How to clean the facia area, case and the glass lid of CDSII?
Posted by: Martin C on 20 April 2002
Hi there,
Help some help here, I have a open plan kitchen, the hi fi is at one end of the room and kichen on the other, the distance is at least 22-23 ft, today I noticed that it's a bit greasy (just a bit) on the glass top of CDSII. Guess the normal glass cleaner will do the job, but just to make sure, will it has any effect on the facia area se, if I spill some on it?
I read the previous thread, I should use blu tack to clean the inside of CDSII (for dust)?
What should I use to clean the case & facia area?
just a wet cloth?
cheers
Martin
Help some help here, I have a open plan kitchen, the hi fi is at one end of the room and kichen on the other, the distance is at least 22-23 ft, today I noticed that it's a bit greasy (just a bit) on the glass top of CDSII. Guess the normal glass cleaner will do the job, but just to make sure, will it has any effect on the facia area se, if I spill some on it?
I read the previous thread, I should use blu tack to clean the inside of CDSII (for dust)?
What should I use to clean the case & facia area?
just a wet cloth?
cheers
Martin
Posted on: 20 April 2002 by Craig B
Martin,
Naim once reported that they use a small sponge to clean the extruded cases post manufacturing and service. A search for 'sponge' should reveal the details.
With all of the talk of using Blu Tac to clean puck rubbers etc I decided to give the blue stuff a go as a case cleaner. Yes, you guessed it, it worked and amazingly well at that.
My reasoning for bothering with using it was that a) there would be no rubbing action and therefore little chance of scratching and b) no harmful cleaning chemicals or liquids near the kit (a cardinal rule chez Best Estates).
What I did was take a large marble sized ball and roll it out between the palm of my hand and the case surfaces. It takes a bit of time to get good coverage but my boxes haven't looked this good since they were new. This stuff gets right down into the 'grain' of the matte finish and lifts out the grunge.
Occasionally you will have to reshape the Blu Tac back into a ball and begin rolling again as a) it will become very long and string like and b) it picks up so much dirt that it loses its stickyness on the outer surface (pulling it apart and mushing it back together a few times prior to re-rolling it into a ball restores the tackiness).
Blu Tac also worked quite well at cleaning the faces of the boxes (more of a blotting action required here) so it may just work on a top loader lid as well.
I found the whole experience quite enjoyable as it brought back fond memories of my early Play Dough/Silly Putty years.
Give it a try.
Craig
PS the usual disclaimers apply here ie. at your own risk, not responsible for any Blu Tac injuries, damage to kit etc.
Naim once reported that they use a small sponge to clean the extruded cases post manufacturing and service. A search for 'sponge' should reveal the details.
With all of the talk of using Blu Tac to clean puck rubbers etc I decided to give the blue stuff a go as a case cleaner. Yes, you guessed it, it worked and amazingly well at that.
My reasoning for bothering with using it was that a) there would be no rubbing action and therefore little chance of scratching and b) no harmful cleaning chemicals or liquids near the kit (a cardinal rule chez Best Estates).
What I did was take a large marble sized ball and roll it out between the palm of my hand and the case surfaces. It takes a bit of time to get good coverage but my boxes haven't looked this good since they were new. This stuff gets right down into the 'grain' of the matte finish and lifts out the grunge.
Occasionally you will have to reshape the Blu Tac back into a ball and begin rolling again as a) it will become very long and string like and b) it picks up so much dirt that it loses its stickyness on the outer surface (pulling it apart and mushing it back together a few times prior to re-rolling it into a ball restores the tackiness).
Blu Tac also worked quite well at cleaning the faces of the boxes (more of a blotting action required here) so it may just work on a top loader lid as well.
I found the whole experience quite enjoyable as it brought back fond memories of my early Play Dough/Silly Putty years.
Give it a try.
Craig
PS the usual disclaimers apply here ie. at your own risk, not responsible for any Blu Tac injuries, damage to kit etc.
Posted on: 20 April 2002 by Mike Sae
...I could have sworn the CDSII lid is perspex, not glass?
Posted on: 20 April 2002 by garyi
and you would be right.
Posted on: 20 April 2002 by Mark Dunn
Hi Craig:
You may need to expand on your 'Sponge Worthy' title for those not familiar with Seinfeld. Personally, I didn't like the show but that particular story line was terrific.
Best Regards,
Mark Dunn‡
You may need to expand on your 'Sponge Worthy' title for those not familiar with Seinfeld. Personally, I didn't like the show but that particular story line was terrific.
