Driving 'Phones
Posted by: Simon B on 03 December 2002
Hi Guys,
I am thinking of getting hold of a pair of Sennheiser HD-600 headphones.
Now I know that conventional wisdom says Headline + Flatcap but this increases the cost quite a bit (even 2nd hand) and I would need to put the tape boards back into my 32.5 (not sure I want to do this).
Search results suggest that I can drive the phones from the HI-CAP, but does this work with a 32.5 (52 was OK)?
If this is a no-no I do have a spare Nait 02 and could wire the HD-600 to the speaker outputs. Did I imagine that this has been done?
Any one tried any one of the above?
Simon
(CDi,NAT02,32.5,HI,250,NACA5,EPOS ES11) + NAIT2
I am thinking of getting hold of a pair of Sennheiser HD-600 headphones.
Now I know that conventional wisdom says Headline + Flatcap but this increases the cost quite a bit (even 2nd hand) and I would need to put the tape boards back into my 32.5 (not sure I want to do this).
Search results suggest that I can drive the phones from the HI-CAP, but does this work with a 32.5 (52 was OK)?
If this is a no-no I do have a spare Nait 02 and could wire the HD-600 to the speaker outputs. Did I imagine that this has been done?
Any one tried any one of the above?
Simon
(CDi,NAT02,32.5,HI,250,NACA5,EPOS ES11) + NAIT2
Posted on: 03 December 2002 by David Hobbs-Mallyon
Simon,
A cheaper option is Headline + NAPSC.
David
A cheaper option is Headline + NAPSC.
David
Posted on: 03 December 2002 by Martin Clark
Driving headphones off speaker outputs is a snap. Make up this simple circuit, one for each channel:
+ve ----100ohm---+--100ohm-o to headphone
l
20ohm
l
0 --------------+---------o gnd
In case the ascii don't work, the 20ohm resistor goes between the two '+'s.
Notes:
1. You can't do this if the amp is bridged - this would probably kill a NAP500, because headphone 0v connection is commoned between channels.
2. This circuit essentially gives the output impedance that Sennheisers are designed around (120ohms), set by an IEC standard - so although the big resistors look wrong, it is actually correct.
3. It can sound stonkingly good. I actually use some HD565s driven by a modded Quad 405/2 like this as my main rig; it leaves a lot of raved-about gear standing.
M.
+ve ----100ohm---+--100ohm-o to headphone
l
20ohm
l
0 --------------+---------o gnd
In case the ascii don't work, the 20ohm resistor goes between the two '+'s.
Notes:
1. You can't do this if the amp is bridged - this would probably kill a NAP500, because headphone 0v connection is commoned between channels.
2. This circuit essentially gives the output impedance that Sennheisers are designed around (120ohms), set by an IEC standard - so although the big resistors look wrong, it is actually correct.
3. It can sound stonkingly good. I actually use some HD565s driven by a modded Quad 405/2 like this as my main rig; it leaves a lot of raved-about gear standing.
M.
Posted on: 03 December 2002 by Simon B
Thanks for the quick responses!
Nick -
Thanks for the offer; the Rega does look a competitive option (£120 new). Could I run it off the HI-Cap so I don't need to put the tape boards in the 32.5?
Martin -
I will only use the speaker connection method if I can use the NAIT2 so then I don't need to unplug the speakers all the time. Bearing in mind that I don't know anything about electronics but can solder (good combination?) what’s the best method of putting this together?
Simon
Nick -
Thanks for the offer; the Rega does look a competitive option (£120 new). Could I run it off the HI-Cap so I don't need to put the tape boards in the 32.5?
Martin -
I will only use the speaker connection method if I can use the NAIT2 so then I don't need to unplug the speakers all the time. Bearing in mind that I don't know anything about electronics but can solder (good combination?) what’s the best method of putting this together?
Simon
Posted on: 03 December 2002 by Martin Clark
Simon -
Small plastic box four banana plugs and a headphone socket from Maplin - spring for the decent Neutrik socket, it's worth it.
