mins? before it start to go tacky anyway), give a quick wipe over to pick up any excess otherwise it will go horribly sticky and you'll need to sand it back and start again.
3. Repeat step 2 until you've put on three coats. Keep any other liquids well away from the worksurface at this point, they will stain and you'll have to sand back and start all over again.
4. By now you should start to build up a good sheen to the wood, but three coats isn't enough to cope with the rigours of kitchen use so...
5. Use 00000 grade wire wool (at that grade it's more like rough cotton wool than wire wool) and *lightly* rub over the surface, again going with the grain. The aim is to just dull the sheen, not go right back to bare wood!
6. Hoover the bulk of the dust of with the fluffy nozzle tool then get the rest with another tack cloth.
7. Apply another coat of oil and wipe off the excess as you did in step 2.
8. Repeat steps 5 to 7 as many times as your patience/willpower/elbow will permit.
9. Final coat just gets wiped down once you're done.
10. Stand back and admire the worktop.
I think I put about six coats on my worktop all-told. The more you use, the better protected the surface will be. Despite that, make sure any spills are wiped up asap.
Every few months, remove any debris, rub down/hoover/tack-cloth then apply another coat or two as per above to renew protection and enhance appearances.
I know, it's bloody hard work, but the results are worth it and are directly related to the care and effort that goes in to doing the job. It can't be rushed or bodged if you want a good finish.
If you need any more detail or have any questions, post back or mail me on steve [dot] bull [at] mac [dot] com.
Regards, Steve.
I had to do something similar a couple of years ago with the walnut worktop in my kitchen. Although I used Danish oil, I imagine the process to be the same. If you're happy that the surface is smooth, go to step 1. If not, you may need to sand it down - my worktop is made from american walnut floorboards laid on a base of OSB so I had a fair amount of work with a belt-sander first.
1. Run over the worktop with a tack cloth (B&Q/any DIY or hardware store) to pick up any loose bits - you don't want these finding their way into the oil.
2. Lightly apply a coat of oil with a clean lint-free cloth, working along the grain - enough to soak into to worksurface but not enough to leave pools of the stuff. After it's started to soak in (10-20 mins? before it start to go tacky anyway), give a quick wipe over to pick up any excess otherwise it will go horribly sticky and you'll need to sand it back and start again.
3. Repeat step 2 until you've put on three coats. Keep any other liquids well away from the worksurface at this point, they will stain and you'll have to sand back and start all over again.
4. By now you should start to build up a good sheen to the wood, but three coats isn't enough to cope with the rigours of kitchen use so...
5. Use 00000 grade wire wool (at that grade it's more like rough cotton wool than wire wool) and *lightly* rub over the surface, again going with the grain. The aim is to just dull the sheen, not go right back to bare wood!
6. Hoover the bulk of the dust of with the fluffy nozzle tool then get the rest with another tack cloth.
7. Apply another coat of oil and wipe off the excess as you did in step 2.
8. Repeat steps 5 to 7 as many times as your patience/willpower/elbow will permit.
9. Final coat just gets wiped down once you're done.
10. Stand back and admire the worktop.
I think I put about six coats on my worktop all-told. The more you use, the better protected the surface will be. Despite that, make sure any spills are wiped up asap.
Every few months, remove any debris, rub down/hoover/tack-cloth then apply another coat or two as per above to renew protection and enhance appearances.
I know, it's bloody hard work, but the results are worth it and are directly related to the care and effort that goes in to doing the job. It can't be rushed or bodged if you want a good finish.
If you need any more detail or have any questions, post back or mail me on steve [dot] bull [at] mac [dot] com.
Regards, Steve.
Posted on: 15 July 2005 by j8hn
I've never heard of Tung Oil being used on a worktop before. I'm sure it's poisonous, will "taint" any food prepared on it and will be a smelly noxious process.
Easiest, cheapest and most palatable solution is to use Walnut Oil. This can be obtained in 250/500 ml bottles at your local supermarket. Rub the oil sparingly into the wood with a clean soft rag. Leave it to soak in [4-6 hours] and apply again approx 6-12 times [ie over about a week]. Make sure no oil remains on the surface as it will dry to a sticky coat. The idea is to "feed" the wood slowly so that the oil can really penetrate.
This finish can then be easily maintained over time, say every 6 months, by rubbing the wood down with a Scotchbrite pad and re-applying a top up coat of oil.
Easiest, cheapest and most palatable solution is to use Walnut Oil. This can be obtained in 250/500 ml bottles at your local supermarket. Rub the oil sparingly into the wood with a clean soft rag. Leave it to soak in [4-6 hours] and apply again approx 6-12 times [ie over about a week]. Make sure no oil remains on the surface as it will dry to a sticky coat. The idea is to "feed" the wood slowly so that the oil can really penetrate.
This finish can then be easily maintained over time, say every 6 months, by rubbing the wood down with a Scotchbrite pad and re-applying a top up coat of oil.
Posted on: 16 July 2005 by garyi
Tung oil is from the Japanese tung tree nut.
It has been used for centuries in the kitchen as it is totally food safe and recommended for childrens wood toys. Its also one of the ingredients in danish oil.
It has been used for centuries in the kitchen as it is totally food safe and recommended for childrens wood toys. Its also one of the ingredients in danish oil.
Posted on: 16 July 2005 by Nime
Tung oil has been recommended for protecting the brasswork of historical astronomical telescopes.
Walnut oil is used by some for the bores of wooden recorders. Others warn against the dangers of the oil becoming rancid under these circumstances.
Neither application has anything to do with worktops. I used Junkers Oil applied at intervals in many layers until no more would be absorbed. This does not protect the wood where water lies for long periods. Nor will it protect the end grain where sinks or taps require the wood to be cut despite the application of enough oil to obtain a shine. Beech will turn black locally under these circumstances.
Walnut oil is used by some for the bores of wooden recorders. Others warn against the dangers of the oil becoming rancid under these circumstances.
Neither application has anything to do with worktops. I used Junkers Oil applied at intervals in many layers until no more would be absorbed. This does not protect the wood where water lies for long periods. Nor will it protect the end grain where sinks or taps require the wood to be cut despite the application of enough oil to obtain a shine. Beech will turn black locally under these circumstances.