The dreaded Wooden Floor syndrome

Posted by: tonytronic on 10 February 2002

Yep, I'm afflicted. I got a wooden floor frown . Can't swap it for a solid one, can't move house at present. The only consolation is I'm certainly not the only one razz !
So we are doomed to put up with the classic symptoms of ploddy bass, loss of pace and timing, etc..
... OR ARE WE?
Is anybody aware of some good cures?

Be it medicinal, herbal, gargle, burble or marble, I'm willing to give it a go, 'cos it's heffing up some of the best Naim attributes, namely pace & timing.
All contributions welcome...

Tonytronic. cool cool

Posted on: 10 February 2002 by David Hobbs-Mallyon
Tony

For starters, I think looking at changing your stand would do wonders for the tightening up the bass.

Secondly, I put some Rockwool insulation under my floorto improve sound insulation to the floor below, but this also tightened up the sound.

David

Posted on: 10 February 2002 by garyi
I have a flouting laminate floor, to be honest I have never had the kit on concreate so can't comment on sound quality issues. Mine sounds fine to my ears, but there again I have moved the SBLs out slightly with the recent inclusion of the 180 because the bass is a little unruley!

This seems to have sorted it out, they now reside 6-8 inches from the back wall.

The wood is on a foam layer then parque then concreate so I guess mine ain't your traditional wood surface.

Posted on: 10 February 2002 by ken c
tonytronic, if you have floor boards, you could remove them from just the area where the hifi resides and concrete fill and then finish to decor. of course this has to be ground floor.

enjoy

ken

Posted on: 10 February 2002 by kan man
Hi Tony

I have this problem too but I only found out when I got some Briks (now in storage until I move house). One option is to use speakers that don't go low enough (e.g Kans - start rolling off at 70Hz) to exite the floor. Another is to empty the room, lift the carpet and put loads of screws through the boards into the joists and if possible, provide more support to the joists from underneath. Or you could put some Mana under the speakers (not tried this myself but may well).

If you can't be arsed to do any of this, just experiment with speaker positions until you minimise the effect or try a couple of paving slabs under the stand, or see if putting the stand spikes on x head screws driven into the floor helps.

Regards
Steve

Posted on: 10 February 2002 by J.N.
Wall mounted supports?
Posted on: 10 February 2002 by J.N.
?
Posted on: 10 February 2002 by Chris Brandon
Tony,

If we are talking ordinary floor-boards/planks,then the suggestion by Kan Man of securing the floor to the joists would be my favourite - It really does work wonders for smartening up the sound & making everything generally more tuneful ! (and you hopefully get to keep your prefered speaker !)

In this situation,may I suggest the use of Brass screws as opposed to the steel veriaty & don't be shy about the amount you use !

At one point,I was condidering using Ken's idea,but having had a peep under the floor,for me,it would not have been a practical proposition due to the pipes etc running underneath.

....Not tried the paving stones approach,(but then I get enough agro at work,I don't need more when I get home big grin

For the price it may well be worth having a dabble

Regards

Chris

Posted on: 10 February 2002 by Tim Danaher
We've just carried out this mod on my Isobariks, which are standing on laminate flooring over a traditional joist / floorboard setup.We originally used long (10 cm) flat-headed Philips screws flush to the floor to anchor the spikes of the Isobarik stands. This was OK as an interim. Next step was to raise the heads of the screws by about five millimetres and rest paving slabs (concrete, about
Posted on: 10 February 2002 by Tim Danaher
[Apologies for the multiple post, but the first attempt seems to have failed...]

We've just carried out this mod on my Isobariks, which are standing on laminate flooring over a traditional joist / floorboard setup.

We originally used long (10 cm) flat-headed Philips screws flush to the floor to anchor the spikes of the Isobarik stands. This was OK as an interim. Next step was to raise the heads of the screws by about five millimetres and rest paving slabs (concrete, about £2 each from B & Q) on them. The screw heads were adjusted until the slabs were dead level and there was no play or rocking of the slabs.

Then the Isobariks and stands simply went on top of the slabs and were levelled as per usual. This resulted in a very rigid set up -- no detectable free play whatsoever. We didn't have the opportunity to make sure that the screws were going through the floor joists, but the results were very impressive all the same.

Listening, we expected the bass to tighten, and this was the case to a certain extent. But what we weren't expecting was the increase in upper mid and treble clarity -- there was bags more 'air' and refinement.

Also, when downstairs on the floor below the Isobariks, the transmitted bass 'boom' through the floorboards has diminished noticeably -- which should please the neighbours!

Considering that this mod cost four quid, it's well worth a go. I think the efficacy comes from using the raised screwheads to make sure that the slabs aren't in contact with the laminate floor underneath.

It's also now five o' clock on Monday morning, and I've just sent my brother packing after an extended listening session, brought on by these very improvements...

Cheers,

Tim

Posted on: 11 February 2002 by tonytronic
Thanks for all your handy suggestions. The wife kindly assisted with the wall mounting suggestion roll eyes . However despite several retries smile smile it made no difference to the sound wink .
Neat Vito's are an Isobaric design, and Tim D's solution with concrete slabs on top of screws seems like a damn good solution to me - maybe with a dab of Blutak on each screw head might help. Hmmm... you've got me thinking about it now.
I have a carpeted floor, so I could set the screws to support the slab such that it sits on the carpet with zero clearance, but with no actual weight on the carpet.
The carpet would then fill the 'gap' (gaps tend to be 'tuned', so damping or filling may be a good idea, yeah..?).
Also, by touching the underside of the slab, the carpet may help dampen any tendency for the slab to vibrate or 'ring' on some notes, aided by the Blutak (my sub-bass port fires downwards, which might not help).
Yep. Reckon I'll give it a go...

Thanks again y'all, I appreciate it. wink
Tonytronic. cool