Hi everyone!
Today I received my Kan IIs couriered to me from my mother's house. I've had these lovelies for about 10 years and they formed the basis of my primary Naim system up North.
To cut a long story short, I built a 2nd system in London, Linn based and consisting of a Genki/Kolektor/LK140/LP12/Lingo/Akito/K9/Katans - which has now become my primary system.
What I wanted to do was to compare and contrast the performance between the Katans and Kans. Also, there was the memory of hearing Kan IIs for the first time in an all-Linn system some 10 years ago - consisting of an LP12/Valhalla/Ittok/K18/LK1/LK280 and Kan IIs. My memory was that it was very different sounding system than when I initially had my Kans in a Naim-based system... Something that is consistent with this test.
So, I boxed the Katans up and move them (and their stands) out of the listening room - giving the benefits of a single speaker demonstration. As usual, the Kans needed about an hour of warming up before their treble-ringing-effect is significantly reduced. Also I had move the stands about an inch-and-a-half closer in order to add more solidity and presence to the musicians.
The room is rather good for small loudspeakers, the main room of the flat being essentially a converted garage. The Kans are firing across the width, with the sofa being against the back wall (which helps to enhance the perception of bass). The 'speakers have plenty of room to the side of them, they're two inches from the back wall and the stands are level, stable and assembled to vein buldging tightness.
In terms of general impressions, in the context of a Linn system the Kans have an "earthy character" and a secure-integrated-confidence. Very dark sounding too. It is a fantastic sounding loudspeaker, not one that flies off the handle, and is very capable sounding providing you don't push it too far.
On the other hand, the Katans are far more tuneful, they are far more expressive. Katans soar like a bird and sing with the tune. No, the Katans are not a lightweight, in fact they produce far more heft in the bass than the Kans, FAR FAR MORE HEFT (this one's for you Tony 
). However, whereas the Katans run around with glee singing along, the Kans are more sober in their earthiness.
Treble in the Katans are finer too, and they reveal more inner-detail within each musical note. They project more scale too, although the Kans offer a level of comfort in their smaller (maybe tidier) scale.
Here's another suprise. In the foot-tap-test the Katans seem to time better (although the Kan's timing is improving as they warm up more).
Now here's what clinched it. A couple of tracks did freak-out the Kans causing their bass units to hit their end-stops, producing a cardboardy vibration and rattle. You won't be surprised to know the culprits were a couple a dance/trip-hop tracks; from Tosca's 'Chocolate Elvis' and Leggo Beast's 'From Here to G'. The track from Leggo Beast was 'Dream Topping', which also freaked out a pair of Dynaudio Contour 1.1 when previously auditioning them against Katans at a dealer. Dream Topping is a real test for mini-monitors, one that the Katans pass but the Dynaudios and sadly the Kans fail.
Overall, the Katans out-kan the Kan. However, I'll be changing over from the Kan IIs to the Katans tonight... who knows what will happen?
Andrew
Andrew Randle
Currently in the "Linn Binn"
[This message was edited by Andrew Randle on WEDNESDAY 13 March 2002 at 16:31.]
Posted on: 14 March 2002 by Ron The Mon
Andrew,
You neatly skipped over the part about what speaker wire and what configuration of speaker wire you're using and if you ran both Kan and Katan the same way. This is the Naim forum and it is a clear fact that any newer Linn speaker sounds better with the binding post links removed and run single wire. I mention this because I heard the Katan the first day it came out at my dealers and they hadn't yet removed the links(they actually use a clever connector made up of speaker wire and binding posts for demo, one for bi-wire, one for tri-wire). When the links were removed, the differences between speakers were less. BTW, I compared my Kan1s(w new tweeters) and Tukans to the Katans. Passively, the Katans were the clear winner. However, active is a different story! The best VFM is if you have older Kans or Tukans, buy the new neodymium tweeter that comes in the Katan; it gets you 90% of the Katan for the cost of 7 CDs.
The most important part Andrew left out was the fit and finish on the Katan. IMO, it is the nicest looking speaker Linn have produced. The wood finishes look fantastic and the style is modern yet still has a classic "Kan" heritage. Lifting and handling the Katan gives you the confidence of a well-built product. You will be surprised at the heft of it. For you married guys, the Katan is off the scale on the WAF meter; it's small, looks great, sounds unbelievable, is fairly inexpensive, and can be used as a set of rear speakers when you go HT.
BTW, for those of you that value round-earth qualities; the Katan is the goods. I last heard them on the end of a LP-12/Lingo/Ekos/Arkiv2/Linto/AV5103/Klimax and it was the most incredible soundstage I've ever heard in any speaker regardless of price (and this includes ESLs).
Is there anyone out there whose heard and seen the Katan and doesn't like it?
Ron The Mon
Posted on: 14 March 2002 by Andrew L. Weekes
When Ron-the-mon arch Kan defender and wall driller makes comments that passively the Katan beats a Kan, I sit up and listen.
The only question I have though, is do they work, in a small-ish room, hard up against the wall, in the same manner as Kans?
The praise above tempts me to try, but if they can't work within an inch of the wall I'm scuppered for space, owing to room obstacles. I'm trying to find alternatives to dem against SBL's, about the only speaker I can currently accomodate as a better Kan alternative.
Andy.
EDIT: Just downloaded the manual from the Linn site - 4-12 inches required - bugger! Maybe I'll trust Ron and buy some tweeters.
