Bit of help needed- NACA jumpers
Posted by: Mike Sae on 25 April 2002
Haven't gotten the chance to solder up an F arrangement yet, so I made up some jumpers as per the pic below.
It now sounds pretty crappy- everythings gone all hazy.
I much prefer the stock Neat jumpers (bits of wire). Is there a better way to do this?
[This message was edited by Mike Sae on FRIDAY 26 April 2002 at 07:07.]
It now sounds pretty crappy- everythings gone all hazy.
I much prefer the stock Neat jumpers (bits of wire). Is there a better way to do this?
[This message was edited by Mike Sae on FRIDAY 26 April 2002 at 07:07.]
Hi Mike,
This post is of great interest as I wonder about the benefits of all possible ways to attach cables to speakers.
Love your work but why did you go around and not through. I know NACA5 is a bitch to work with as I have threaded mine from bottom to top. Mine is a hard wired arrangement and is not ideal but alot easier than top to bottom. My speaker terminals are stepped and pointed upwards by 45 degrees so the arrangement is more complicated than yours.
What do other punters on the forum do?
hard wire, plugs, or F solder? or something else.
All this talk on connections and contacts is of interest to me as I feel that they are often a weak link. Plugs and sockets are obviously for convenience.
Has anyone been crazy enough to solder everything together making an "integrated" system.
Just a thought
David
This post is of great interest as I wonder about the benefits of all possible ways to attach cables to speakers.
Love your work but why did you go around and not through. I know NACA5 is a bitch to work with as I have threaded mine from bottom to top. Mine is a hard wired arrangement and is not ideal but alot easier than top to bottom. My speaker terminals are stepped and pointed upwards by 45 degrees so the arrangement is more complicated than yours.
What do other punters on the forum do?
hard wire, plugs, or F solder? or something else.
All this talk on connections and contacts is of interest to me as I feel that they are often a weak link. Plugs and sockets are obviously for convenience.
Has anyone been crazy enough to solder everything together making an "integrated" system.
Just a thought
David
Hi Allan,
I have a pair of modified Epos ES11's, I kept the existing tweeters ( liked they more than the ones used for t he ES12). I have replaced the caps for metal fiol typs, replaced internal wiring & replaced the main drivers & integral front baffles for new ES12's units! Iv'e had these little speakers for about 10 years now & I'm finding it very difficult to find a better speaker!!
Anyway getting to the pointon how I have them connected to the amp.....I'll try to describe how I have done this!
I use two naim speaker plugs per speaker(they fit perfectly one above the other) with naca5 soldered to the first plug ( bottom /bass input)then an amazingly small length of naca5 is soldered out the other side (top) of ther first plug going directly into the bottom of the second plug. When the whole thing is soldered together the two plugs are in exactally the right place for easy connection to the speakers inputs..viola!!
Hope this helps
cheers Mad Boy Matt
P.S Please tell me how you are getting on with your Eposes, like what are you using to drive them & how have you got it set up
Mad Boy Matt
I have a pair of modified Epos ES11's, I kept the existing tweeters ( liked they more than the ones used for t he ES12). I have replaced the caps for metal fiol typs, replaced internal wiring & replaced the main drivers & integral front baffles for new ES12's units! Iv'e had these little speakers for about 10 years now & I'm finding it very difficult to find a better speaker!!
Anyway getting to the pointon how I have them connected to the amp.....I'll try to describe how I have done this!
I use two naim speaker plugs per speaker(they fit perfectly one above the other) with naca5 soldered to the first plug ( bottom /bass input)then an amazingly small length of naca5 is soldered out the other side (top) of ther first plug going directly into the bottom of the second plug. When the whole thing is soldered together the two plugs are in exactally the right place for easy connection to the speakers inputs..viola!!
Hope this helps
cheers Mad Boy Matt
P.S Please tell me how you are getting on with your Eposes, like what are you using to drive them & how have you got it set up
Mad Boy Matt
Matt,
Sounds like you've basically got an F-connector there. Yes, when I posted I'd forgotten about that. I did give it some thought before I went into the ES11s but decided against it because I want to still be able to flip to my Kan 1s and didn't like the idea of having an unused pair of plugs left dangling.
These ES11s that I've picked up have been upgraded by Epos with an ES12 front-baffle and drivers. Not sure about the capacitor, the one thats in there has a yellow body. Not sure if thats the old or new(er) type. It's really easy to get inside these speakers. The front and rear baffles are clamped to the cabinet with four steel bolts that run from front to back. Just undo the bolts and the whole rear baffle can be slid back to reveal the back of the speaker terminals and the crossover (one capacitor, one resistor). Re-wiring isn't dificult with a good sized soldering iron and for me was the neatest solution.