Mark spacing of speaker cable sockets on back of amp, drill box and screw just the banana pins in matching the pattern. Mount socket on one edge of the box, then wire in the resistors between the appropriate pins and tabs on the socket, cut to length as required. NB on a headphone plug the tip is Left channel, the ring Right channel, and the long section is 0v connection for both.
Plug completed box in the back of the amp, turn on, then plug in phones and enjoy. Keep the amp on, or unplug phones before turning on/off - many amps have a startup/shutdown thump that, even attenuated, will do the phones no good at all.
M
Small plastic box four banana plugs and a headphone socket from Maplin - spring for the decent Neutrik socket, it's worth it.
Mark spacing of speaker cable sockets on back of amp, drill box and screw just the banana pins in matching the pattern. Mount socket on one edge of the box, then wire in the resistors between the appropriate pins and tabs on the socket, cut to length as required. NB on a headphone plug the tip is Left channel, the ring Right channel, and the long section is 0v connection for both.
Plug completed box in the back of the amp, turn on, then plug in phones and enjoy. Keep the amp on, or unplug phones before turning on/off - many amps have a startup/shutdown thump that, even attenuated, will do the phones no good at all.
M
Posted on: 04 December 2002 by Simon B
Martin,
Thank you very much for the description. It sounds straight forward enough. I think I will use fly leads to connect the bananas though then it will work on my NAIT2 or NAP250.
I take it that running without the NACA5 is OK?
Simon
Thank you very much for the description. It sounds straight forward enough. I think I will use fly leads to connect the bananas though then it will work on my NAIT2 or NAP250.
I take it that running without the NACA5 is OK?
Simon
Posted on: 04 December 2002 by Martin Clark
Yes - NAC5 is inductive enough to protect the amplifier driving reactive loads. Headphones are resistive, and a trivial load compared with a loudspeaker, so no problem.
M.
M.
Posted on: 04 December 2002 by Simon B
Martin,
Maplins have 100 ohm resistors in 3,5 and 10W configurations. Is 10W ok - seeing as I will be using them with a 75W amp? Also should I be using special HI-FI versions?
Simon
Maplins have 100 ohm resistors in 3,5 and 10W configurations. Is 10W ok - seeing as I will be using them with a 75W amp? Also should I be using special HI-FI versions?
Simon
Posted on: 04 December 2002 by Martin Clark
Simon - just the plain 1W metal film type are fine, because the load impedance is so high the amp is not transfering any significant power.
Have fun.
M.
Have fun.
M.
Posted on: 06 December 2002 by bazz
I've used Audio Technica ATH911 phones straight from a hicap for years without any problems.
Just get an old pre-power cable, cut one end off, solder an in-line headphone socket on and plug the other end into the spare power amp outlet on the hi. No need to put the tape buffer boards back in the 32.5.
The impedance match may be wrong but it still sounds great.
Just get an old pre-power cable, cut one end off, solder an in-line headphone socket on and plug the other end into the spare power amp outlet on the hi. No need to put the tape buffer boards back in the 32.5.
The impedance match may be wrong but it still sounds great.
Posted on: 09 December 2002 by Simon B
Thanks for all the feed back, I am going the connect to the power amp route. I have bought all the bits and should be assembling it all this weekend. I will let you know how I get on.
In the future I may wire a feed to my Nait2 off the Hi-cap so I don't have to play around with the NAP250.
Simon
In the future I may wire a feed to my Nait2 off the Hi-cap so I don't have to play around with the NAP250.
Simon
Posted on: 10 December 2002 by Steve Toy
quote:
Rega EAR vote
I run my HD600s off a Rega Ear. It doesn't need an external power supply, other than the supplied "wallwart" one. Sounds very good.
I use this exact combination but I'm not terribly happy with the bass. It lacks the drive and articulation I get through my amps and speakers. I suspect the main culprit is the Nordost Solar Wind interconnect from the tape loop to the Ear.
I am aware also of the Cardas upgrade cable, but I'm not sure how I'd remove the old one and attach it. With HD590s, the cable is detachable. With the 600s, it isn't.
Regards,
Steve.