Maintaining ones bicycle

quote:

My main query is what do you think is the best way of lubricating the chain. Is 3 in 1 oil ok or are these flashy aerosol cans better.

If any of you have a favourite, I would like to know.

3 in 1 is too light unless you intend lubing the chain every day. I use a wet lube because most of my mountain biking is off-road. A "dry" lube or chain wax would probably suit your sort of riding better and wouldn't need re-application very often. Once in a while using a de-greaser to clean up the entire drive system is also a good idea.

I've had good results using the "Finish Line" range of products.

GT85 is a useful water displacer and is a very light lubricant. Use this on the drivetrain after a ride, then clean off the chain with a rag and apply a small amount of a chain oil once it has dried off. The Finish Line Dry products are fine if you do not ride in the wet and they are best applied to a very thoroughly de-greased and cleaned set up, use the Cross-Country lube otherwise.

Have a look at the Wiggle website for Finish Line etc, they'll be sold at pretty much all bike shops though I'd guess.

De-grease the chain when it looks black and cloggy, also the rear derraileur and cogs.

A squirt of GT85 on the other shiny bits after a wet ride or washing the bike also protects nicely. Not on the brake pads though!

3 in 1 oil is too thin and will fly off the chain and be deposited all over the back of your bike as soon as turn a wheel.

The dry type lubes are much better as they are highly tenacious (they don't flick off) and being dry they don't attract grit and other much which if stuck to your chain would accelerate wear.

I've also had great results from Finish Line products. It's best to start with a clean, dry, degreased chain, apply the lube, leave for 10 - 15 minutes then wipe off the excess. Result? An efficient, quiet chain.

quote:

Originally posted by Bruce Woodhouse:
use the Cross-Country lube otherwise.

It's the Finish Line Cross-Country I use - couldn't remember the name earlier!

If I've been out for a muddy outing with the MTB I do the following, which only takes a few minutes:

1. Wash off the mud using a hose (not a high-pressure jetwash)
2. Spray de-greaser on the drive train and while it's working wash the rest of the bike with soapy water and a sponge. If the bike is particularily manky I might also attack the drive-train with a special little brush designed for the purpose.
3. Use the hose again to spray off the soapy water and the de-greaser. On some bikes care has to be taken with the degreaser as it can affect the finish on anodised frames and components (can't say I've ever had a problem though).
4. Spray all the drive-train components with GT85, plus the clipless pedals and shifters.
5. Lube the chain using Finish-Line cross-country and also lube the exposed cable sections with it as well.

In the winter that's a daily post-ride routine but in dryer conditions it's perhaps weekly for the MTB. For the road bike it'll be a lot less frequent - perhaps only once a month or so unless the weather has been particularily bad.

quote:

Originally posted by Stewart Platts:
3 in 1 oil is too thin and will fly off the chain and be deposited all over the back of your bike as soon as turn a wheel.

The dry type lubes are much better as they are highly tenacious (they don't flick off) and being dry they don't attract grit and other much which if stuck to your chain would accelerate wear.

I've also had great results from Finish Line products. It's best to start with a clean, dry, degreased chain, apply the lube, leave for 10 - 15 minutes then wipe off the excess. Result? An efficient, quiet chain.

Tony Blairs Sweat will do the job nicely, I bet ?

Fritz Von Peddlars and Guards mudding


N.B. As another prize hint our Mick, for your newly renovated house (rent increased accordingly no doubt ?) to stop your Ballcock & Toilet Chain chafing too much and making loud noises in the night, a dab of Anchor butter usually does the trick ! When you allow those pregnant Gypsy ladies in to use the loo, you'll now be safe in the knowledge that they won't be alarmed by any undue sounds, innit.

Gentlemen (not including barmy Fritz)

Thank you for your advice. I shall buy some finish line stuff.

Regards

Mick

Would somebody please ask Mr Parry Esq. how he gets on with that front drum brake? It looks rather like a Sturmey Archer from this distance...? Any good?

Thanks
Nime

Mick

When it requires a full service, make sure you send it to an authorised Pashley service agent.
Don’t cut costs and allow a backstreet wrench monkey to service it.

