AB1 subs with Kans?
Posted by: JWinston on 27 December 2002
Hi all,
Searched the archives to no avail, surely someone considered this--
Could the Rogers AB1 subs intended for the LS3/5a be used with Kans? Anyone tried it?
Productively procrastinating...
John
Searched the archives to no avail, surely someone considered this--
Could the Rogers AB1 subs intended for the LS3/5a be used with Kans? Anyone tried it?
Productively procrastinating...
John
Hi,
As an alternative to the AB1's you might consider building a pair of passive subwoofers. Using the instructions in David Purton's inexpensive: "The Coupled Cavity Handbook". Available from the major (English?) speaker unit/kit dealers for only £5.
Try: info@wilmslow-audio.co.uk
With 10" Seas units my subwoofers were flat down to 20Hz (100dB) (-3dB at 16Hz.) The designs are all computer optimised by a professional speaker builder of many years experience.
My cubes offered relief from the absence of bass in the Kans, in my large listening rooms. And damped the rather forward style of my early Kans. The design was (like the AB1's) intended to be an exact match to the LS3/5a & Kan. Rolling off naturally (acoustically) at the lower roll off point of the Kan without crossovers. My 20" cubes could (almost) as easily have been made into taller & narrower boxes. To support the Kans as stands if necessary.
(Provided the design volumes and port lengths were maintained). Or simply used as flower pot stands or TV supports. (In the interests of domesticity.)
But then, you asked about AB1's. So you can ignore all of the above. Unless you like realistic classical organ music, jazz doublebass, regae, techno or similar fun.
Whereas the AB1's would not offer much in the way of real fundamentals. But would (from the reviews I've read in HiFi News etc) add a little more "body" to the Kans' presentation.
Whether you like the difference with (any) subwoofers is a matter of taste. I quickly found I could not live with my Kans without the subwoofers. They are simply wired in parallel with the Kans.
I made mine a "mirror" pair and "played" with various positions in the room. Usually they were best just behind the Kans on their stands. With the subs' bass ports well away from the floor.
The important part is that the subs must not draw attention to themselves. I always thought that running the subs in parallel with the Kans ironed out any peaks in the Kans response.
Best regards,
Nime
Everyone has the right to be wrong.
As an alternative to the AB1's you might consider building a pair of passive subwoofers. Using the instructions in David Purton's inexpensive: "The Coupled Cavity Handbook". Available from the major (English?) speaker unit/kit dealers for only £5.
Try: info@wilmslow-audio.co.uk
With 10" Seas units my subwoofers were flat down to 20Hz (100dB) (-3dB at 16Hz.) The designs are all computer optimised by a professional speaker builder of many years experience.
My cubes offered relief from the absence of bass in the Kans, in my large listening rooms. And damped the rather forward style of my early Kans. The design was (like the AB1's) intended to be an exact match to the LS3/5a & Kan. Rolling off naturally (acoustically) at the lower roll off point of the Kan without crossovers. My 20" cubes could (almost) as easily have been made into taller & narrower boxes. To support the Kans as stands if necessary.
(Provided the design volumes and port lengths were maintained). Or simply used as flower pot stands or TV supports. (In the interests of domesticity.)But then, you asked about AB1's. So you can ignore all of the above. Unless you like realistic classical organ music, jazz doublebass, regae, techno or similar fun.
Whereas the AB1's would not offer much in the way of real fundamentals. But would (from the reviews I've read in HiFi News etc) add a little more "body" to the Kans' presentation.
Whether you like the difference with (any) subwoofers is a matter of taste. I quickly found I could not live with my Kans without the subwoofers. They are simply wired in parallel with the Kans.
I made mine a "mirror" pair and "played" with various positions in the room. Usually they were best just behind the Kans on their stands. With the subs' bass ports well away from the floor.
The important part is that the subs must not draw attention to themselves. I always thought that running the subs in parallel with the Kans ironed out any peaks in the Kans response.
Best regards,
Nime
Everyone has the right to be wrong.