Best Regards,
Mark Dunn‡
Posted on: 20 April 2002 by Rico
inded, the Sponge Worthy episode was a ripper.
Google turned up this reference.
Rico - SM/Mullet Audio
Google turned up this reference.
Rico - SM/Mullet Audio
Posted on: 20 April 2002 by sceptic
Get it right please, Craig.
Posted on: 21 April 2002 by Craig B
Sceptic,
Ok, I stand corrected on the spelling of 'Play-Doh', however AFAIK the shite sounding 'Potty Putty' never made the trans-Atlantic crossing.
Craig
Ok, I stand corrected on the spelling of 'Play-Doh', however AFAIK the shite sounding 'Potty Putty' never made the trans-Atlantic crossing.
Craig
Posted on: 23 April 2002 by dave simpson
"There is a noticeable difference in the way these pucks sound and the oldest single loop puck (with the most hours of usage by far) sounds definitely the worst."
Time to call your dealer John. If a two-ringer sounds better than a one-ringer...you're losing a lot of emotion in the music.
"Can Naim replace the loops instead of the whole puck?"
Wouldn't it be great if NANA could send us a bag of o-rings and the specified adhesive. An X-acto should do the rest. I think somebody at Naim is refurbing them. Several years ago a new one I ordered had a glue mark across from the existing o-ring. The mark indicated (to me) a "past life".
regards,
dave
Time to call your dealer John. If a two-ringer sounds better than a one-ringer...you're losing a lot of emotion in the music.
"Can Naim replace the loops instead of the whole puck?"
Wouldn't it be great if NANA could send us a bag of o-rings and the specified adhesive. An X-acto should do the rest. I think somebody at Naim is refurbing them. Several years ago a new one I ordered had a glue mark across from the existing o-ring. The mark indicated (to me) a "past life".
regards,
dave
Posted on: 23 April 2002 by jcc
Are the pucks the same for all Naim CDPs?
I have one from a CD5 and it 'looks' the same as the CDX puck.
Cheers,
jim
I have one from a CD5 and it 'looks' the same as the CDX puck.
Cheers,
jim
Posted on: 23 April 2002 by dave simpson
Hi Jim,
All current naim CDPs do use the same puck, however the older CDM4-based units used a different style puck(s). Actually you received two different ones (both pucks described as shaped like a "top hat")with your new player. One of the pucks had one o-ring and the other had two o-rings. The two o-ring puck was only intended for use with out-of-spec ceedees that skipped or wouldn't track. I *believe* the story is...the extra o-ring coupled the disk more tightly to the platter (which solved tracking problem) but at the expense of sound quality.
regards,
dave
[This message was edited by dave simpson on WEDNESDAY 24 April 2002 at 04:43.]
All current naim CDPs do use the same puck, however the older CDM4-based units used a different style puck(s). Actually you received two different ones (both pucks described as shaped like a "top hat")with your new player. One of the pucks had one o-ring and the other had two o-rings. The two o-ring puck was only intended for use with out-of-spec ceedees that skipped or wouldn't track. I *believe* the story is...the extra o-ring coupled the disk more tightly to the platter (which solved tracking problem) but at the expense of sound quality.
regards,
dave
[This message was edited by dave simpson on WEDNESDAY 24 April 2002 at 04:43.]
Posted on: 24 April 2002 by Timbo
Any advice on cleaning the CDS2 shelf, the one where the mech sits under the lid. When I put on and take off CDs I usually handle them from the side in more or less the same place. Thus leaving a small mark on the black spung shelf, this has built up and doesn't look very nice. What should I do.
Yours
Tim
(with probably too much time to think about these types of thing)
Yours
Tim
(with probably too much time to think about these types of thing)
Posted on: 24 April 2002 by dave simpson
Got the same problem Tim. Being a flat-finished coating, I'm scared to clean it also.
regards,
dave
regards,
dave
Posted on: 24 April 2002 by Martin Payne
quote:
Originally posted by dave simpson:
Got the same problem Tim. Being a flat-finished coating, I'm scared to clean it also.
regards,
dave
No bullshit - the stuff is a very expensive optical treatment, you don't want to mess it up.
Be very careful how you clean it!
cheers, Martin
Posted on: 24 April 2002 by Martin Payne
quote:
Originally posted by PeterL:
Is it alright to use isopropyl alcohol to clean the CDS2 shelf/tray? Will it damage the paint/surface?
Peter
Time for a direct e-mail to Naim, I'd say.
cheers, Martin
Posted on: 11 September 2002 by garyi
was....