Posted on: 14 March 2002 by Ron The Mon
Yes I can confirm that ideally the Katan needs a good healthy 12 inches away from the rear wall and benefits from being slightly toed-in. It also needs its own dedicated stands. Kan2 stands or wall-mounts won't work. My dealer has sold a boatload of Katans; he claims they are selling better than the Tukans did. People have been using them in main systems, second systems, office systems, and as rear channel HT speakers, all with no complaints. In other words, "ideal" and "satisfactory" are relative depending on your expectations.
Concerning the "neodymium" tweeter business; it sounds great in both the Kan 1 and 2 except for the fact of the tweeter protector slightly protruding(stretching) throught the grille cloth of the Kan2. Personally, I can deal with a slight cosmetic blemish but then again any reason to get out the Dremel is a good one!
Ron The Mon,
Arch Kan defender and wall driller.
Posted on: 15 March 2002 by Andrew Randle
Andrew L. Weekes asked:
quote:
The only question I have though, is do they (Katans) work, in a small-ish room, hard up against the wall, in the same manner as Kans?
From my experience, Katans work best in a small room. My living room is a converted garage and they're firing across the width. Also, to get the best out of them, they are positioned fairly close (about 3-4 inches) from the wall - the effect adds more weight to the sound.
In the demo I initially heard the Katans about 8-9" away from the wall, they sounded lightweight but agile. I then asked the dealer to position them closer to the back wall (about 4-5") and the sound improved dramatically, filling out and adding more weight.
Andrew
Andrew
Andrew Randle
Currently in the "Linn Binn"
[This message was edited by Andrew Randle on FRIDAY 15 March 2002 at 10:43.]
Posted on: 15 March 2002 by Andrew Randle
Allan Probin said:
quote:
Could you explain what's changed your mind (Regarding "A vast improvement over the Tukan, but still not a Kan II beater"). Not trying to trip you up at all
The problem here was an underperforming Ikemi that was used at the time. In a subsequent demo, it was made apparent to myself and the dealer that the demo sample of the Ikemi was sounding very bland.
This lead to the false conclusion in the initial test that the Katans were less exhuberant and musical that my Kans at home.
During a third demo of the Ikemi at the same shop, I compared the CDX, Ikemi and Genki. It transpired that the Genki did indeed sound more musical, lyrical and exhuberant than the dodgey Ikemi sample.
Even with the dodgey Ikemi sample, the Katan was doing nice things, particularly with the treble.
Another effect from the initial shop-demo was that the Katans were blue-tacked onto Kan stands. Katan stands do appear to be best suited for the design.
Andrew
Andrew Randle
Currently in the "Linn Binn"
Posted on: 15 March 2002 by mykel
Keith - contact Linn at your own peril. They may or may not reply, and if they do, don't expect any real help. Hope you have better luck than I did.... anyway..
As for changing the original tweeters. ( scanspeak in my case )
Remove grills, this can be done by using a putty knife or the expansion slot covers from a pc. Protect the wood and gently pry around the edge until the grills pop.
I cut a piece of carboad to fit inside the front baffle to cover the bass unit. ( better safe than sorry )
Remove the screws.
Find a larger screw that will not go thru the hole but will give a good solid beginning fit.
Protect the wood, using a small piece of wood placed on the edge. Using a pair of plyers grasp the screw, and pry against the wood to lift the tweeter. It will take a bit of force, and will slowly start to move. When it does move, move the screw to the next hole and repeat.
Repeat the procedure until the tweeter comes free.
It WILL be stuck down with a god-awful amount of silicone ( or other mastic on later models )
Also note that on the scanspeaks the magnet structure is very large and just fits the hole, so you must remove by lifting straight out.
Check the wiring and clip the wires close to the speaker terminal. ( They may be potted as mine were )
Clean up the baffle, I used Craig Best for this job, ( Thanks Craig !! )- just peel the mastic off of the mounting surface.
Solder in the new tweeters, carefull as the wire is large and the terminals small, watch your heat or you will desolder the terminal from the tweeter before the wire if properly fixed.
Don't forget to bend the wire to remove strain off of the terminals when the tweeters are remounted. ( you may want to pot them as well )
The tweeters have a foam sealing ring on them, but I would also recomend you use silicone or other mastic.
You will probably have to replace the screws with a counter sunk variety. I went up one size (#8 I think ) to get a better bite into the cabinet.
Replace the grills, you may want to silcone them back on but I used a small piece of craft foam ( about 1/16" thick - the lenght of a match or so ) This I used on the bottom edge of the cabinet, then you place the grill on the foam and push, no rattle or buzz and very easy to remove and replace as needed.
Break-in well ( I used out of phase, facing each other with blanket covering for 24/7 for a week) I was able to hold off on listening until after breakin because my mother passed away on the same day I did the upgrade. I listened just after the upgrade, and found the new tweeters better than the scanspeaks in some regards but worse in others, I then set them up to break in and didn't get back to them until after after the funeral etc. After running in they are a whole different beast.
Very happy am I.
Enjoy . . .
Hope this helps, well break-time is over, so I gotta go. Sorry about being slow, I answered yesterday but the schools' proxy was down by the time I finished writing, so was not able to post.
regards,
michael
I can't believe the difference. These Katan babies groove and tune more than the Kans while maintaining better control over the treble and giving more bass.