Starrett's Machinists levels 98-nn, Is there anything better ?

Posted by: Peter Stockwell on 28 February 2004

Or as good and cheaper ? I'm thinking of getting a 98-12 for Rack levelling purposes. Is there a European alternative ? is there a cheaper alternative. A 98-12 is c US$150.

Peter

User34 at Laposte dot net
Posted on: 28 February 2004 by sean
Peter,

While an engineers level is a fantastic instrument and may be ideal for rack setting, regardless of price it may just be a bit of overkill. I have thought of taking one home from work to level my equiptment but in the end I don't think it is 100% critical to be 100% level. 98% with a cheaper level will probably do.

Sean.

P.S. I may be wrong!!
Posted on: 28 February 2004 by Steve Toy
The Mana level is only 30 quid and it does the job.



Regards,

Steve.
Posted on: 28 February 2004 by David Tribe
Peter

You might look into the German made "Stabila" levels. The one that I have at home is the type 81 S. The level is a 25cm long torpedo type level, bright yellow. The Starrett is no doubt more accurate but the Stabila was about $25.00 dollars in the U.S. and would be more than suitable for your purpose.

DCT

P.S. The level also lists an order number 25010. I don't know if this is specific to the U.S. version or not.
Posted on: 29 February 2004 by Peter Stockwell
quote:
Originally posted by sean:
Peter,

While an engineers level is a fantastic instrument and may be ideal for rack setting, regardless of price it may just be a bit of overkill.
P.S. I may be wrong!!


Sean,

I've been thinking of this since a Vuksanovic thread about levelling Mana racks. You're probably right about overkill, but isn't this game about that ?

Peter

User34 at Laposte dot net
Posted on: 29 February 2004 by Markus S
Peter, the best level you can get is just about good enough when it comes to setting up a turntable. Getting the platter perfectly level helps make the sound a lot less mechanical than it often is on less well set-up 'tables.
Posted on: 29 February 2004 by Peter Stockwell
quote:
Originally posted by Markus Sauer:
Getting the platter perfectly level helps make the sound a lot less mechanical than it often is on less well set-up 'tables.


And by the sound of it you've set up more than a handful, right ? Smile

Peter

User34 at Laposte dot net
Posted on: 29 February 2004 by Markus S
Let's just say I had a learning curve.
Posted on: 29 February 2004 by P
I use an plastic Stanley torpedo level. It's 8" long and weighs exactly 120grammes.

Personally I wouldn't use a great big heavy engineers level on a sprung deck.

Rgds

P
Posted on: 29 February 2004 by Mick P
I use an plastic Stanley torpedo level. It's 8" long and weighs exactly 120grammes....P

I also use that particular implement and find it excellent.

Regards

Mick
Posted on: 29 February 2004 by Peter Stockwell
quote:
Originally posted by P:
I use an plastic Stanley torpedo level. It's 8" long and weighs exactly 120grammes.

Personally I wouldn't use a great big heavy engineers level on a sprung deck.

Rgds




And I wouldn't use a sprung deck ! Big Grin

I've got any number of builder's/carpenter's levels. They're adequate, but if you read the Vuk thread it may give you some pause for thought. I've tried to find it, but it appears that the search bicycle is in the workshop.

Peter

User34 at Laposte dot net
Posted on: 01 March 2004 by AussiePete
Peter,
you will not get a more accurate level for rack levelling than a clear piece of hose with water in it. The water can do nothing but find its own level.
Hope this helps and saves you money,
Pete
Posted on: 01 March 2004 by MarkEJ
On this occasion, I think Steven Toy is spot on. The Mana level is perfect for levelling non-sprung turntables, as it sits over the spindle and reports on how level the platter/armboard is, very accurately and with minimal fuss as it's a bubble type. Good VFM, IMHO, but as it's contact area is quite small, less usefull for timber surfaces which may undulate slightly.

Also, it is possible that those with sprung turtables will also need a conventional level to be used first, on the plinth edges. The sole plate should be as long as possible (8-12"?), since timber plinths are often not perfectly flat. The stainless top plate of an LP12 is no good as a reference surface as it's intentionally dished. I would have thought that the Starrett 98-8 would be fine for this!

It's very illuminating to level everything "spot on", and then swap levels with someone and check again... (often completely different readings) -- that's why I don't think a basic Starrett's level would be overkill.

AussiePete, your point about the water level is well made, but I'd have thought it would be quite hard to use in this context. Water tends to form a great big curved meniscus in clear hose, making accuracy challenging, to say the least.

Best;

Mark