Unusual question about Kan's

quote:

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Originally posted by mathew farley:
Does anyone know what the internal volume is of the linn kan box in litres?

And is there anything else inside the box apart from air?

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16 x 28 x 13 cm = 5.8 litres.

There are damping pads on all sides so you can probably deduct 25mm from both width and height. The baffle fixing baton is about 12 or 18mm square section. The crossover isn't much in volume so can probably be ignored. But the magnets do take up some room.
I'd upload images of the interior/units/crossovers if I could remember how the hell to do it. Check back throgh the archives for my images related to my conversion to spherical containers for the Kan units.
I have to get back to work now so I'll try to upload some images later.

I think you would be safe using 4.3 litres as as the internal volume.

Nime

Everyone has the right to be wrong.

Kan crossover as promised

Nime

Everyone has the right to be wrong.

Kan baffle showing units/magnets

Nime

Everyone has the right to be wrong.

Mathew,
Apart from the gubbins in the uploaded images there's a loose wad of black, long hair wool. At least I think that's what it's called.

May one ask why were you asking about the Kan's volume and contents?

Nime

Everyone has the right to be wrong.

Hi Nime,

Cheers for the info and pictures.

I've been thinking about building some sealed box speakers, so i've been searching some of the diy audio forums to try and learn about subject. Because my favourite speaker is the mk 2 Linn Kan i thought i'd try and learn a bit more about it.

From what i've learnt so far the "QTC" of a speaker is mainly affected by box size, Maximum flat frequency response is Qtc 0.7 but for speed/transient response the Qtc must be 0.5.

I selected the Kef b110 bass driver in a free software program called WinISD and gave it a 5 litre box the Qtc came out at 0.74 but to get maximum speed/transient response it needed a 15 litre box.

In a 15 litre box bass rolls off much earlier but goes deeper than the 5 litre box from about 80Hz to 20Hz.
In the 15 litre box the -6dB point is about 61Hz and in the 5 litre box the -6dB point is 67Hz.

I may have got something wrong because i'm still learning but if im right the kan could be made to go even faster and with a bit more depth.

Where's James the resident speaker expert?

Matt

Mathew,
"The Coupled Cavity Handbook" by David Purton quotes the efficiency figures for the Kan as 82dB per watt. His response graph shows the -3dB point as 78-79Hz. I confirmed the latter with a frequency generator (via an A&R A60) on my early Kans. My 48cm cube 10" SEAS subwoofers (built to the design in the booklet) had a -3dB point of 16Hz!
The smaller the speaker the lower the efficiency and the lower the maximum sound pressure. The Kans don't like to go much over 105dB whatever you feed it with. I think I saw 108-110 dB when testing in parellel with the subwoofers. But you'd be lucky to get that without hitting the end stops on real music.
As I became ever more irritated by the absence of imagary I started to experiment with the units out of the Kan enclosures. I liked the original bass Kan units best in 10" diameter spherical (plastic fishing float) enclosures with between 8 & 10 litres volume. I adjusted volume with polythene wrapped sand bags. The tweeters sat above the bass enclosures in smaller (sandfilled) polycarbonate globes designed for outside lights.
Once enjoyed it was impossible to go back to the original Kan enclosures because they sounded so closed in, nazal and boxy. ;-)
Good luck with your design ideas. Given a free choice there is really no need to make the enclosures as small as possible. The Kan is a freak IMHO. It works, but at great cost to the bass & imagary. Most of what is heard below 100Hz is simply psychoacoustics and room reinforcement

Nime

Everyone has the right to be wrong.