I only bought the ES11s out of curiosity and the challenge to see if I could get a free-space speaker to work in my problematic room. I gave them a quick blast last night and thought they sounded like my Kans would sound if I placed them on the floor.
This weekend I'm going to play around with re-orienting the listening room so that the speakers are firing down the length of the room. In my room its only feasible to try this orientation with speakers that don't need to be used right up against a wall. Now I have the ES11s I can experiment away.
Allan
Sounds like you've basically got an F-connector there. Yes, when I posted I'd forgotten about that. I did give it some thought before I went into the ES11s but decided against it because I want to still be able to flip to my Kan 1s and didn't like the idea of having an unused pair of plugs left dangling.
These ES11s that I've picked up have been upgraded by Epos with an ES12 front-baffle and drivers. Not sure about the capacitor, the one thats in there has a yellow body. Not sure if thats the old or new(er) type. It's really easy to get inside these speakers. The front and rear baffles are clamped to the cabinet with four steel bolts that run from front to back. Just undo the bolts and the whole rear baffle can be slid back to reveal the back of the speaker terminals and the crossover (one capacitor, one resistor). Re-wiring isn't dificult with a good sized soldering iron and for me was the neatest solution.
I only bought the ES11s out of curiosity and the challenge to see if I could get a free-space speaker to work in my problematic room. I gave them a quick blast last night and thought they sounded like my Kans would sound if I placed them on the floor.
This weekend I'm going to play around with re-orienting the listening room so that the speakers are firing down the length of the room. In my room its only feasible to try this orientation with speakers that don't need to be used right up against a wall. Now I have the ES11s I can experiment away.
Allan
I'm presumeing if you have kans then you have the open stands designed for them? I use the dedicated stands for the eposes, it sounds to me that you prefer the sound of your kans is this so??!!.
If your cap is a yellow cylinderal type it is a bennic (1.5 farad) I changed to visatron same farad rating. Treble quality improved more refined more natural transiant responce.
I find that as far as position goes they work well being quite far apart (soundstage & focus remain excellent) mine are about 8/9 feet apart & approx 20 cms from the back wall & at least 3 feet from side walls. I would,t bother toeing them in either this in my opion increases soundstage width without the hole in the middle effect.
The only problem have is with my suspened wooden floor & bass boom, don't get me wrong its not terrible but it does need addressing, I plan to cure this by using heavy slabs of concrete/granite under each stand!!!
I'll let you know how I get on!
Cheers for now Mad Boy Matt
P.S What are you using as the rest of your kit?
Mad Boy Matt
If your cap is a yellow cylinderal type it is a bennic (1.5 farad) I changed to visatron same farad rating. Treble quality improved more refined more natural transiant responce.
I find that as far as position goes they work well being quite far apart (soundstage & focus remain excellent) mine are about 8/9 feet apart & approx 20 cms from the back wall & at least 3 feet from side walls. I would,t bother toeing them in either this in my opion increases soundstage width without the hole in the middle effect.
The only problem have is with my suspened wooden floor & bass boom, don't get me wrong its not terrible but it does need addressing, I plan to cure this by using heavy slabs of concrete/granite under each stand!!!
I'll let you know how I get on!
Cheers for now Mad Boy Matt
P.S What are you using as the rest of your kit?
Mad Boy Matt
In case it is of interest to any, here are a couple of snaps of the NAC A5 going into the back of my Kan IIs.
It was a bit of a b*st*rd to get the plugs soldered on - I recommend a really chunky bit and a decent transformer-style soldering iron! I also found it necessary to trim the black covers a bit. The plastic is very brittle so beware of flying splinters.
I seem to remember someone commenting in a previous thread that the Naim connectors are too wide to fit current Linn speakers. My Kans were Linn's old demo pair (I think) that I bought about 8 years ago and the cables and connectors are of a similar vintage. They were a pretty tight fit to start with but nothing that would damage the speakers.
Thanks,
Lawrence
[This message was edited by Lawrence Hudson on FRIDAY 26 April 2002 at 16:23.]
It was a bit of a b*st*rd to get the plugs soldered on - I recommend a really chunky bit and a decent transformer-style soldering iron! I also found it necessary to trim the black covers a bit. The plastic is very brittle so beware of flying splinters.
I seem to remember someone commenting in a previous thread that the Naim connectors are too wide to fit current Linn speakers. My Kans were Linn's old demo pair (I think) that I bought about 8 years ago and the cables and connectors are of a similar vintage. They were a pretty tight fit to start with but nothing that would damage the speakers.
Thanks,
Lawrence
[This message was edited by Lawrence Hudson on FRIDAY 26 April 2002 at 16:23.]
Mike what about this:
Peter
Peter