Mick without doubt that hunk of crap is giving you a hell of a workout, but have you ever considered a slightly, well better bike?

Mick,

Didn't you have one of these ?

Off road?

DS

quote:

Originally posted by garyi:
Mick without doubt that hunk of crap is giving you a hell of a workout, but have you ever considered a slightly, well better bike?

Gary mate - never criticise a mans bike. I know people who've killed for less.

Chaps

Just to answer a few questions.

Gary...The Pashley is a genuine hand assembled bicycle, it is extremely well made and very robust. The Post Office use Pashley because their bicycles can take the punishment that other makes cannot.

My model is one of their trendy versions.

The hub brakes are brilliant. If you ever care to take a look at a Post Office bicycle, you will notice that they all have hub brakes. Hubs give good stopping power on a wheel that could have 60 lbs of weight above it in the form of a basket load of envelopes as well as being ridden by some rather heavy postmen. The Hub brakes is 100% unaffected by rain. Also they are virtually maintenance free.

Fatcat

The design of a Pashley is to encourage home maintenance by virtue of its simplicity.

Regards

Mick

they carry the post here in rucksacks, this saving millions in silly nickable bikes, innit.


Fritz Von When they take over in 2007 you can keep em as a joblot for ex Rover trainees

I thought Mick's Pashley a rather fetching cross between the low rider American bicycle and the once-popular unisex bike with the twin sloping downtubes. Was the latter a Raleigh invention?

Heres's one I rode earler:

Gosh, a cycling thread - wow, getting to opine on both hifi and cycling on the same forum - this must that heaven place!

As the objective was weight loss, then it doesn't matter so much what type of bike it is, so much as actually using it as much as possible. A relativly heavy bike, such as the Pashley, will just give more of a workout!

My general cycling advice, other that also recommending the Finishline lubricants, would be to:

• make sure your tyres are blown up hard. This both makes for a faster ride and protects against punctures
  
  
• have a look at the Sustrans website and find the best quiet road routes in your area
  
  
• unless the waether is absolutly foul, then just go out when you'd planned to. I always find that cycling in rain that has come on after I have set off isn't such a problem as persuading myself to set off into rain!
  
  
• sometimes take a train (usually very easy with bikes these days) into the wind and cycling back wind propelled is a good ruse!
  
  
• you'll be surprised at how quickly your distances increase. Soon 30 miles and more won't seem that much.
  
  

.

Happy cycling

Ewan

Mick

If the bike has been sold on the basis of ease of maintenance you have been conned.

Maintenance of drum breaks is anything but simple. If you need advise on oiling a chain I doubt you would be able to service the brakes.
For a bike that will be used on the road or a footpath in good condition, you can't beat good quality side pulls for performance and ease of maintenance.
The only advantage of drum brakes over sidepulls, as you’ve said, is the fact that performance does not fall off in wet conditions.

Fatcat

Drums were chosen by Post Office Engineers because they gave the best all round performance under many different test conditions.

Changing Brake shoes is not that difficult, I have done it a few times on Motorcycles.

I know how to oil a chain, even schoolboys know how to do it, I merely wanted a recommended product.

Regards

Mick

Drums also ignore buckled wheels and have a long life between maintenance sessions. You can ride a bike with broken spokes home when fitted with drum brakes. With the same problem you cannot continue unimpeded with rim brakes and might have a very long walk home.

This works well and will not grease up your trouser leg:
white lightning

Dan

For the ultimate in fling resistance try chainsaw oil. It's the best thing I’ve found irrespective of price. The more expensive alternatives tend to be more difficult to clean off and you need to oil often and clean often.

Sir C

I would be interested in some direction regarding folding bikes. Ones that can be carried in some form of satchel and used for getting around cities etc. Ideal for taking on holidays in the back of ones car. They usually have smaller than normal wheels.
Note. I am not talking about scooters which are very good downhill.

I might try white lightning. Wiggle stocks it I see.

Lomo

I think these are the only fold up bikes to consider

Brompton

Don’t know what bikes Business Post use but you can put money on it the will be more efficient that the Post Office,
John.

Their Lilliputian railway used to be such fun though, it was actually pleasant to mount