Music work mains block

Yeah me too, I've used a MW block for 18 months with standard Naim mains leads.

I do have a separate spur (albeit only one 6mm) with 3 crabtree unswitched double sockets and I concur with all your findings (except I've yet to try the Dyson into it )

I had heard that the plug order into the block made a difference to the sound, as did using the left or the right socket on the double wall socket. I also heard that not plugging in the power amp into the block but into a separate socket made a difference. I did do the comparison but found the difference to be minimal if at all.

I also tried a Hydra (slightly worse than using the 3 double wall sockets) and an Audio Counsel block (very forward and exciting but preferred the presentation of the MW)

Kevin,

do you have an email address or website for whoever makes/sells these? How do I get one?

Rich J

quote:

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Originally posted by alexgerrard:
Honestly. They make a big (and positive) difference.

Alex

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I really don't like it. I reckon a Grahams Hydra is much better.

Kevin,
do you have an email address or website for whoever makes/sells these? How do I get one?
Rich J

Rich

I ordered mine through my local dealer, Oranges & Lemons in South London. But I think they are distributed by the Quadrapsire people.

When i get home from he football tonight I will have a look at the instruction book and post the contact details for you.

Kevin

Kevin , thanks.

If ANYONE knows how I can get such a thing with 110V please speak up. Otherwise I'll see if Music works could make one to order.

Rich J.

I've used one for well over two years now and I'm more than happy with the way it opens up the midband and generally plays the tune.

Yes you do need the leads as well - they bring even more harmonic detail to the musical party.

Dev,

Try one again now that you have Hutter instead of Mana.

They are made by the Audio Works people in Cheadle. Go on the classified sections of Pink Fish forum and you'll see them.

http://63.99.108.232/forum/index.php?s=



Regards,

Steve.

Does anybody prefer the Hydra/Musicworks/OtherThing to pairs of mains sockets?

Rather than buying off the shelf, I've been through a few iterations of making mains blocks and cables, and have now settled on a hydra that I've made.
It is fairly amazing the effect that mains cables can have on the sound coming out of the speakers!

Paul Rowlands

I'm with Dev on this one. I hated it, although if someone is suffering from severe RFI, then maybe it might work. I found the Grahams Hydra more to my liking. However, multiple spurs with hard-wired hydras are my preferred option now.

David

My findings totally align with Dev's.

Best mod was installing a spur, follwed by the hydra followed by the Musicworks block.

Regards

Mick

quote:

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Originally posted by Steven Toy:
I've used one for well over two years now and I'm more than happy with the way it opens up the midband and generally plays the tune.

Yes you do need the leads as well - they bring even more harmonic detail to the musical party.

Dev,

Try one again now that you have Hutter instead of Mana.

They are made by the Audio Works people in Cheadle. Go on the classified sections of Pink Fish forum and you'll see them.

http://63.99.108.232/forum/index.php?s=



Regards,

Steve.

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Steve,

I don't use Hutter anymore and I have yet to find a better solution than a hydra. I have multiple spurs that I can use, but I find the results with those very hifi (i.e unaturally dynamic).

Dev

quote:

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I have multiple spurs that I can use, but I find the results with those very hifi (i.e unaturally dynamic).

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A closet Yank....alright Dev! We've got Bud on ice and a BBQ sammich waitin' for ya Dev.

ya'll take care now,

dave

I must admit that I'd been thinking about this 1 fuse compared to several that you've mentioned above, PR (Whats your 1st name?), but got put off putting it on the mains spur debarcle ....
Personally I will go with the multiple sockets in the wall way when the spur is fitted...
I use a kimber mains block which I found was a big improvement on the one previously being used, but I purchased this some 4 1/2 years ago now, and had not heard of the MW block back then...

Uh-oh, here we go again.
To fuse or not to fuse, that is the question.
Whether its nobler to have great sounds or suffer the flash and boom of outrageous voltage.
(soz, Will :-)!)

Paul Rowlands

from my limited understanding, a hydra is about the closest you can get to actually soldering the mains leads to the supply. although mine is a grahams one, its an easy enough DIY job, provided of course you know what you are doing and are careful -- same care as wiring a mains plug.

my hydra works well -- i.e. i am not aware of its limitations. i have a single 6mm sq spur.

sometimes, i feel we blame mains when the problem is actually elsewhere...


enjoy...

ken

[This message was edited by ken c on MONDAY 06 October 2003 at 21:26.]

quote:

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Originally posted by PR:
"sometimes, i feel we blame mains when the problem is actually elsewhere..."


I agree! It's like blaming the bed for having bad sex. lol

Its got more to do with the equipment, but a good bed helps, right!

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ha ha ha ... couldnt have put it better...

enjoy...

ken

“Not when using the Hydra with a 15A plug into 15A sockets. 15A plugs contain no fuses and, with their round-pin design, give superior contact into the bargain.”

15A plugs without fuses need to be fused at 15A back at the consumer unit.
These sockets hark back to the days prior to the 30A ring circuit and were fitted on the end of radial-wired cables, each being fused at 15A back at the meter cupboard.

If you run a 6mm spur and fuse it at 30A then you need to use 13A fused plugs in order to fully protect the individual flex’s from the plugs to the pieces of kit.

For years now I’ve used two 6mm radial circuits terminating on double unswitched MK sockets and protected by 32A MCB’s in preference to fuses. The 13A plug fuses were replaced by 15A fuse wire soldered into each plug. The power amps gulp current from one circuit while the preamp and CD player sip it from the other. It’s never a good idea (IMHO) to have your greedy noisy power amp(s) share the same feed as the delicate source equipment.

Mr Tibbs

To my ears, everything from one Hydra is good.
Whether splitting source & power components to separate spurs improves on that, I don't know (though they do say Lingos should be kept apart).
What effect does that have on earthing?
On fuses, I'm dubious about using higher amp fuses. At this point in life I'll take the audio hit and stick to 13A.

Paul Rowlands

quote:

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I also heard that not plugging in the power amp into the block but into a separate socket made a difference. I did do the comparison but found the difference to be minimal if at all.

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I've just tried this. You are indeed correct -the difference is minimal other than the soundstage getting much bigger, and soundstaging is irrelevant, is it not?



Regards,

Steve.

How is soundstaging irrelevant?!?

PR - LOL!

“I agree, and have a similar set-up myself. How about having a separate feed for each component? I've been thinking about this for a while, as it seems logical there would be notable benefits adopting this approach. I run an LP12/Ittok/Troika/Geddon/Prefix/Hi-cap/52/ Supercap/250 into SBLs and use a CDS/XPS for CD replay. I'd love to hear the difference a separate power feed for the PSUs and power amp would make. I’m in the process of redecorating a new house and I intend to have a dedicated room for listening to music, so now would be the time to do it. Any thoughts?”

Jamie,
Many moons ago I installed a single 6mm 30A radial circuit which served all my gear and definitely did improve the sound compared to having everything fed off the existing ring circuit. Later though I reckoned the power amps might be better off on their own circuit as they were probably ‘dirtying’ the supply to the other components. As an experiment I simply unplugged the power amps from the radial circuit and plugged them back into the 30A ring circuit. The improvement was quite noticeable so I went ahead and installed another 30A radial circuit just for the power amps.

I haven’t tried it but there should be some mileage in installing a third radial circuit so that the preamp could be separated away from the source components.

Mr Tibbs